General Material for Casting Question

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wiset1

wiset1

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This has probably been asked before but here goes again.

I've done casting in the past using the kits sold on PSI and CSUSA, but now I plan to use the resin savers and hate the idea of spending money on this type of kit that sells weights and end caps that will just be wasted.

What's the best kind of material to get that will replace these kit materials? I see the A and B epoxy in the woodcraft shop, but I'm looking for something that won't yellow over time and won't explode when the skew hits it because it's too brittle. What do the pros out there use for clear casting?

Thanks in advance
 
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Alumilite if you do not want to stink up your shop and want something that is easy to turn. That is the resin that I use. Polyester resin if you want cheap, don't mind the smell, and plan to do tube-in casting. Alumilite does not like tube-in casting.
 
I use polyester resins in the smaller containers (qts/gals.), you buy the hardener seperately (not a kit). I buy mine at a Michael's craft store in a city near me. You can usually find 20-40% off coupons to print out to use in their stores online. As I understand it the PR is easier to use and more types of colorings can be used than aluminite.

I have never tried Aluminite but from what I've read the polyester resins are quite popular, and to me, less expensive.

Good luck in your castings. This is all just my opinion, of course.
Tim.
 
Hmm.. I used the ResinSavers with alumilite for a long time and
I don't remember specific problems that weren't related to the things
I was trying to put in the castings .(papers, decals, powders etc.)
 
NewLondon88 said:
Hmm.. I used the ResinSavers with alumilite for a long time and
I don't remember specific problems that weren't related to the things
I was trying to put in the castings .(papers, decals, powders etc.)
Click to expand...

I don't do tube-in casting of any kind on a regular basis. When I have, I have not had any issues either, I am just reporting the feedback that I have received here at IAP. Some who do this kind of casting say that Alumilite gets silvery areas near the ends when inserting the components.
 
MesquiteMan said:
I don't do tube-in casting of any kind on a regular basis. When I have, I have not had any issues either, I am just reporting the feedback that I have received here at IAP. Some who do this kind of casting say that Alumilite gets silvery areas near the ends when inserting the components.
Click to expand...

Ah.. gotcha. I just never heard that this was specific to the poly resin. I
got it with PR too. I thought it had to do with the resin still being slightly
flexible rather than the type of resin. (ie .. hardened, but not cured?) but
I'm not a resin expert either
 
Tim'sTurnings said:
I use polyester resins in the smaller containers (qts/gals.), you buy the hardener seperately (not a kit). I buy mine at a Michael's craft store in a city near me. You can usually find 20-40% off coupons to print out to use in their stores online. As I understand it the PR is easier to use and more types of colorings can be used than aluminite.

I have never tried Aluminite but from what I've read the polyester resins are quite popular, and to me, less expensive.

Good luck in your castings. This is all just my opinion, of course.
Tim.
Click to expand...

I have to vehemently disagree with the part in red above! I have used both and find that Alumilite is easier to me. Yeah, I need a scale and i need to mix it completely but otherwise, that is it. I do not have to worry about temp, humidity, etc and best of all, I don't have to wait very long before I remove the blanks from the pressure pot.
 
wiset1 said:
Rigid or Flexible Curtis? The site has loads of options

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Alumilite Clear is the resin that was designed with the pen maker in mind. I helped Mike at Alumilite develop and test it after a discussion he and I had where I told him the things penmakers were looking for. It polishes better than Alumilite Water Clear which was their original clear casting resin and has a longer open time. Both of these issues were common complaints with the Water Clear before Clear came along.

Some folks still say PR polishes better than Alumilite Clear but that has not been my experience in testing both of them actually glued up as 1/2 Alumilite and 1/2 PR and sanded and polished at the same time. Even my wife could not tell the difference between the transition between the 2.
 
You certainly can vehemently disagree with my opinion on my experiences. But there is a post right now that has an alumilite casting that had inadvertantly got contaminated with some moisture and got all "foamy" and cannot be used. I know for a fact that with PR you can use colorants that contain water and have no ill effects with the PR. So, in my opinion, PR is easier to use and can be used with more colorants, without needing to worry about moisture in said colorant. As I said, part of this is from experience and not conjecture.
 
How can you have an opinion that PR is easier to use when you have admittedly not even used Alumilite? Your opinion is one sided! I have used both and my opinion is completely different than yours. As a result, I have chosen Alumilite for the past 300 or so gallons.
 
MesquiteMan said:
Tim'sTurnings said:
I use polyester resins in the smaller containers (qts/gals.), you buy the hardener seperately (not a kit). I buy mine at a Michael's craft store in a city near me. You can usually find 20-40% off coupons to print out to use in their stores online. As I understand it the PR is easier to use and more types of colorings can be used than aluminite.

I have never tried Aluminite but from what I've read the polyester resins are quite popular, and to me, less expensive.

Good luck in your castings. This is all just my opinion, of course.
Tim.
Click to expand...

