Food safe finish?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Woodchipper

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Messages
6,109
Location
Cleveland, TN
I'm getting ready to make some items for a local multi-vendor gallery in town. Some of the turnings will be shallow bowls. My finish I plan on using will be equal parts of DNA-BLO-Clear Shellac. This is said on YouTube to be food safe. Your opinion or experience?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Never used your process. When I was making scoops and pizza cutters, I used Wood Turners Finish (WTF). It's suppose to be food safe and the more coats the glossier it gets depending on your preference.
 
Pure oils, such as Tung oil or Linseed oil, would probably be the most safe. Shellac, if the bowls are supposed to be used, would likely be a poor finish, as it will degrade fairly rapidly with use. Further, BLO has heavy metal dryers in it, so really it would NOT be food safe...probably one of the least food safe.

I would try pure tung oil. This is a nut oil, and it actually has the best water proofing abilities of the various oils we generally use for finishes. It is not a "fast" finish, however after a couple of weeks it should cure such that it provides the protection it will provide. As with most oils, the more you coat, the shinier it will get. The more coats, the more protective the oil will be as well, and it can provide significant water resistance. The thing that really got me going with this oil was this video I watched on an ancient japanese umbrella crafting technique, where the final step was to coat the basically paper segments with tung oil, which waterproofed them and actually made the umbrella (wood and PAPER!) actually work. Blew me away how excellent the water resistance of tung oil is. Another factor of Tung oil is it does not impart the stark pee-yellow color that linseed oil usually does...it is an amber-gold itself, but on the wood, the warming aspect is relatively subtle, and the warming tone is extremely pleasing.

So, if I were to cast my vote, it would be for tung oil.
 
You're good 21 CFR 175.300
(b)(3)(i) for BLO and (b)(3)(iv) for Shellac
That does not seem to list the heavy metals that make it a drying oil. Usually cobalt and manganese. Are people actually aware that drying oils contain HEAVY METALS? They are not just oil, and they don't just have solvents in them, and I would not call any of them "food safe"...

BLO is not alone. Danish oil is also a drying oil, and also contains cobalt and manganese. I wouldn't use either on bowls that were intended for people to eat out of...

Now, if the goal is to make a decorative bowl, then I see no issue with drying oils. They will be set in a place an unhandled the vast majority of their lives. It is specifically the presence of heavy metals in drying oils and use on food-contact utensils and bowls, that I think should be carefully considered. Our bodies don't need much cobalt, and too much IS toxic.
 
I am acutely aware of lots of nut/seed allergies due to a member of my family who is severely allergic. I don't use any nut based products on any of my food use products (nor any nut based woods like walnut or pecan), so that eliminates a lot of choices you will read about. If you are selling anything to the public, be prepared to answer questions on the type of wood and ingredients of any finish you use, as anyone who has an issue will be sure to ask.
 
I am acutely aware of lots of nut/seed allergies due to a member of my family who is severely allergic. I don't use any nut based products on any of my food use products (nor any nut based woods like walnut or pecan), so that eliminates a lot of choices you will read about. If you are selling anything to the public, be prepared to answer questions on the type of wood and ingredients of any finish you use, as anyone who has an issue will be sure to ask.

Good point about nut issues... One thing I did learn some years back, is that if the proteins in an oil are filtered out (i.e. such as with pure walnut oil), the remaining oil is not known to cause allergies. It is usually the proteins that cause the problems. Don't know if tung oil can be filtered that way or not, though.
 
Good point about nut issues... One thing I did learn some years back, is that if the proteins in an oil are filtered out (i.e. such as with pure walnut oil), the remaining oil is not known to cause allergies. It is usually the proteins that cause the problems. Don't know if tung oil can be filtered that way or not, though.
Yes, I have seen some of these things as well, and have discussed same issue in lots of other places, both live and on line. I'm not sure what is really true and under what circumstances, so I use the test of 'do I want to be responsible for someone getting sick or worse' as my decision point. I love making really pretty things, but if the answer to my test question is even a little towards 'no', then that ends that.

Kevin
 
That does not seem to list the heavy metals that make it a drying oil. Usually cobalt and manganese. Are people actually aware that drying oils contain HEAVY METALS? They are not just oil, and they don't just have solvents in them, and I would not call any of them "food safe"...

