Fresh start on getting my black tubes to work

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Russianwolf

Russianwolf

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Joined
Jul 13, 2007
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5,690
Location
Martinsburg, WV, USA.
Okay, I think it's finally warmed up enough that I can get back into the shop and cast some blanks. I'll have to check my PR and see if what I have left survived the winter, but that the least concern.

As some may recall I've tried painting the tubes black and casting. Seems that every black paint I've tried blisters up away from the tube during casting and when you turn it, the brass shows. I've tried Engine paints and High Temp paints, Krylon and testors, you name it, I think I tried. same or similar results.

I know some of you guys are doing this successfully, but in my shop it don't work. So, where do I go from here?

on the books is to try using:

1)Liver of Sulphur to blacken the tubes (have some for silver work, so why not try).
2)Glue a piece of black ribbon to the tube
3)and I know someone sent me some powder coated tubes, I don't recall if I've cast them or not.

Any other ideas that I should go with?

I can't afford to put any more glass in them until I know the background is going to work. You should see the number of failures in my shop just from the background paint.
 
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I have a similar problem. What I have done is paint the tube and then give it a a couple coats of CA an extra step but it works. I am working on some black myself for C.F. I tried the chemical brass ager to blacken the tubes. But I am having a problem the ends of the tube are not curring. Haven't quite put my finger on it yet I also used epoxy to glue the C.F. to the tube so not sure if it's the brass ager or epoxy that is reacting with the PR. I know that coating with CA works good and be sure to seal the end of the tube. Powder coat is probably the way to go but that is a lot of start up.

I like to hear from someone who has been there done that. I got a whole cabinet or 2 of try that $$$$ that didn't work.

I will be watching and will share anything I find.

Bruce
 
Bruce, I had a very interesting talk with Seamus on this very subject about 3 or 4 weeks ago. What he suggested was to cure the painted tubes in the toaster oven, then put a few coats of ca on them, and cure again in the toaster. It's a few more steps, but has worked for me.
 
some of them were allowed to cure for two weeks and still had the issue.

I was going back through some of the old posts and saw the toaster suggestion. I'll give that a shot too.
 
EBorraga said:
Bruce, I had a very interesting talk with Seamus on this very subject about 3 or 4 weeks ago. What he suggested was to cure the painted tubes in the toaster oven, then put a few coats of ca on them, and cure again in the toaster. It's a few more steps, but has worked for me.
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Yea like Mike I let it cure plenty long. I didn't use heat but 2 coats of thick CA dose the trick for me. But when your doing a lot as I'm sure Mike is I would like to find a proven paint that would work. Perhaps an automotive paint but they ain't cheap. I'm not too willing to try maybes.

I think I am going to call I think it's Mike at U.S. Composites Monday and see what he has to say. He helped some before but we are pushing the limits and using PR for what it was not intended for. If I get any advise I report back.
 
Andrew_K99 said:
For black try this Indy~Pen~Dance :: Turning Supplies :: Brass Ager

It works really well and is a lot cheaper than paint.

AK
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I have and I'm not sure it give me problems. I tried it once on one of my steam punks. A total failure the PR did not stick at all to it. I used it on snake skins and more recently the carbon fiber and I have trouble with the ends of tubes not curing. I really think the chemical is reacting to the PR. For personal use there is a work-a-round dip the ends in CA after squared. But not acceptable for selling blanks.

Powder coat would be the answer but the set-up seams like a real pain. The CA works hopefully the PR suppliers mite have some answers but I wouldn't hold my breath.
 
christensencarpentry said:
im new to all the casting but i just used a sharpie and it did just fine on the ones i casted. ps love the input from everyone on all the casting.
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Welcome to the fun world of casting. I know from experience a Sharpie will not work with PR. Are you using PR. I tried a black sharpie a few time in the past and ALL were failures. The PR seems to melt the sharpie and the ink blend with the PR kind of like dissolving up into the PR like a stain. I used a sharpie to fix something like a chip and it happens every time. The work-around I can get a fix with a sharpie but have to put a coat of CA over it. Then again CA will dissolve sharpie. So I for for one will not use a sharpie only for a tiny dot maybe.

Others may be able to get it to work but I learn the hard way $$$.

I am getting close to posting something been working on some carbon fiber stuff. Still working out bugs but getting close.

Casting is sooo much fun
 
liver of sulfur didn't work. Though it is supposed to work on brass, it don't work on this brass which I know is a rather inferior alloy.

I've painted some tube with blank engine paint (good to 500 degrees) and baked them for 30 minutes at 200. unfortunately, the weather took a dive and I didn't want to chance the colder air effecting the results. I'm ready for when warmer temps return though.
 
SDB777 said:
Why not just ModPodge the black paint as a sealer?
Scott
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Scott have you had good luck with Mod Podge as an overcoat. I tried once maybe twice with pore results. I do use Mod Podge as a glue for for label casting with no problems.


Russianwolf said:
I've painted some tube with blank engine paint (good to 500 degrees) and baked them for 30 minutes at 200. unfortunately, the weather took a dive and I didn't want to chance the colder air effecting the results. I'm ready for when warmer temps return though.
Click to expand...

If it still gives you trouble. I would go with a CA overcoat. I overcoat my labels and my black painted Steampunk blanks. The CA bonds very well with PR. With the labels I just put on 2 coats of thick CA smooth it out with a piece of plastic and let it cure no sanding or roughing did 1000's like that. Now with the black paint I do spray the paint on thick 4-5 coats then polish up the paint on the lathe with 0000 steal wool. Then put on 3 or 4 coats of CA and wet sand it to about 4000 that's good enough when clear cast it looks like glass. I am still searching for a better method short of powder coating. Each step is a LOT of time (a whole day ea. step for 1 or 20) and time is the biggest problem.:cool:
 
I would make black PR tubes and skip the brass. It gets thin, but can be done. I've also done this with ebonite which works even better but is a little pricey depending on the value of the pen.
 
bruce119 said:
SDB777 said:
Why not just ModPodge the black paint as a sealer?
Scott
Click to expand...

Scott have you had good luck with Mod Podge as an overcoat. I tried once maybe twice with pore results. I do use Mod Podge as a glue for for label casting with no problems.

:cool:
Click to expand...

I have applied it to stamps and exposed black paint...two coats with plenty of drying time in-between. No problems so far:biggrin:




Scott
 
I have not casted but have spray painted several different metal items on boats and trailers and had them survive very adverse conditions. Some even have gotten a coat of fiber glass resin with no problems.

Heat the item after scuffing real well. I use 80 grit followed by a propane torch. I get the item damn near hot enough to ignite the paint when it is sprayed. I spray, the heat cures it almost instantly, then wait about 3 minutes and hit it with the torch again.

Maybe you have tried this. Thought I would put in two cents.
 
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