I have to vehemently disagree with the part in red above! I have used both and find that Alumilite is easier to me. Yeah, I need a scale and i need to mix it completely but otherwise, that is it. I do not have to worry about temp, humidity, etc and best of all, I don't have to wait very long before I remove the blanks from the pressure pot.
Click to expand...

I won't use the word "vehemently" and I've only cast 5-6 gallons of Aluminite, but I do disagree. I have not been able to get an adequate shine on Aluminite castings, including Aluminite castings that were purchased from others. I now avoid all Aluminite.

In my experience, PR is the first choice to get a good shine, and if it is not overly catalyzed it turns very easily.
 
You are right, but I did not say I had experience in aluminite, that's why I said from what I have read, PR is easier to use, even though I have not used it.

But from reading about alumilite it appears to me that some peple say that Pr is easier to work with. JMO

But since I have used PR with latex or water based colorants, I CAN say you can use more colorants without the concerns with moisture that alumilite has. This is a fact.

I don't care what kind of product people use, or their preference, I just wanted to put forth a different opinion because of the question asked by the original poster. So I stated my opinion from what I have read and the fact regarding the colorants that I have used that will not work with alumilite.

Whichever you choose is your choice I just thought another opinion might add to the conversation. If I have offended an alumilite user, I apologize. I also said all of my posts were in my opinions and did not say they were based from experience. Happy castings, Tim.
 
P R and water

How about "more forgiving" for another descriptor of P R? The posted photograph of two inches of foam was stated, by Curtis, to have been caused by moisture. Last night while heating, in my ultrasonic water bath, I tipped a cup of P R far enough to get water in it. I simply removed the cup, tipped it up on it's side and with my popsicle stick I was able to pour and "flip" most of the water off the top of the P R. After vehemently, verbally, expressing myself, to myself, for my clumsiness, :biggrin: I stirred the mekp and poured my blank!!! Dang, I like a good argument!!!:laugh::laugh::biggrin::biggrin: We love, and appreciate, you, Curtis and I have a lot of respect for your opinion. I haven't poured MUCH P R and NO Alumilite. I get a lot of good feedback from this forum. Thanks to ALL!
 
I use both PR and Alumalite.

For most things, I use PR. Simply because it is cheaper, I don't have to put CA over it to get a super high gloss finish and it rarely requires pressure for the castings I do. Additionally, I have found a way to minimized the smell.

For things like "worthless wood" or "mutt" type castings, I have far better results with Alumalite. For me, Aluma was a little longer learning curve, but once learned, it works nicely.

I am all about saving money, but some things I cast just require Alumalite. I know that some here can and do cast things with many voids (like cactus) in PR. I have been unable to do this with acceptable results.

Respectfully submitted.
 
I use both (and will continue to do so...both have their purposes). I have noticed the "bonding" issue at the ends of tubes if I am casting directly to a colored tube (black nickle, white) but NOT if I paint the tubes then cast. My guess would be that the Alumilite wants a better gripping surface and the ultra-smooth finish on the colored tubes doesn't give enough.

I prefer PR for most of my color/swirl castings, mainly because it is less expensive and my "experiments" don't cost nearly as much to throw away! Per several members' recommendations, I use Alumilite for fills/mutt casts, just seems to flow better.
 
Tim'sTurnings said:
If I have offended an alumilite user, I apologize. I also said all of my posts were in my opinions and did not say they were based from experience. Happy castings, Tim.
Click to expand...

Tim, you did not offend me in any way, my friend! I don't get offended easily, if so, certainly would not be able to be the head moderator here!
 
Oh yeah, one big plus for Alumalite that I forgot about Alumalite. It does seem to have a considerably longer shelf life, at least in my shop, anyway.
 
Ok,
I am the one who posted the foaming Alumilite. My fault, I did not read all instructions before starting.
I have always used PR resin but had to stop after having SERIOUS health issues partially involving the very caustic VOC's of PR.
I switched to Alumilite for health reasons. The only reason I find PR resin easier (at this time) is because that is what I am used to. Curtis has been kind enough to help me learn the ins and outs of Alumilite. Now that I have the facts and once I get the proper colorings I am hoping things will go well. There IS something to be said for not having to wear a "hasmat" suit to do casting.
For those who say the fumes don't bother them, just wait. If you can smell it you are absorbing VOC's into your body damaging your body.
Not to preach, but last year after several years of getting sicker and sicker I had to take out a loan to have chelation therapy done to remove the years of crap from my body from VOC's from many things I stupidly used, that "didn't bother me" Not fun!
I am not saying to stop using PR resin, if that is what you like, but believe me all the warnings about proper ventilation are not just a suggestion!!!!!!!!!!!!!Please listen to them!!
If you can smell it, your ventilation is NOT proper!!!
When I hear about those using PR inside or even worse in ones home oven, I chringe.I tried to say something a year or so back and got called a baby and crazy.
So there is my rant, long over due.
With that said. Happy Casting!!
Alice
 
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elody21 said:
Ok,
I am the one who posted the foaming Alumilite. My fault, I did not read all instructions before starting.
I have always used PR resin but had to stop after having SERIOUS health issues partially involving the very caustic VOC's of PR.
I switched to Alumilite for health reasons. The only reason I find PR resin easier (at this time) is because that is what I am used to. Curtis has been kind enough to help me learn the ins and outs of Alumilite. Now that I have the facts and once I get the proper colorings I am hoping things will go well. There IS something to be said for not having to wear a "hasmat" suit to do casting.
Click to expand...