BLO is not alone. Danish oil is also a drying oil, and also contains cobalt and manganese. I wouldn't use either on bowls that were intended for people to eat out of...

Now, if the goal is to make a decorative bowl, then I see no issue with drying oils. They will be set in a place an unhandled the vast majority of their lives. It is specifically the presence of heavy metals in drying oils and use on food-contact utensils and bowls, that I think should be carefully considered. Our bodies don't need much cobalt, and too much IS toxic.
The determination of food safety status of drying oils has been codified, based on the food additive petition process, supported by safety data and risk to public health. You can choose to disagree with the determination.
 
The determination of food safety status of drying oils has been codified, based on the food additive petition process, supported by safety data and risk to public health. You can choose to disagree with the determination.

I wholly and completely disagree with it!

It does not account for the GREATEST risk factor in the finish, the heavy metals. This is a problem with a LOT of safety standards. Look into your public water supply, and look into RECENT studies on how ALLOWABLE levels of countless toxins according to standard practices (many of which date back many many decades, relaying on very old studies that are now superseded) are actually quite dangerous. Sometimes not for adults, more specifically children, but also often for people who have existing sensitivities to certain things as well. What's "allowable under current standards" is quite frequently a debacle of radically out of date information, persistent but unjustifiable adherence to prior standards that should be updated, and a frequent lack of concern about toxins that may previously have fallen under one of those "generally" considered safe/food safe categories (which have repeatedly been shown over the last decade to be a TERRIBLE way to categorize ANYTHING as "safe", period.)

EDIT:
It should also be made clear, that the linked SDS is NOT specific to any particular finish like BLO or Danish. It is a generalized safety sheet that classifies certain compounds often used in finishes. To truly understand the safety of a drying oil, you should be relying on a SPECIFIC SDS, not a generalized SDS. Further, IMHO, the greatest mistake of ANY SDS:

"Substances generally recognized as safe in food." This is "GRAS"....look it up. Learn about its recent history. GRAS is crumbling, as it WELL SHOULD, because it is a wildly abused category of safety by manufacturers of countless goods, and is primarily based on assumption and unverified statements by manufacturers. Accept at your own risk. 🤷‍♂️
 
I have never tried it on a bowl but my favorite finish for the cutting boards I make is Walrus Oil. I use the oil and then the board wax. It's a pretty awesome 1-2 punch. I have a cutting board I made to try (and abuse for testing by never rejuvenating it) that still has water bead up on the edges after probably 4 years of the first and only application of the finish. Just wipe on the oil, let it sit a few hours, wipe off the excess and then buff in the wax.

yes, before I've got people up in arms. - I said that I I have only put one coat of the oil and single coat of the wax on it. I did it on purpose to see how bad the board would get to give myself some idea of how it might act if a customer didn't do any maintenance on their board. Surprisingly, it's still in decent shape. It's an edge grain board made from strips of maple and hickory.

As I think about it, I bet the wax would make a fantastic friction finish on a bowl. I may have to experiment!
 
I wholly and completely disagree with it!

It does not account for the GREATEST risk factor in the finish, the heavy metals. This is a problem with a LOT of safety standards. Look into your public water supply, and look into RECENT studies on how ALLOWABLE levels of countless toxins according to standard practices (many of which date back many many decades, relaying on very old studies that are now superseded) are actually quite dangerous. Sometimes not for adults, more specifically children, but also often for people who have existing sensitivities to certain things as well. What's "allowable under current standards" is quite frequently a debacle of radically out of date information, persistent but unjustifiable adherence to prior standards that should be updated, and a frequent lack of concern about toxins that may previously have fallen under one of those "generally" considered safe/food safe categories (which have repeatedly been shown over the last decade to be a TERRIBLE way to categorize ANYTHING as "safe", period.)

EDIT:
It should also be made clear, that the linked SDS is NOT specific to any particular finish like BLO or Danish. It is a generalized safety sheet that classifies certain compounds often used in finishes. To truly understand the safety of a drying oil, you should be relying on a SPECIFIC SDS, not a generalized SDS. Further, IMHO, the greatest mistake of ANY SDS:

"Substances generally recognized as safe in food." This is "GRAS"....look it up. Learn about its recent history. GRAS is crumbling, as it WELL SHOULD, because it is a wildly abused category of safety by manufacturers of countless goods, and is primarily based on assumption and unverified statements by manufacturers. Accept at your own risk. 🤷‍♂️
I do know about this stuff. It's part of my job. Rant away. I'm done.
 
