First scalloped segment attempt

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RogerC

RogerC

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No pictures because I wasn't terribly happy with the final pen, but I had to attempt the blank 3 times. The first 2 attempts were a pau ferro blank with off-white corian scallops and an aluminum paint can lid as a thin metal liner.

I used 5 minute epoxy to glue everything together, but it just never seemed to hold. I think I made several mistakes, including rushing the glue-up before drilling the first blank and then rushing the drilling on the 2nd blank. I think I got the blank too hot which softened the epoxy.

For my final blank, I used wood for the scalloped segments, so I was able to use CA to glue everything up and it worked much better. It just wasn't the final scheme I was after.

So there ya go. Any pointers you can offer for prep, adhesives, etc for using materials other than woods for segments are all welcomed.
 
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Sounds somewhat like my first attempts.
To prep the aluminum you need to rough up both sides and clean with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol. The adhesives are probably not your problem, it's the heat build up. Drill very very slow. I always have a paper towel wet with rubbing alcohol close by and only drill maybe 1/8 to 1/4 inch and withdraw the bit and hold the wet paper towel around the bit to make sure it's cool before doing it again. I know it sounds like I'm over doing it but it works. The end results of going slow are worth it. When turning don't spend to much time in one area that has the aluminum. The heat will build up so fast you won't know what happened till the adhesive softens and your work comes apart. But your biggest concern should be the drilling, just go slow.
 
Segmenting

I would stick with med CA and accelerator most all blank segmenting. Working with metals is a little more challenging so maybe consider wood veneers, polystyrene sheets, fish paper, composite aluminum material or old gift cards as segmenting material. The key is to ensure you have a good bond. After the blanks is built it's a best practice to saturate the seams with thin CA to fill any voids and help prevent blowouts. Plan on getting really good at repairs, things do happen. Take your time and know that practice will make the experience better over time. I'll include some pics of blanks we've made using these techniques as well some finished pens from of our blanks. If you have any questions feel free to reach out.
 

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jimgodoy said:
I would stick with med CA and accelerator most all blank segmenting. Working with metals is a little more challenging so maybe consider wood veneers, polystyrene sheets, fish paper, composite aluminum material or old gift cards as segmenting material. The key is to ensure you have a good bond. After the blanks is built it's a best practice to saturate the seams with thin CA to fill any voids and help prevent blowouts. Plan on getting really good at repairs, things do happen. Take your time and know that practice will make the experience better over time. I'll include some pics of blanks we've made using these techniques as well some finished pens from of our blanks. If you have any questions feel free to reach out.
Click to expand...

Wow Jim! Mic drop with your 2nd post, those are awesome. I agree that aluminum segmenting is challenging. I have used soda cans without much trouble, but have had all sorts of trouble using thicker material from an old license plate. It appears to be the heat generated that melts the glue during drilling. For less intricate segments, encasing the blank with scrap prior to drilling sounds like a good idea -- which I will try on my next attempt. But I'm not sure how this technique will work for more delicate segments. I will also suggest that old gift cards and credit cards can be good for segmenting and they don't have the problem of generating heat.
 
jimgodoy said:
I would stick with med CA and accelerator most all blank segmenting. Working with metals is a little more challenging so maybe consider wood veneers, polystyrene sheets, fish paper, composite aluminum material or old gift cards as segmenting material. The key is to ensure you have a good bond. After the blanks is built it's a best practice to saturate the seams with thin CA to fill any voids and help prevent blowouts. Plan on getting really good at repairs, things do happen. Take your time and know that practice will make the experience better over time. I'll include some pics of blanks we've made using these techniques as well some finished pens from of our blanks. If you have any questions feel free to reach out.
Click to expand...

Thank you, Jim. Really appreciate the advice there. It's obvious by your work that you really know what you're talking about!
 
A couple of machinists I know, use isopropyl alcohol as a coolant when drilling aluminum.
It is cooler than water, boils off easily, and leaves no residue.
So the bond between the drilled blank and the tube wouldn't be compromised without a cleaning step.

These guys drill and cut thick plate and extrusions, and they always use the alcohol.
The alcohol is inexpensive and is also useful for removing silicone and other oil based products.
It's also hygroscopic, so if the container is left open, it will absorb moisture from the atmosphere and dilute it.

Might be worth a try, since the aluminum used in pens is relatively thin compared to plate aluminum.
 
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