Alice.. i don't want to rain on anyone's parade, but do NOT put that
Hazmat gear in storage. Although the fumes from Alumilite are not
as noticeable, they are still there and need to be taken just as seriously
as do those from PR. Especially for someone who has already experienced
problems from VOC's.

Here's a couple of lines from the MSDS for Alumilite.

from Part A

Inhalation: High vapor or aerosol concentrations are irritating to the eyes and
the respiratory tract, may cause headaches, dizziness, anesthesia, drowsiness,
unconsciousness, central nervous system defects, brain damage, and possibly death.
Ingestion: Small amounts of this product aspirated into the respiratory system
during ingestion or vomiting may cause mild to severe pulmonary injury, possibly
progressing to death.
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
from Part B

Acute Inhalation: MDI vapors or mist at concentrations above the TLV can irritate (burning sensation) the mucous membranes in the respiratory tract (nose, throat,
lungs) causing running nose, sore throat, coughing, chest discomfort, shortness
of breath, and reduced lung function.
Chronic Inhalation: As a result of previous repeated overexposures or a single large
dose, certain individuals develop isocyanate sensitization (chemical asthma) which
will cause them to react to a later exposure to isocyanate at levels well below the
TLV. These symptoms, which can include chest tightness, wheezing, cough,
shortness of breath, or asthma attack, could be immediate or delayed (up to
several hours after exposure). Similar to many non-specific asthmatic
responses, there are reports that once sensitized and individual can experience
these symptoms upon exposure to dust, cold air, or other irritants. Sensitization
can be temporary or permanent.

_________________________________________________

Not trying to scare you into or out of any particular product.. just making
sure that nobody mistakes 'little detectable odor' for complete safety.
 
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VOC's

Hi Charlie,
Thanks you so much for that information!! Really. I appreciate the input and will be sure and wear my OSHA mask for VOC's and of course use it out side and with gloves.
You are so right. I should have thought of that. Even if you cannot smell it, it can be harmful. Very good call.
And as far as scaring me. I think more persons who deal with any chemical or other harmful products need to have some scare put in them. Have a "healthy" respect for what you use just as if it were a power tool.
Nice to have someone on my side.
Alice



NewLondon88 said:
elody21 said:
Ok,
I am the one who posted the foaming Alumilite. My fault, I did not read all instructions before starting.
I have always used PR resin but had to stop after having SERIOUS health issues partially involving the very caustic VOC's of PR.
I switched to Alumilite for health reasons. The only reason I find PR resin easier (at this time) is because that is what I am used to. Curtis has been kind enough to help me learn the ins and outs of Alumilite. Now that I have the facts and once I get the proper colorings I am hoping things will go well. There IS something to be said for not having to wear a "hasmat" suit to do casting.
Click to expand...

Alice.. i don't want to rain on anyone's parade, but do NOT put that
Hazmat gear in storage. Although the fumes from Alumilite are not
as noticeable, they are still there and need to be taken just as seriously
as do those from PR. Especially for someone who has already experienced
problems from VOC's.

Here's a couple of lines from the MSDS for Alumilite.

from Part A

Inhalation: High vapor or aerosol concentrations are irritating to the eyes and the respiratory tract, may cause
headaches, dizziness, anesthesia, drowsiness, unconsciousness, central nervous system defects, brain damage, and possibly death.
Ingestion: Small amounts of this product aspirated into the respiratory system during ingestion or vomiting
may cause mild to severe pulmonary injury, possibly progressing to death.
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
from Part B

Acute Inhalation: MDI vapors or mist at concentrations above the TLV can irritate (burning sensation) the mucous
membranes in the respiratory tract (nose, throat, lungs) causing running nose, sore throat, coughing, chest discomfort,
shortness of breath, and reduced lung function.
Chronic Inhalation: As a result of previous repeated overexposures or a single large dose, certain individuals develop
isocyanate sensitization (chemical asthma) which will cause them to react to a later exposure to isocyanate at levels well
below the TLV. These symptoms, which can include chest tightness, wheezing, cough, shortness of breath, or asthma
attack, could be immediate or delayed (up to several hours after exposure). Similar to many non-specific asthmatic
responses, there are reports that once sensitized and individual can experience these symptoms upon exposure to dust,
cold air, or other irritants. Sensitization can be temporary or permanent.

_________________________________________________

Not trying to scare you into or out of any particular product.. just making
sure that nobody mistakes 'little detectable odor' for complete safety.
Click to expand...
 
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I've used both. All I can say is Curtis is the Flash to get his alumilite in the pot fast enough for the pressure to do any good. :redface:

For pen blanks I like the flexibility and more forgiving nature of PR. If I was casting things to their final shapes like models and such, I'd use Alumilite.
 
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