Glueing Segmented blanks with metal parts

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Lmstretch

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What type of glues does everyone use when segmenting blanks with metal segments? I have been using 15 minute epoxy. Unfortunately, I only have about a 60% success rate when drilling, and almost that bad when turning. I am probably just building up to much heat, but if I am lucky, it might be the epoxy.



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If you're using sheet metal, you want to scuff the metal surface real good. Use a pretty coarse sand paper. I've glued with both epoxy and Medium CA. Wrap your blank with tape while drilling, and turn the tape off when you turn the blank. DO drill slowly, and if you're not using wood, you can cool with water while drilling. Hope this makes a difference.
 
I do alot of segmenting and use various materials such as acrylics, metals of all kind, woods and so on. I use System3 T88 epoxy glue. It is the best epoxy glue I have found. They also have a 15 minute epoxy but warn you that it sets in 15 minutes so if your blank needs clamping time then I suggest you use the long open time glue. I tell this story all the time and yet I failed to follow my own advice just recently gluing up a couple acrylic segmented blanks and it kicked before I was satisfied to the way I clamped it. I tried CA glues and they did not work well for me so do not even bother any more. I agree you need to add some tooth to the faces of all materials and for that I usually sand with 100 grit paper or 120 grit whatever I grab first. You can look at my album and see many examples of these in there and will tell you all were glued with T88. good luck.

Yes drilling needs to be done slow and with sharp bits as well as turning you need to use sharp tools. Go slow and the outcome will be worth it. I never wrapped my blanks and never found a need but to each their own.

I should also mention I allow at least 24 hours for glue to cure and not just dry. I am never in a hurry to make any pens for I do this as a hobby.

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Glued with CA!
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What type of segments are you using? Like Chuck above or angled or directly across?
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IF you do those straight across as the above, I drill holes in the metal BEFORE assembling. I make "washers" the size of the tubes and glue them in with CA. I dry run for the fitting and then glue with 15 minute or 60 minute epoxy.

IF like Chucks. I would use T-88 as John mentioned or CA as Chuck recommended. Don't force the drilling, be patient. IF it takes an hour or two to drill (or more) it will be worth in for that one of a kind pen.
 
Thanks for the info. I have been doing both angled and directly across. The across seams to be the ones I have the most issues when drilling. I might just do what you suggest and make washers and then glue them together. Not by design, but that is usually what happens anyway when they separate when I first drill them.


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leehljp said:
What type of segments are you using? Like Chuck above or angled or directly across?
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Imported Photo from leehljp

Imported Photo from leehljp. Please edit title and description.
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IF you do those straight across as the above, I drill holes in the metal BEFORE assembling. I make "washers" the size of the tubes and glue them in with CA. I dry run for the fitting and then glue with 15 minute or 60 minute epoxy.

IF like Chucks. I would use T-88 as John mentioned or CA as Chuck recommended. Don't force the drilling, be patient. IF it takes an hour or two to drill (or more) it will be worth in for that one of a kind pen.
Click to expand...

I didn't check my wording above! I made a contradictory statement. I started one sentence and then merged a second one in. I do NOT use CA for stacking. It requires clamping and that is hard with instant stick. Now if I had Chuck's ability, skills and foresight, I might be able to do it with CA.
 
All the above suggestions are excellent IMO.

I typically use System 3, 2 part 15 minute epoxy. Others mentioned above are also excellent.

My only additional suggestion is that when you drill, very often (e.g., every 1/4") pull out the drill and either let it air cool completely, or I use some water on a paper towel wad and hold the drill to take the heat off. Heat is your enemy. Occasionally I have not followed this suggestion and have melted/softened the epoxy bond. And it had set overnight and was a good glue-up.

Have fun ;) ;) ;)
 
Thanks for the info, I will start trying to cool off the drill bit with a paper towel like you suggested, sounds like a good idea. I have ordered some System 3, T88 to give it a try. I am thinking about giving the West System G-Flex a try to see which one I like.


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Everything everyone adds brings up another thought! Mark made me think 😅

Mark:"Occasionally I have not followed this suggestion and have melted/softened the epoxy bond." When we make up our own rules, we can break them and take the consequences! 😄

Seriously now: At some point when things fall apart and you are determined to make the next one work - wrap the blank in gauze and CA the heck out of it. You still want to keep the heat down but the added strength might/will keep a jolt on metal from tearing it apart.

I started by wrapping thread around delicate pen blanks and CAing that, and then someone here started recommending gauze and CA. The extra strength is helpful even when drilling. Most of the time Gauze/CA is used on delicate segmented blanks for just the turning part, but it can work for the drilling too.
 
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