I do know about this stuff. It's part of my job. Rant away. I'm done.
Well, I just want to be clear here, for the whole thread.

Plain and simple, despite the data sheet you shared (which is not specific to drying oils), HEAVY METAL SALTS, usually cobalt and manganese, are NOT food safe. This is not an assumption, this is a fact. Cobalt, over long term exposure, leads to bone and muscle damage as well as GI issues. Manganese over long term exposure is neurotoxic.

This is long standing wood finish knowledge here, there, as you can find forum threads from decades ago where people discuss this. Wood working magazines have had more than one article on the subject over the last couple decades. It is sad that this isn't well known today. Hopefully people will read this, do some of their own research, and learn more about the fact that some wood finishes are just NOT food safe. (And even if you use pure oils, a good point was made earlier about nut allergies!)

There are often other toxic compounds in non-pure oil wood finishes. General Finish's "Salad Bowl Finish" which was renamed "Wood Bowl Finish" a few years ago, was found to have a rather toxic solvent in it: 2-Butanone oxime (their own data sheet specifies this as sill being a compound in "Wood Bowl Finish.") So it was rebranded from Salad Bowl Finish that was labeled as food safe, to Wood Bowl Finish which is NOT labeled food safe.

This is a very subtle issue, I know its not always clear, which is why threads like this are started. It seems clear that not...enough...people understand the long term usage dangers of finishing food-contact products with faster-drying oil formulations. They are often using compounds that over long term exposure (both for the woodworker, if they aren't wearing gloves, as well as the consumer) can lead to health issues. It may take some years before exposure leads to problems, its not like it would be immediate and acute. But they CAN cause health issues.

Personally, I wouldn't want to be the one responsible for some kind of non-trivial health issue for my customers some years down the road, because I finished all my products with finishes that contained toxic compounds. I don't think this is something to be cavalier about. 🤷‍♂️ IMO, heavy metals are a bigger problem than solvents, as they don't evaporate, they are a long term part of the finish. Solvents do evaporate, so are less of a problem, but its still good to know what chemicals are in your finishes and make at least educated decisions about what finishes you choose to use as "food safe" for your work.
 
Plain and simple, despite the data sheet you shared (which is not specific to drying oils)
It isn't a data sheet. It's the codification establishing the use of the substances listed under it for food contact. Drying oils are listed.

The thresholds are established according to 21 CFR 170.39.

You're getting more elemental cobalt and manganese from eating the handful of nuts you put in the bowl than from the barely detectable amount from the film finish contacting the nuts in the bowl.

If you have a beer with the nuts, you get even more cobalt from from the B12 from the yeast in the beer.

I agree people should protect themselves when applying finishes and not marinate in them. The protection is against the solvents.
 
It isn't a data sheet. It's the codification establishing the use of the substances listed under it for food contact. Drying oils are listed.

The thresholds are established according to 21 CFR 170.39.

You're getting more elemental cobalt and manganese from eating the handful of nuts you put in the bowl than from the barely detectable amount from the film finish contacting the nuts in the bowl.

If you have a beer with the nuts, you get even more cobalt from from the B12 from the yeast in the beer.

I agree people should protect themselves when applying finishes and not marinate in them. The protection is against the solvents.

Looking at many of the compounds in the original sheet you shared...they are resins formed from some fairly noxious compounds. Studies that were done on the "Salad Bowl Finish" (which was originally listed as food safe, and is now sold as "Wood Bowl Finish" and not listed as food safe) indicated that some of those resinous compounds formed a urethane-like surface film, which would ultimately crack and then flake off into your food with use. This was what lead to the reclassification of that finish as not food safe and rebranding. Those compounds were tested and classified as dangerous to human health.

I'll leave it here, but I don't trust the process these days. I don't trust the standards. We are ever more frequently discovering that the amount of toxic compounds that can and does actually lead to health issues, is often FAR below established and accepted thresholds, which often date back to ancient studies rife with flaws. We should do better. 🤷‍♂️ Anyway, I won't further the debate, I've said what I felt I needed to.
 
