Frustration on top of Frustration - painting tubes for casting again

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Russianwolf

Russianwolf

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Joined
Jul 13, 2007
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Location
Martinsburg, WV, USA.
Okay, I was on here a couple months ago complaining about this and asking advice...... well, I'm back.

I've tried 4 brands of paint. I've let them dry anywhere from two days to three weeks and I'm still having paint failures in the casting stage. I cast 8 sets of blanks today. Of them 4 were black enamel and 4 were lacquer. All were dried in excess of 2 weeks. After casting today I have:

black enamel
1) 1 blank that cracked off as I was removing them from the mold (I may be able to repair and turn it myself)
2) 2 blanks that cast okay, but you can see that the paint has swelled irregularly between the cast objects. (I'm not sure if I'll hit paint as I'm turning on these)
3) 1 blank that cast okay, but the paint blistered between the objects showing the brass.

black lacquer
4) 4 blanks that prove that PR and lacquer don't play well together. Though it did have an interesting effect I may try to exploit later.

So what's next? I'm looking for gloss black. ANyone want to sell me some powder coated blanks for a fair price?
 
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Mike:
I use almost exclusively ceramcote acrylic by Delta. It is brush paint, but since I've switched to it, I've had no issues, either with casting it in PR or adhering it to brass tubes. I do let it dry for at least 2 hours before casting or glueing.

It is cheap (about $1 per small container), available on line, Michaels and Snobby Lobby.

I had the same issues as you with both enamel and lacquer.
 
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Mike,

If you really need them, I can powder coat some for you. However, I am gone for the next week and can't do them until I return. If you want any assistance from me, let me know what tubes you need and I will do them when I return.

However, I have had success using Testors Enamel Paint. YMMV though.
 
Rust-Oleum High temp paint designed for headers is what I use. Good to 2000 degrees farenheit.
 
has to be gloss or you will see the edges of the clear portion on the dichro I'm using on top of it. I could do it, but it'd take a lot more work to eliminate those edges.

I'll stop by the auto parts store and see about the engine paint or the ceramcote.

Right now my failure rate on these is way too high and it's all in the paint. ****ing me off.

I think I'll just cast a painted tube to start off this next batch. No sense doing all the hard stuff just to throw them in the trash.
 
I know Gary uses powder coat on his carbon fiber pens. Even if you color is not super gloss, it really isn't a problem, because the PR will give it a wet amplified look no matter what. It's unfortunate that Alumilite is not very good for clear tube casting, because Alumilite likes any paint, to the point where it will actually chemically bond to the paint to become one in the same! You know if you paint a mold and let it dry, then pour alumilite in the mold, what comes out of the mold will be a perfectly painted casting and you will have to use a chisel if you want to scatch the paint off it, because the paint and alumilite become one. It's a pretty cool product feature, especially if you were making something like a barbie doll. But..for pens, it's pretty useless.
 
Jeff, unfortunately with a flat background you can see the difference in the amount of gloss if you have a glossier clear object on top of it. At least I can see it and it drives me nuts.
 
Cracking and pealing off is often a sign of preparation. If the tubes have been out of a sealed bag for several months, or even in the bag for 6 months or so, the almost undetectable film that builds up on brass can cause the cracking. A small hole in the bag will allow this to happen also. Fingerprints can cause similar reactions. All it takes is one area to "start" the cracking and then it can continue across the whole area.
 
Seamus has the answer I believe. I've had issues with paint and liquid PR too. I started baking the tubes and the problems magically went away!

Keep in mind that enamel can take weeks to fully cure at room temperature. Regardless of what the can says. :wink:
 
Don and Seamus,

How long do you bake them for? I have had the same problem with enamel and got the idea of baking them in a toaster oven also. I set it at about 195 degrees and set the timer for 15 minutes (longest it will go) and left them in until cool. I haven't cast any of these tubes yet and am wondering if I've baked them enough.

Thanks,
Keith
 
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