Hang tags, stick-um tags?

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Woodchipper

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Mar 15, 2017
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Found some some small hang tags as Staples for my pens. I could enter price and a number to record the style and blank; not doing a high volume to need a spreadsheet. So far, so good. My question: what do you use for price tags for wood turnings? Self adhesive tags? How do tags stick to finishes on turnings? Thanks.
We have a local craft mall that collects all taxes. Rent at last inquiry was $40 a month, three months in advance. Has good traffic, outdoor seasonal shows as well. Your thoughts and advice are most welcome.
 
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I've been researching this a bit recently and here are some things I've found on the forums. These are mostly copied from my notes (trying to swap markdown syntax for this bb syntax). I don't have links to all the original sources which I need to update too:

- Strings on the pen
- Barbell tags (source). Can get fancy with a Dymo Printer and their barbell tags (not cheap though, like $400 all in. Potentially cheaper through ebay)
- Clear boxes (keeps pens in the tube, out of peoples hands), paper insert with price (example)
- Clear brother label on a 1" section of clear drinking straw placed on the clip (source) or clear avery small return address labels. Might need a bit of Krylon Preserve It to keep them from separating.
- Avery address labels on the pen body then hand polished with a jeweler's cloth
 
Yeah, we use small jewelry tags with the strings for pens. Came up with a system/code that gives the material/kit/plating info so I can track what sells well.

For other woodworking stuff, we by sheets of small stick on labels. Think mailing labels only much smaller. They work relatively well but do come off over time especially on cutting boards that have our board butter finish on them.
 
Yeah, we use small jewelry tags with the strings for pens. Came up with a system/code that gives the material/kit/plating info so I can track what sells well.

For other woodworking stuff, we by sheets of small stick on labels. Think mailing labels only much smaller. They work relatively well but do come off over time especially on cutting boards that have our board butter finish on them.
Mind sharing the tracking system? That is what I had in mind. Inquiring mind wants to know.
 
Although I don't sell pens, I do keep track of them, ID (Serial Number), style, blank material, and I even assign a value (Price?) primarily based on my estimation of the rarity of the materials and the overall finished appearance - maybe it's more of a rating system of how much I value the pen more than anything.

The ID number is my key into an Excel spreadsheet where I store the specifics of the build, the date, materials, notes, the drawer and slot I have it stored in, and such.

I tried the string tie labels and I didn't like them because they don't fit in my storage drawers very well - they get tangled with adjacent pens. I also tried using the barbell labels but the one's I had were not computer printable so all I could get on them was the ID number. That and I struggled getting the sides aligned when installing them.

So, ultimately I wound up printing the ID number, the value, the style, and the blank material information on half of a return address label (they are 1.75" x 0.5" - Avery #8167 or Online Labels OL25 and apply it by rolling it around a 3/4" piece of plastic drinking straw. Then I simply slip the straw onto the clip. It is compact and still contains more information than just an ID number. As for ID numbers, I just use a serial number with no embedded information. I like it because it is compact, easily installed or removed, and doesn't leave any kind of sticky residue behind.

Here is a screen capture of one of the labels (I use an older version of Microsoft Publisher and just print them on my inkjet printer). The fonts are 7 point for the ID number, 8 point for the Value, and 6 point for the pen type and blank material.

Dave

Pen Clip Label.PNG
IMG_4939.JPG
IMG_4940.JPG
IMG_4941.JPG
 
Although I don't sell pens, I do keep track of them, ID (Serial Number), style, blank material, and I even assign a value (Price?) primarily based on my estimation of the rarity of the materials and the overall finished appearance - maybe it's more of a rating system of how much I value the pen more than anything.

The ID number is my key into an Excel spreadsheet where I store the specifics of the build, the date, materials, notes, the drawer and slot I have it stored in, and such.

I tried the string tie labels and I didn't like them because they don't fit in my storage drawers very well - they get tangled with adjacent pens. I also tried using the barbell labels but the one's I had were not computer printable so all I could get on them was the ID number. That and I struggled getting the sides aligned when installing them.

So, ultimately I wound up printing the ID number, the value, the style, and the blank material information on half of a return address label (they are 1.75" x 0.5" - Avery #8167 or Online Labels OL25 and apply it by rolling it around a 3/4" piece of plastic drinking straw. Then I simply slip the straw onto the clip. It is compact and still contains more information than just an ID number. As for ID numbers, I just use a serial number with no embedded information. I like it because it is compact, easily installed or removed, and doesn't leave any kind of sticky residue behind.

Here is a screen capture of one of the labels (I use an older version of Microsoft Publisher and just print them on my inkjet printer). The fonts are 7 point for the ID number, 8 point for the Value, and 6 point for the pen type and blank material.

Dave

View attachment 382449
View attachment 382450
View attachment 382451
View attachment 382452
I like your method. But what do you do for pens without clips?
 
That's something I haven't tackled yet. I just started making Apollo kits and haven't even thought about how I was going to label them. Hmmmm
Dave, your level of organization constantly amazes me.

This is a brilliant idea. You'll just need to go get some of those giant candy filled straws, get rid of pixie dust and slip those over your clipless pens
 
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