Good point about nut issues... One thing I did learn some years back, is that if the proteins in an oil are filtered out (i.e. such as with pure walnut oil), the remaining oil is not known to cause allergies. It is usually the proteins that cause the problems. Don't know if tung oil can be filtered that way or not, though.
Even if its unfiltered after polymerisation/curing no protein is left intact anyway
 
That DNA-BLO-Clear shellac blend is also called 'friction polish', or in some circles 'shine juice'. It will produce a nice shine and make products pretty when sitting on a display shelf, but it will not hold up to handling. Utilitarian items like bowls get lots of use, and occasionally are even washed - so it would not be my choice for items that come in contact with food.

"Food safe' is a contentious subject. This thread is a great demonstration of that fact. We have pertinent standards that are based on years of research and testing, but it is also true that we learn something new every day, and sometimes what we learn today is that what we thought was true yesterday really wasn't. But if we go through life constantly worrying that what we believe to be true today may be proven to be untrue tomorrow, we will be miserable.

Here's my opinion, for what its worth: Generalized standards defining 'food safe' are fine, but the fact is that there are a few unfortunate folks out there who are exceptions to the general rule, and who have adverse reactions to things that are fine for the rest of us. I don't sell stuff, but I do make things that I give away to family and friends. If I anticipate that the thing I'm making will be used in conjunction with food, I try to avoid finishes that contain petroleum distillates, metallic driers, and other components that I wouldn't put on a ham sandwich, and I don't give them away until the finish is thoroughly cured. I may use Tung Oil, walnut oil, mineral oil, beeswax, and solvents such as turpentine and limonene, alone or in combination, to create a finish. And when I give that item away, I clearly describe to the recipient what was used as a finish so that they can decide if it is OK for them.
 
Last edited:
That DNA-BLO-Clear shellac blend is also called 'friction polish', or in some circles 'shine juice'. It will produce a nice shine and make products pretty when sitting on a display shelf, but it will not hold up to handling. Utilitarian items like bowls get lots of use, and occasionally are even washed - so it would not be my choice for items that come in contact with food.

"Food safe' is a contentious subject. This thread is a great demonstration of that fact. We have pertinent standards that are based on years of research and testing, but it is also true that we learn something new every day, and sometimes what we learn today is that what we thought was true yesterday really wasn't. But if we go through life constantly worrying that what we believe to be true today may be proven to be untrue tomorrow, we will be miserable.

Here's my opinion, for what its worth: Generalized standards defining 'food safe' are fine, but the fact is that there are a few unfortunate folks out there who are exceptions to the general rule, and who have adverse reactions to things that are fine for the rest of us. I don't sell stuff, but I do make things that I give away to family and friends. If I anticipate that the thing I'm making will be used in conjunction with food, I try to avoid finishes that contain petroleum distillates, metallic driers, and other components that I wouldn't put on a ham sandwich, and I don't give them away until the finish is thoroughly cured. I may use Tung Oil, walnut oil, mineral oil, beeswax, and solvents such as turpentine and limonene, alone or in combination, to create a finish. And when I give that item away, I clearly describe to the recipient what was used as a finish so that they can decide if it is OK for them.
I agree with your one comment, as I stated, be sure that you make clear to a recipient - buyer or gift receiver - what was used in the process of making the object. People widely vary on what they are sensitive or not sensitive to, but people with sensitivities should have the ability to make an informed decision.

As for standards - I tend to think that the party that funded the research usually has the determination at the end of the research be positive to them, regardless. If you think I am being silly, I think you need to look at the studies paid for by Dupont on the safety of Teflon, or the studies paid for by Reynolds on the effects of tobacco. I could name others, but I think this discussion has been informative to all and did what I hoped - simply raise awareness that not everyone is exactly the same when it comes to things they encounter in our environment.

I Appreciate the vigor and time of everyone who participated in this discussion!
 
I'm getting ready to make some items for a local multi-vendor gallery in town. Some of the turnings will be shallow bowls. My finish I plan on using will be equal parts of DNA-BLO-Clear Shellac. This is said on YouTube to be food safe. Your opinion or experience?
I use that for the bowl to a nice shine that does not look artificial. Listen, all finishes are food-safe after being cured. What we are really talking about is a finish that the owners can put on themselves when the finish starts to come off. Mineral Oil, and walnut oil...are the most easy for a non-woodworker to apply. BLO will last longer by itself, you have to let it cure. But it too will eventually wear out... can your client put it back on themselves?
 
