Friction polish?

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Woodchipper

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What are the advantages of friction polish on wood pen blanks? Good or bad? Just watched a YouTube video making a DIY batch with BLO, shellac, and DNA; equal parts. Your observations or experience is most welcome.
 
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I think there are ways to use it that provide some longevity to this kind of finish. I think a friction finish on wood is unrivaled in its beauty and natural feel and sheen, and if you add a disclaimer that with regular handling a wood pen will bloom into a beautiful patina…I don't think that's deceitful. Honest.

A CA finish will very shiny and probably more protective is somewhat "plasticy" feeling. Some wood require this kind of finish if they are soft for the protective value, but again the finish is not "natural."
 
I think there are ways to use it that provide some longevity to this kind of finish. I think a friction finish on wood is unrivaled in its beauty and natural feel and sheen, and if you add a disclaimer that with regular handling a wood pen will bloom into a beautiful patina…I don't think that's deceitful. Honest.

A CA finish will very shiny and probably more protective is somewhat "plasticy" feeling. Some wood require this kind of finish if they are soft for the protective value, but again the finish is not "natural."
Yes there is disclaimers in there. If you explain that it needs further care down the road it makes a fine finish. I disagree with you on the feel. I can make a CA finish feel like wood just as easily. See alot of people go for the shiney look and build up with polish and things like that but just as easy to use less CA and stay with thin CA and do not go as high on the MM or step down after you get all scratches out. Also you can use satin lacquer. To me there is no better finish than to show depth of wood with lacquers. Finishers all over the world play with this type finish. CA is like a poly so the build up. But CA does not have to have that plastic feel. If I could show you a bog oak pen I did I would bet you that you could not tell what finish is on it if any. I use Danish oil on all my scrollsaw work and that has poly in it. But I have had so many customers over the years compliment me on the feel of the natural wood on those pieces. yet it is not overly shiney and yet still has that natural wood feel. What people like when you say wood feel is the sanding to higher grits than 220 and closing of the grain. That is what they feel. Less CA and that feel is still there is my point. Finishing is an art as well as turning the pen. The look you go for is a factor.
 
Back to ye olde CA finish for pens. Will mix a batch for other turnings and see what happens.
I didn't mean to capture this, sorry.

@jttheclockman,we may do some experimenting with this concept, but honestly friction polish is so beautiful and sells well, and we are very upfront about it as well.
 
I have used it but , as said , after a while "it goes dull" but so what ? If I like the pen and it's pleasant to use and hold ???

Provided you're honest about usage changing the look, don't see the issue.

I use melamine ( as much because I haven't got hang of CA and smell etc ) and I like the way you can still see and feel the grain but it's protected . On Lignum vitae I just friction buff it ( rub with shavings then soft cloth at speed ) no added finish and I get a semi matt incredibly feeling finish and as these were all for family that's it.

For selling , the market determines what's " right" repeat customer = right choice
 
I didn't mean to capture this, sorry.

@jttheclockman,we may do some experimenting with this concept, but honestly friction polish is so beautiful and sells well, and we are very upfront about it as well.
Absolutely, if it works for you keep using. So many ways to get to the final stages of pen making. No right or wrong way. We all learn different methods.
 
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