hello from northern california

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

genxJohn67

Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2025
Messages
7
Location
roseville, ca
hello all, looking forward to learning here. i'm brand new to this, haven't even tried to turn my first pen. i'm going to start with wood -- i'm thinking a single barrel with a rollerball nose cone. i don't like the idea of dealing with springs -- and i do prefer rollerballs.

my goal is to 3d print my own caps and clips. i've been scouring but can't find anyplace selling just nose cones that don't cost a fortune.

so if you could point me in the right direction to talk about good kits for beginners, and maybe some sources for those cones i'd appreciate it.

glad to be here, thanks for welcoming me aboard.

cheers.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Greetings from Nebraska and welcome to the IAP Community. I prefer the rollerball styles too as far as personal use pens go, but I prefer gel type ink, so I usually trade the rollerball refill out for a Blue, Bold, Pilot G2 Gel ink refill. I have found it to be just as cost effective to buy entire Pilot G2 pens from retail just to get the refill out of them than buying only the refills online.

Although it sounds like you are looking more towards going kit-less, you might want to consider starting out by making a few kits. If so, there are a few lower cost rollerball style kits that like to use. They include:

The PSI Rollester Rollerball which cost in the $6 to $8 range depending on plating options. The Rollester kit uses a common 3/8 drill bit. The only issue I have had with the Rollester is that the caps snap on and sometimes look a little crooked (to me anyway).

The Eco Zen overcomes the "snap-on" cap alignment issue by using a ring magnet that holds the cap on. It is the economy version of the more expensive Zen kit with a cost of about $9 compared to the Dayacom Zen Rollerball kits that are in the $19 range. The Dayacom kits are generally better quality; however, not twice the quality in my opinion. That and I can get the Eco's with more plating options. The Zen pens have a little larger diameter than the Rollester and require a 10.5mm drill bit.

And finally, there is the PSI Magnetic Graduate which takes the Zen up a notch. Unlike the Rollester and Zen that have a pre-made cap, the Magnetic Graduate uses two tubes, one for the body and one for the cap. The cost is $15 to $16 depending on the plating option. Like the Zen, the Magnetic Graduate uses a 10.5mm drill bit for the body, but it needs a 12.5mm drill bit for the magnetic cap.

William Wood-Write also has a small rollerball kit that I like called the Snap Cap Rollerball. They are similar in design to the Rollester with a "snap-on" cap, but they are slimmer, using an 8mm drill bit. They cost $7 to $8 CAD (currently about $5 US). In addition to the more common plating options they are also available in purple and red.

So, I guess my recommendation would be to start with the Eco Zen or the Snap Cap depending on whether you prefer a smaller, slimmer pen style. If you are more confident and want to start with something a little more upscale with two tubes, I would give the Magnetic Graduate a go. And of course, there is always the kit-less option, but as it sounds like you are finding out, locating and buying individual pen components rather than a kit can be more difficult.

Regardless of how you choose to get started, you have come to the right place to get input. The members on IAP have an amazing and diverse skill set and are always willing to help out however we can.

Regards,
Dave
 
Greetings from Nebraska and welcome to the IAP Community. I prefer the rollerball styles too as far as personal use pens go, but I prefer gel type ink, so I usually trade the rollerball refill out for a Blue, Bold, Pilot G2 Gel ink refill. I have found it to be just as cost effective to buy entire Pilot G2 pens from retail just to get the refill out of them than buying only the refills online.

Although it sounds like you are looking more towards going kit-less, you might want to consider starting out by making a few kits. If so, there are a few lower cost rollerball style kits that like to use. They include:

The PSI Rollester Rollerball which cost in the $6 to $8 range depending on plating options. The Rollester kit uses a common 3/8 drill bit. The only issue I have had with the Rollester is that the caps snap on and sometimes look a little crooked (to me anyway).

The Eco Zen overcomes the "snap-on" cap alignment issue by using a ring magnet that holds the cap on. It is the economy version of the more expensive Zen kit with a cost of about $9 compared to the Dayacom Zen Rollerball kits that are in the $19 range. The Dayacom kits are generally better quality; however, not twice the quality in my opinion. That and I can get the Eco's with more plating options. The Zen pens have a little larger diameter than the Rollester and require a 10.5mm drill bit.

And finally, there is the PSI Magnetic Graduate which takes the Zen up a notch. Unlike the Rollester and Zen that have a pre-made cap, the Magnetic Graduate uses two tubes, one for the body and one for the cap. The cost is $15 to $16 depending on the plating option. Like the Zen, the Magnetic Graduate uses a 10.5mm drill bit for the body, but it needs a 12.5mm drill bit for the magnetic cap.

William Wood-Write also has a small rollerball kit that I like called the Snap Cap Rollerball. They are similar in design to the Rollester with a "snap-on" cap, but they are slimmer, using an 8mm drill bit. They cost $7 to $8 CAD (currently about $5 US). In addition to the more common plating options they are also available in purple and red.

So, I guess my recommendation would be to start with the Eco Zen or the Snap Cap depending on whether you prefer a smaller, slimmer pen style. If you are more confident and want to start with something a little more upscale with two tubes, I would give the Magnetic Graduate a go. And of course, there is always the kit-less option, but as it sounds like you are finding out, locating and buying individual pen components rather than a kit can be more difficult.

Regardless of how you choose to get started, you have come to the right place to get input. The members on IAP have an amazing and diverse skill set and are always willing to help out however we can.

Regards,
Dave
thanks for the great advice. i like the g2 idea for the future. i've got the magnetic graduate in my cart. i really like the look of it -- and i have an unhealthy obsession with magnets 🤪. i'm going to spend the extra buck for the gold. any opinion on what wood or wood stain combo might look best with gold? looking forward to being part of this group. cheers
 
thanks for the great advice. i like the g2 idea for the future. i've got the magnetic graduate in my cart. i really like the look of it -- and i have an unhealthy obsession with magnets 🤪. i'm going to spend the extra buck for the gold. any opinion on what wood or wood stain combo might look best with gold? looking forward to being part of this group. cheers
I'm sure that opinions on what looks good with gold plating are extremely diverse across the membership of IAP, so I can only speak about my personal preferences and taste so please consider that there are no right answers. Anyhow, here goes....

I have made lots of pens with gold plated kits using a bunch of different species of wood. I think they paired well with everything, but when I look across them, my personal preference is more towards the brown to brown-tannish colors like one would find in Bocote, Olive, and Ambrosia Maple along with the tannish burls like Sindora, Pyinma and Brown Mallee.

I think the brown to brown-reddish woods look nicer on antique bronze or antique copper types of plating. Woods like Bloodwood, Cocobolo, Desert Ironwood and reddish burls like Amboyna, Redwood Lace and Red Mallee.

Although I am in the process of making one right now on a brass Apollo rollerball kit from Bullseye Turning, I have made very few brass or gold plated pens with "non-wood" blanks. Most of the colorful ones I have made I put on gunmetal, antique silver, or chrome plated kits. I also think most wood species also look good on these as well. The one I am making on the brass kit right now is from a blank I called Ruddy Brown. It is a mostly brown with a little rust and a little red pigment that I cast just a week ago. There is a picture of the blank in this post: First Cast in New Mold.

So, there you have it. I would also recommend that you browse through the "Photos", "SOYP Image Mirror" section here on IAP just to see all of the various woods, colors, and plating combinations that members here have made and posted about to see what combinations you find most appealing.

Best Regards,
Dave
 
Back
Top Bottom