Looking at many of the compounds in the original sheet you shared...they are resins formed from some fairly noxious compounds. Studies that were done on the "Salad Bowl Finish" (which was originally listed as food safe, and is now sold as "Wood Bowl Finish" and not listed as food safe) indicated that some of those resinous compounds formed a urethane-like surface film, which would ultimately crack and then flake off into your food with use. This was what lead to the reclassification of that finish as not food safe and rebranding. Those compounds were tested and classified as dangerous to human health.

I'll leave it here, but I don't trust the process these days. I don't trust the standards. We are ever more frequently discovering that the amount of toxic compounds that can and does actually lead to health issues, is often FAR below established and accepted thresholds, which often date back to ancient studies rife with flaws. We should do better. 🤷‍♂️ Anyway, I won't further the debate, I've said what I felt I needed to.
Jon I have not read all the replys because this got to be a tit for tat thing and it gets rather boring. But would like for you to sum things up in your words. What do you recommend for things like bowls, spoons and utensils, and cutting boards or any other item where foods come in contact with them. Maybe you see it to have different toppings if any on each. I use to make banana and fruit bowls going back 30 plus years ago. Sold quite a few. Back then Salad bowl finish was the finish that many turners and woodworkers were using so I did the same. One thing I always use to do because what I made was not meant to eat off or use to eat with , was to mention to people to place a towel or doily of some kind in the baskets before putting fruits or breads in them. I always had examples on displays as to what I suggested. My fruit baskets were always finished in dipped Danish oil and dried. No way any flaking was happening. I am guessing then the old addage that any finish is food safe after it has fully dried and cured is not in your vocabulary. Now if you tell me no finish on wood is safest then tell me the list of woods that you feel are the safest to eat and cut on. because so many people today are making cutting boards with all kinds of exotic woods as well as domestic woods. I would just like to see you summarize your findings and clarify where you stand being it seems you have done extensive studies on this topic. Thanks.
 
Jon I have not read all the replys because this got to be a tit for tat thing and it gets rather boring. But would like for you to sum things up in your words. What do you recommend for things like bowls, spoons and utensils, and cutting boards or any other item where foods come in contact with them. Maybe you see it to have different toppings if any on each. I use to make banana and fruit bowls going back 30 plus years ago. Sold quite a few. Back then Salad bowl finish was the finish that many turners and woodworkers were using so I did the same. One thing I always use to do because what I made was not meant to eat off or use to eat with , was to mention to people to place a towel or doily of some kind in the baskets before putting fruits or breads in them. I always had examples on displays as to what I suggested. My fruit baskets were always finished in dipped Danish oil and dried. No way any flaking was happening. I am guessing then the old addage that any finish is food safe after it has fully dried and cured is not in your vocabulary. Now if you tell me no finish on wood is safest then tell me the list of woods that you feel are the safest to eat and cut on. because so many people today are making cutting boards with all kinds of exotic woods as well as domestic woods. I would just like to see you summarize your findings and clarify where you stand being it seems you have done extensive studies on this topic. Thanks.

TL;DR Read the next post. *

Well....I have done some research. I don't know if I would necessarily call it extensive (there is a LOT of research out there, and sadly a lot of it is also behind paywalls...so I research what I can), however I and many members of my immediate and extended family have had numerous health issues spanning very long periods of time. My mother and I are both somewhat studious, and have been researching how to resolve our health issues ourselves (modern medicine has not only not been helpful, but a lot of what they do just exacerbates a lot of modern health ailments...that is a whole other discussion probably not suited to these forums; Look up "Bioenergetic Approach to Health" if you want to learn on your own...its amazing how our bodies work, what TRULY leads to health, and how good you can feel when you actually give your cells what they really need to produce enough cellular energy (ATP) to operate at optimum levels.)

We have researched a lot of areas, including microbiology and bioenergetics, and it is pretty amazing how disjoint the actual function of our bodies is, from a lot of health recommendations. Further, there is often a wild disconnect in the levels of certain compounds that will cause toxicity, and the "allowable levels" set by agencies like the EPA. I have read a fair amount of studies, although I don't know that I have most of them readily referenceable (I had a computer catastrophe in 2023, and lost a ton of my data when several drives went kaput on me. My focus over the last couple of years has been more on the microbiological and bioenergetic front, so most of the studies I've bookmarked or downloaded are more about that, than toxic compounds and toxicity levels.) One study that I was reading not too long ago (not specific to heavy metals, but its the kind of stuff I read):


