Gorrilla Glue coming apart.

[teamtexas]

Ok, so when you say you can use Gorrilla Glue I assume your not talking about this one.


I've done a bunch of segmenting this weekend and this stuff is coming apart everytime I turn around. My thick CA seems to be holding much better. I think I want to try some of the Loctite 5 min epoxy.

Dan

 

[mikespenturningz]

I have used locktite 5 minute epoxy and it is shown in the post I have to help with segmenting. I have since switch to CA for this and I have had better luck. Please note that I said that "I" had better luck. There are others that have better luck with epoxy than I did!

 

[teamtexas]

Thanks Mike. I like the CA ok, but I'm going through it quick and its kinda expensive!

Dan

 

[mikespenturningz]

I hear you Dan I am allergic to the regular stuff so I use the odorless and it is around $20 per 2 ounces. I can blow through a few ounces in a few weeks especially with the longer scallops! But at least I can breath after using it!

 

[edstreet]

Ok, so when you say you can use Gorrilla Glue I assume your not talking about this one.
View attachment 96055

I've done a bunch of segmenting this weekend and this stuff is coming apart everytime I turn around. My thick CA seems to be holding much better. I think I want to try some of the Loctite 5 min epoxy.

Dan

This glue is mostly for the clamp and hold crowd. When it comes to metal to metal it somewhat falls short, nor is it a gap filling material, it is fairly decent on hot rating and cold rating, dont even attempt it with micarta to metal. Under pressure this glue, as with other polyurethane glues, forms a good strong bond and unable to foam up. It is only when it reaches non-compressed areas that it foams up.

Perks of this glue is: wood to wood; wood to metal, dish washer abuse.

The white version is horrible.

It does clean up good with acetone.

Also worth noting is the expanding foam does NOT have mechanical strength, which makes it bad for gap filling.


Having said all of this I am curious now if it is not your technique of application. The best glue/epoxy surface area is one that is a bit porous. Sand paper makes a very poor glue area but better than many types. The best area is bead blasting

 

[clieb91]

The one course I took on segmenting we used CA mainly due to time constraints but Epoxy was mentioned. I do use the the Gorilla you have pictured to glue my blanks in since that class though as we discussed using it to do that. I like it a lot better then using CA in my basement shop.

CtL