Jimbo1943
Member
I am having a problem with gluing up acrylic and aluminum. Some hold some come apart. I used super glue and also used some CA on some. same results.
gluing up segments.
- Thread starter Jimbo1943
- Start date
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
mark james
IAP Collection, Curator
I'd strongly recommend a 2 part epoxy. Ignore if it is a 5/10 minute. Wait overnight. Insure that you do not build too much heat during drilling as well as turning. Be patient. Epoxy has a bit of flex, CA is brittle. Have FUN! 
We've all been there.
We've all been there.
egnald
Member
I agree whole heartedly with Mark. My experience has been with segmenting SimStone or TruStone with aluminum, brass, and copper. CA was an utter failure for me. I have had success using 15 minute 2-part epoxy although I have still had some failures during drilling - my fault entirely by being too impatient.
I have had success by allowing the epoxy to cure overnight and then drilling on the lathe using very frequent drill-and-back out to allow the flutes to clear out and the blank and bit to cool. Like maybe 20 to 30 times per blank. I also use 240 grit sandpaper to scuff the metal before gluing it up - for the same reason one scuffs up the brass tubes for gluing.
As Mark said, be patient. I think it is well worth the effort. - Dave
I have had success by allowing the epoxy to cure overnight and then drilling on the lathe using very frequent drill-and-back out to allow the flutes to clear out and the blank and bit to cool. Like maybe 20 to 30 times per blank. I also use 240 grit sandpaper to scuff the metal before gluing it up - for the same reason one scuffs up the brass tubes for gluing.
As Mark said, be patient. I think it is well worth the effort. - Dave
Bats
Member
Super glue is CA glue, so it's not surprising you had the same results with both. Whatever you call it, it bonds pretty weakly with metals (a lot of people around here will argue that it shouldn't even be used to glue in tubes. I'd agree, but I'm too impatient for epoxy).
I'm absolutely with Mark on this one - rough up both surfaces first, then use epoxy and let it cure overnight, and be very careful when drilling. Little pecks, frequently withdrawing to clear chips, and take a break if the bit is getting hot.
I'm absolutely with Mark on this one - rough up both surfaces first, then use epoxy and let it cure overnight, and be very careful when drilling. Little pecks, frequently withdrawing to clear chips, and take a break if the bit is getting hot.
Jimbo1943
Member
Thanks for the info. I will try to find a good 2 part epoxy. What is a good thing to use for brass? Is there sheets or something better.
egnald
Member
So far I have bought all of my 1-inch wide, 6-inch long brass strips "Stamping Blanks" as well as copper and aluminum online from GoodyBeads.com. I have also bought these kinds of materials from eBay. Also check stamping blanks at rings-things.com. - Dave
jttheclockman
Member
Being I use many metals in my segmenting I too have learned the hard way to avoid CA when gluing any segments especially anything other than woods. Can it work yes it can depending on the style of segmenting. If you are drilling on any kind of angle due to the style of layout then you will constantly have failures. If it is just rings you can probably get away with CA. But I do not even bother trying any more. My go to epoxy glue is System3 T88. It is an epoxy that has a long open time and takes at least 24 hours to cure. I try to give it 48 hours especially if a complex design.
With this all said and the use of sharp bits and drilling slowly and little bites at a time to keep heat down, there are still times when outside reinforcement is needed to keep things stable. The use of gauze by some or popsicle sticks or thin pieces of wood wrapped around the blank will help when drilling. I have started doing another process but unfortunately have not gotten a chance to finish testing this before summer hit and all my other chores need attending. I will get back to all these during the winter months again. I will share at that time.
Here is an example of CA used on a blank and how easily it fell apart. Pieces fell off just with touch. So that was my first and last use of CA. I am in the school also of not using to glue in tubes. CA is just too brittle and has no give. That is a huge part of the problem.
With this all said and the use of sharp bits and drilling slowly and little bites at a time to keep heat down, there are still times when outside reinforcement is needed to keep things stable. The use of gauze by some or popsicle sticks or thin pieces of wood wrapped around the blank will help when drilling. I have started doing another process but unfortunately have not gotten a chance to finish testing this before summer hit and all my other chores need attending. I will get back to all these during the winter months again. I will share at that time.
Here is an example of CA used on a blank and how easily it fell apart. Pieces fell off just with touch. So that was my first and last use of CA. I am in the school also of not using to glue in tubes. CA is just too brittle and has no give. That is a huge part of the problem.
jttheclockman
Member
Just for your info there are list of where many people get materials used for segmenting here.
https://www.penturners.org/threads/segmenting-material-resources-draft-library-article.167867/
A good quick source for brass is Hobby Lobby.or Michaels
https://www.penturners.org/threads/segmenting-material-resources-draft-library-article.167867/
A good quick source for brass is Hobby Lobby.or Michaels
Bats
Member
I may have to pick up some of the stamping blanks egnalD mentioned, but if you're in the market for something thicker (disclaimer: I've never been brave enough to try turning any metal much thicker than a soda can on the wood lathe), I once picked up a door kickplate made out of solid 18ga (.05") brass from the local Ace Hardware to CNC some medallions out of, and I've been using it for assorted projects ever since. Still got more than half of it left, too.