There are a lot of studies on this subject of, what levels do we experience a toxic response. A lot of toxic substances exhibit a "decelerating" curve of response, meaning the initial responses at low doses can, relatively, be fairly extreme compared to no exposure at all. With increased exposure, the impact eventually plateaus, and as the body gets used to a toxin, it suffers...but we may not...experience it the same way. We get used to it. It is interesting, when you begin to purge your body of toxins...if you are then exposed again after some time, how significant the reaction can be. I've eliminated a lot of things from my diet, water, etc. If I am exposed to certain things now, where I was able to handle it in the past, but with some suffering, the reactions are much more extreme now, to significantly smaller quantities, and can be quite uncomfortable. The western world, Americans in particular, are often chronically exposed to so many toxins, we may not really be aware that some of the health issues we experience, are the result of our bodies reactions to those toxins. Only when we are cleansed of them for a time, do we start to realize the impact they have in our bodies upon exposure.

Further, many toxins are sensitizers, which after initial exposures, can result in wildly acute and intense responses after future exposures. This happened to me in 2020...I was unable to get a respirator due to the pandemic and the fact that respirators were reserved for front line responders. So I started turning in 2020, with nothing more than one of those cheap blue masks. I eventually picked up a ported N95 mask, which was hardly any better as the ports don't work well. My exposure to P2.5< particulate, as well as CA fumes, resulted in massive sensitization and SEVERE allergic and toxic reactions. In particular, the toxic reaction I have to CA fumes, is near-deadly now.

Why am I talking about this? Well, its kind of what lead me down the path. Supposedly only about 5% of the population experience issues with CA, and the issues are usually moderate or less. However after my own experiences, and hearing from just about everyone I know that they, too, have breathing problems when using CA, and hearing countless cases on forums like this or from youtube presenters by people who have fairly severe breathing issues when using CA, I started suspecting that the "established facts" about CA's toxicity were...well, just wrong. As I started researching, it seems that is often the case for MANY (most, all?) toxins...small amounts can cause issues, chronic exposure to small amounts can lead to long term health issues, and the amount of research being done on this is increasing, and seems to be indicating that our long standing assumptions about what levels of toxins are actually toxic, are often incorrect, sometimes by factors in the thousands. We have severe health epidemics today. The health of the western world, America in particular, is HORRIBLE. We rank very low on the world scale as far as health is concerned. Since the mid 90s, the amount of toxins in our food, water, and even the air, has grown geometrically...and our health ailments with it all. We are an unhealthy nation of people that is progressing towards even worse health, not the other way around, which is incredibly ironic given the astronomic level of medical technology we seem to have... (Our medicine, medical knowledge and mainstream health advice is wrong...but, again, discussion for...probably an entirely different place than this.)

I don't trust "old science" on a lot of "allowable levels" of toxic substances. Not anymore. Aside from my own experiences, there is a growing body of science on the subject of just what amount IS toxic, and when to these toxic reactions start causing problems. For grown adults, our exposures to many compounds have been high for some time, and we may not recognize ailments as being a result of toxic exposure (FWIW, toxic exposure is NOT the only potential cause, it is one of many). Our exposure is chronic, and thus "normal"... A lot of the time ,the concern is more for our children, where exposures to toxins may not only cause discomfort or pain, but can disrupt or arrest development of their growing bodies. Levels of toxins in children that cause problems are often MUCH smaller than in adults, and both are often FAR smaller than currently standardized "allowable levels" according to old science.

Studies like the one above are not uncommon anymore. There are raw scientific studies like that, as well as articles written by doctors who have put some focus on toxins and toxicity levels, if you care to do some research for yourselves. There has been some focus on municipal water supplies, and the amount and levels of toxins in them and allowed in them. There are some companies that will do broad scale analyses on your water and give you a report, comparing EPA allowed levels vs. levels identified to actually be toxic in recent science, along with the ratio of the two, if you want to see how many toxins, what level they become toxic, and what levels are allowed in your water...and sometimes its mind boggling what we allow and what we are exposed to on a daily basis (just look up how much arsenic you are exposed to, vs. what is ACTUALLY TOXIC...it'll annoy you at the very least.)

