Has anyone done a 2 layer cast with Liquid Diamonds

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jttheclockman

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Another Liquid Diamonds question:
Has anyone done a 2 layered pour with liquid diamonds?? I have done with PR but would like to try with LD. If so could you explain what you did if you were successful and what you found to not work well. How long to let first layer to set so you can add second layer?? Can you cast objects between layers??? Can you color LD and with what??? Does LD stick well to itself??? Thanks in advance.
 
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Liquid Diamonds is an epoxy. Epoxies can be multi-layered, and most manufacturers recommend doing multi-layers in a thick cast. There is a window between pours that allows the epoxy to set, but not cure, so a bond is achieved. Otherwise, sanding the surface is recommended. I prefer a chemical bond over a mechanical bond.
Be sure to read the manufacturer's recommendations on using their product, as epoxies can vary.
Objects can be embedded as well.
Epoxies can also be colored. Some manufacturers have specific additives, or will recommend products, but any powdered colorant should work.
If using a dispersion, a solvent based is most likely recommended.
 
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The first layer is about 1" colored blue and the second is about 3/4" tinted blue poured after 3 to 3 and 1/2 hours. table.jpg

table 1.jpg
 
i use West System opaque pigment with the epoxy resin i use which is similar to LD. for transparent colors i use tints from Artresin.
 
i use West System opaque pigment with the epoxy resin i use which is similar to LD. for transparent colors i use tints from Artresin.


Thanks, would you happen to have a link to these tints?? Also could you explain a little about how you go about your procedure. If you do multiple castings what time frame do you have between applications and if casting objects sandwiched in between what is time frame and do you use pressure at any time. ???
 
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I don't have links handy but if you type in "System Three pigment" and "Artresin" on Amazon, you'll find it. I meant to say system three and not west system in my last post.
I'm not a pen turner or do much casting but I use Artresin for my epoxy-it's the only one that has a specific type of UV inhibitor. All epoxy resins marketed as clear have some UV protection but will eventually yellow. That's the reason I use Artresin and not LD. I have poured castings though that were about 1.5" thick. I did this to test various dyes and machinability of the resin.
As far as time frame, you can pour another layer on top as long as it's within 24 hours of previous layer. After that, the previous layer must be abraded. It fully cures in 3 days.
When I do cast stuff I do use a pressure pot because it's just the smart way to go-saves so many headaches with bubbles.
Here's a couple of projects that I've done with epoxy resin. In each, all the colors were poured into cavities/grooves that I routed. The cavities are about 3/8 thick so that I'd have plenty of depth of epoxy as these projects were passed thru my planer.
Both are coffee tables-one's a surfboard and the other is a corndog. After planing, they were covered with 3 clear layers of the same resin and bubbles are easily removed with careful use of a torch. The long open time means I can mix one large batch and dye it as needed without having to worry about it starting to kick over.
 

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