Handle for a Honey Extractor

[JonathanF1968]

Here is my crappy, no-name brand honey extractor. Long ago, before i owned it, the handle went messing. It goes in the near (out of focus) hole on the green thing. To crank the honey, you spin the absent handle around, to create a centrifuge effect.

I've been using a big metal spike in place of the handle, which is a serviceable but also dreadful solution, in part because it is chewing up the plastic. (It is also painful to use. What I really want to do is turn a handle. My question is, what hardware would I attach to the handle I turn?

The hole is about 1/4 inch diameter and .56 inches deep.

I feel like the right solution should involve some sort of ring inside that hole with ball bearings in it, and then a rod that screws into the handle from underneath. That seems likely to protect that precious green piece of plastic. If that green thing breaks, honestly, the whole contraption might be toast. It is not a fine piece of equipment...

Any thoughts about an effective way to fix this?

I guess, my question is, what are the technical names for the parts that I need here, and is there anything surprising about how to put it all together.

 

[MRDucks2]

In all honesty, I would see if I could find a nylon bushing with as close to the same OD as the ID of the hole, size it's length to the thickness of the plastic, get nylon washers for both the bottom and top, get a pan head screw or a bolt the length needed for the handle to attach to the assembly and run the bolt/machine screw all the way though the length of the handle.

All those parts except the handle would be available at either my Lowe's or local hardware store, costing only a few dollars all together.


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[GraiDawg]

have you considered turning a handle?

 

[JonathanF1968]

In all honesty, I would see if I could find a nylon bushing with as close to the same OD as the ID of the hole, size it's length to the thickness of the plastic, get nylon washers for both the bottom and top, get a pan head screw or a bolt the length needed for the handle to attach to the assembly and run the bolt/machine screw all the way though the length of the handle.

All those parts except the handle would be available at either my Lowe's or local hardware store, costing only a few dollars all together.


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Thanks for this. How would you set the bolt into the handle? Or just all the way through and a nut on the bottom?

@GraiDawg Yes, I'll turn the handle. The question is about how to attach the handle that I turn.

 

[MRDucks2]

I would go all the way with the nut in the bottom.


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[randyrls]

Is the Hole threaded? IF not,
Use a long (5"?) 1/4" hex head bolt that is only partially threaded. Then turn a handle the length of the bolt with a 1/4" hole in it. Larger "relief" divit hole at the top to recess the hex head of the bolt at the top. This allows the handle to spin on the shaft of the bolt. Put a nut at the top and bottom with removable loctite. Tighten these down. This is a fairly common arrangement on machine tool handles like lathe tail stock handles. Hmmm.... I remember there was a place that sold handles and wheels, but don't remember the name...

 

[JonathanF1968]

Is the Hole threaded? IF not,
Use a long (5"?) 1/4" hex head bolt that is only partially threaded. Then turn a handle the length of the bolt with a 1/4" hole in it. Larger "relief" divit hole at the top to recess the hex head of the bolt at the top. This allows the handle to spin on the shaft of the bolt. Put a nut at the top and bottom with removable loctite. Tighten these down. This is a fairly common arrangement on machine tool handles like lathe tail stock handles. Hmmm.... I remember there was a place that sold handles and wheels, but don't remember the name...

Ah, so it doesn't move in the plastic, it moves in the wood... interesting....

(The hole is not threaded.)

 

[MRDucks2]

Correct, hole is not threaded.


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[JonathanF1968]

There is a complicating factor. The blue housing for this thing is very close to the end of the green arm, to the point that if there is any protrusion from the bottom—even a carriage bolt (as shown)—it bumps when the thing spins. A nut would make it unworkable. So I need a solution that will be flat against it.

Curious....

 

[JonathanF1968]

OK, I think I've got it good enough. A small nut just barely clears the blue lump.... I'll put it to the test later today. Thanks for weighing in!

 

[MRDucks2]

Looks like the carriage bolt would clear if pulled up against the plastic of the gear arm. Grind the corners of the square under the bolt head slightly for a better fit. The way you have looks like it works, too.

By the way, the nylon parts I indicated were only to help minimize wear on the plastic piece.


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[JonathanF1968]

The carriage bolt does bump even if it is flush. And I did grind down those corners.

The nut is also bumping slightly, though it is usable. I might try to find a smaller bolt.

But I was able to extract my honey, and nothing is permanently destroyed, so I'm calling it a win. Thanks for your help!

 

[Curly]

A countersunk screw/bolt epoxied in would be flush and bumpless.