Guitar Casting (Help!)

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Pen_Turner_Dan

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I have this interesting piece of wood that I had turned into a guitar body. But the one issue is that is has a chunk missing due to bark etc... that is where the jack was going to go for the guitar, anyone here know if you can fill it with clear resin (it looks so cool) and still be able to clear coat the guitar/install wiring? Here's a picture.

Also, is there anyone that is sure they CAN do it? I am looking for a professional to do such a deed. And would the wiring and routing have to be done first, then resin. :) any information helps. :)
 

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Clear Alumalite is good for adhesion to wood. It tends to work better than most other resins, especially since you want a non-amber finish. Curtis is still the best at IAP with that stuff.

There are some clear epoxy materials, but they tend to be on the softer side.

You may be able to clear cast the whole face and polish that out. Should be neat.

Call Curtis
 
I don't know much about Alumalite,I know that it has great adhesion properties but in case of a string instrument there is great tension from the string that you must consider.Research it is my best advice,Don't want to tune a work of art to find out the materials did not hold up to the tension of the strings.Just my $.002 :)
 
Problem with using epoxies will be they tend to be on the yellow tint and some turn darker yellower or brown with age and exposure to UV ray's even bounced light.

You may want to think about making arrangements for the wire and and electronics to be loose inside so they can be repaired/replaced in the future if needed.
:clown:
 
It does look neat but I would add some blue with a little pearl-x. I think the effect would be awesome looking. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Had to look on a ruler to see how 1 cm is. Maybe bore through the side and pin it.

Or if you do cast it put something in the resin so it is visible, coins, roach clip, casino chips etc.
 
Anyone that does a bit of casting using Alumilite, can do such a simple job. If the wood is dry and spotlessly clean, casting with crystal clear resin is a breeze and something that I would have no hesitation in offer to do but, I'm a long way away and that would be a expensive exercise in shipping cost that can be perfectly voided.

I also tend to agree with you on going for the clear resin, it will look great...!

Good luck...!

Cheers
George
 
robutacion said:
Anyone that does a bit of casting using Alumilite, can do such a simple job. If the wood is dry and spotlessly clean, casting with crystal clear resin is a breeze and something that I would have no hesitation in offer to do but, I'm a long way away and that would be a expensive exercise in shipping cost that can be perfectly voided.

I also tend to agree with you on going for the clear resin, it will look great...!

Good luck...!

Cheers
George
Click to expand...

Thank you! You were very helpful along with everyone else. I shall post the final pics, however this is a work in progress I am estimating another year due to college.

Anyway, anyone in New Jersey or Penn that is up for the job? And if I were to clearcoat nitris finish the guitar after, will the resin conflict with the guitar finish?

Thanks
 
Has far as I know, if the resin is fully cured (about 14 days), you should have no problems however, that would be a test that you could do quite easily by putting some of the nitris finish over a cast Alumilite pen blank off cut that any of the guys near you will have by the dozens.

Coat it and put it a side for some time, you will see what it does...!

Cheers
George
 
The only problem I see is the size. Most people here that cast alumilite use a pressure pot. Maybe it can be done without pressure. That would also be a question for Curtis
 
I am a guitar player, but not a luthier or guitar craftsman.

Where did you envision the jack for the guitar cable going?
There are a lot of options, you know.

Anywhere from the butt-end of the guitar (the six o'clock position, if the neck-mounting location is the 12 o'clock position) all the way around to the four o'clock position.
IF you want to mount the jack to the outer circumference of the axe, that is.

If you are willing to go Fender-Stratocaster-style, then you can mount a beveled, recessed jack on the front face of the guitar, anywhere on the lower right side, below the bridge.

I would shy away from building a synthetic material foundation for the jack.
It would take away from the natural beauty of the instrument.
That's just my aesthetic opinion, of course.

Outstanding+Custom+Guitars4.jpg
 
Sparky2 said:
I am a guitar player, but not a luthier or guitar craftsman.

Where did you envision the jack for the guitar cable going?
There are a lot of options, you know.

Anywhere from the butt-end of the guitar (the six o'clock position, if the neck-mounting location is the 12 o'clock position) all the way around to the four o'clock position.
IF you want to mount the jack to the outer circumference of the axe, that is.

If you are willing to go Fender-Stratocaster-style, then you can mount a beveled, recessed jack on the front face of the guitar, anywhere on the lower right side, below the bridge.

I would shy away from building a synthetic material foundation for the jack.
It would take away from the natural beauty of the instrument.
That's just my aesthetic opinion, of course.

Outstanding+Custom+Guitars4.jpg
Click to expand...

Holy molly mate, you have a rat plague in your place, look what they did to your guitar...??? looks like a Swiss cheese now...!:eek::biggrin::wink:

Seriously man, that is the wickedest guitar I ever saw...! does it play OK, tough...!

Geezzz, talking about thinking out of the box...!:eek::rolleyes::)

Cheers
George
 
While pic #2 would look cool, it would be a pain to plug and unplug on stage in the dark. I think the safe bet is #4
 
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