-----

I am not going to recommend any specific products. What I will say is, make sure you are checking what is in the products you use. Heavy metal salts are used as dryers in "drying oils" and, unlike B12 where Cobalt is bound up in the chemical structure of the vitamin, heavy metals in finishes would be unbound, and thus capable of reacting and causing problems. It generally does not take a lot of heavy metals to start causing problems. Something like Cobalt gets absorbed into our bones, and can cause problems there over time or much later. Heavy metal toxicity is much worse for the young, and can lead to developmental problems.

It is not just heavy metals that can be toxic. In the case of Salad Bowl Finish/Wood Bowl Finish, there are resinous compounds that form a urethane-like layer on the surface once the finish is cured. The thing that lead to this finish being renamed and reclassified from "food safe"" is that urethane film will crack over time, flake off into the food, and it has some level of toxicity. Its not like it will kill everyone who eats out of the bowl...but it could cause or contribute to health issues down the line, especially if the bowl is used regularly. We are also talking about a resin here...so, can it contribute to microplastics in the bloodstream? (This isn't from a study, its just something I think about...what are the sources of microplastics in our bodies? They have found them in our brains now, and they DO lead to problems there!)

Volatiles are another factor, however I would be least concerned bout them for the most part. The majority of volatiles evaporate during curing. The rate they evaporate slows beyond certain thresholds, so small amounts might remain in the finish, and with oil finishes, they technically continue curing "forever" (or over such long periods of time that it might as well be), so small amounts of volatile compounds may be released at least earlier in a bowl's service lifetime. Volatiles are also sometimes rather obscure...and often part of proprietary formulations, etc. I have read data sheets on finishes, then found and read data sheets on some of the VOCs in them, and a lot of the time, the data sheets on the VOCs are quite clear: VERY TOXIC, DO NOT LET YOURSELF BE EXPOSED. So, what do you do with that? At the very least, I try to know what I'm dealing with...then I can decide whether to use that substance on a bowl that people will eat out of. (Something else about resins...when they are heated, they can release some toxins... Say hot soup, or the heat of being tossed in a dishwasher, etc. How much toxin can be released from resins into your customers food that way?)

What do I think is food safe? I do think that pure oils are food safe. Pure purified walnut oil. Pure linseed oil. Pure tung oil. There are potential allergies to these, however I do recall reading in more than one place in years past that once these are well polymerized, the chances of them causing an allergic reaction drop dramatically. I think some people think linseed oil (flaxseed oil) does not cause allergic reactions, but not only does it, linseed allergies are apparently on the rise. Still, I think pure oils are the least TOXIC. Allergies are something to be aware of, and by being clear about what kind of finish you have used, people who have allergies can choose to buy or not based on that.

Beyond that, other finishes...all I would say is, know whats in them. I don't think anything with heavy metal salts for driers are going to be truly food safe. Maybe "ok" for adults, I would be most concerned about children and their exposures. Generally speaking, given that unbound (i.e. not a part of a vitamin) heavy metals will generally enter our bodies, and stay in our bodies, until properly chelated out, I don't think heavy metals can ever be considered food safe. I don't think I have ever seen any drying oil that has ever proclaimed to be food safe. I've never read any woodworking magazine article that ever said drying oils are food safe (usually, quite the contrary!) When it comes to volatiles, I think petroleum-derived substances are less safe than natural plant-derived substances. There are some reasons for that...probably too much to get into. Our bodies tend to react more poorly to petroleum-derived substances than plant-derived, but that is not to say that plant derived substances are harmless! Solvents in concentration can be quite problematic. Once they have evaporated, then I think a lot of finishes could be just fine and plenty food safe. To some degree, you need to make sure you are allowing enough time for those compounds to escape, before selling a piece.

Just...educate yourself, know whats in your finishes.
 
Last edited:
The previous post was very long and rambling. I was a bit distracted when writing it. The distilled version:

Modern studies from about the last decade, are increasingly showing that the actual levels of toxic compounds that cause reactions/responses in our bodies, is frequently far, far lower than "old science" and EPA and other regulations allow. Allowable levels of many toxins, such as arsenic, are often many hundreds of even thousands of times higher, than levels that actually cause problems. Children, who are growing and still developing their brains and minds, are often at a FAR greater risk than adults, who these days have often been exposed to these toxins all their lives and have "normalized"...they may in fact be suffering from a toxic reaction, but are used to said suffering.

I don't want to recommend any specific products. I think that pure oil finishes, including walnut, linseed, tung...and others (i.e. Minwax WOP is actually a mixture of many oils including some you would normally consider "dietary", based on a conversation I had with a sales rep about a year or so ago), are the least TOXIC. They may cause allergic reactions, yes, including linseed oil...however I think as long as we are clear about what finishes we have used, any prospective customers can decide for themselves whether or not to buy. I have also read that once oils are well polymerized, their ability to cause an allergic reaction drops dramatically.

I think heavy metals, which are free (unbound) (unlike the Cobalt in B12, which is bound up in the vitamin molecule) are never going to be truly "food safe", are more likely to cause problems with children than adults, but once they enter the body they usually don't leave unless chelated out (however, once embedded into bone, its a lot harder to do that.) I wouldn't consider drying oils to be food safe. I don't know any that are labeled food safe. I've never read magazine articles or anything else that say they are food safe (usually the opposite!)

Volatiles can potentially be problematic, but they evaporate and escape the finish as it cures. I think as long as we make sure to allow our finishes to sufficiently cure, then a lot of volatiles are probably food safe in the long run, as they aren't really a perpetual constituent of the finish. Some small amounts remain behind. I think generally speaking, our bodies like petroleum-based volatiles less than natural plant-based volatiles, however that is not to say that plant based volatiles are safe! Just that our cells seem less prone to reactions with plant based compounds than petroleum based compounds.

Educate yourself, know what's in your finishes, judge wisely with regards to what you think is food safe or not. (Learn to find and read safety data sheets, this is usually where you will learn these facts.)
 
Thanks Jon.
Sure.

I've suffered a lot from toxic reactions... I just hope others don't suffer like I have. It can take many years to fully expunge toxins as well. I've only really started that journey. I don't know how long it will really take. I also have been sensitized to many things...and I suspect that will never change.
 
Well, here is my 2-cent commentary:

Considering there is a difference between "food safe" and "non-allergenic", I am talking about "food safe" here.

Flaxseed oil, the raw base oil in Boiled Linseed Oil, I would assume is food safe as it is often sold and taken as a dietary supplement. Unlike it's Boiled Linseed Oil offspring that has had additives to speed up the drying, Flaxseed oil is rich in polyunsaturated fats so it will still polymerize (harden) at room temperature, but the process takes a lot longer than Boiled Linseed Oil - it can take several weeks for a noticeable hardening to occur. Of course heat speeds this polymerization up considerably - that is why I use Flaxseed oil to build up the "seasoning" on my cast iron cookware.

Shellac is a natural resin secreted by the female lac beetle. It is frequently used in food, especially in confectionery chocolate products, chewing gum, coffee beans and on some fruits. It is even called "confectioner's glaze" or "confectioner's resin" on food labels. It provides both a protective coating that extends the shelf life and a glossy appearance on foods. In addition Shellac is widely used in the pharmaceutical industry as a coating on tablets and capsules.

Denatured Alcohol is primarily ethanol with chemical additives like Pyridine and Methanol to specifically make it toxic to prevent (discourage) its recreational consumption. This all started back in 1920 when ethanol (the alcohol in beer, wine, and whisky) was made illegal. Since it had so many other, beneficial uses, it was deemed industrial alcohol and the US Government required methanol to be added so that it would be poisonous. That being said, most of the useful characteristics are due to the ethanol and not to the additives, so ethanol is food safe (in moderate quantities). I would suggest that certain "high proof" spirits (like 190 proof Everclear) would be a perfect albeit expensive alternative to Denatured Alcohol.

And as for waxes, Carnauba Wax, a vegetable wax that comes from the Carnauba Palm is a natural wax valued for its hardness and high melting temperature. It is often employed as a vegan food-grade polish and as a hardening or gelling agent in a lot of products. And Beeswax is also a natural and food-safe and is sometimes added to food products as a thickener or stiffening agent.

SInce I don't have any known allergies to these ingredients, I would feel perfectly comfortable with my food coming in contact with a surface that had been finished with a concoction of Flaxseed Oil, Shellac, and Ethanol, and polished up with a home made paste made from Carnauba Wax and/or Bees Wax mixed together with Lemon or Orange oil. Since Lemon Oil and Orange Oil are non-drying oils they act as nice smelling solvents that evaporate rather than polymerizing - leaving the waxes behind on the surface).

Regards,
Dave
 
Back
Top Bottom