TellicoTurning
Member
Trying to learn to do Peppermills.. this is first attempt.. not too good.. had to rework it some to get it to look right and still not what I envisioned. The wood is Marblewood.
First ever Peppermill
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Skye
Member
Regardless, it's still darn nice! Now that I've got a big-boy lathe, I'm going to have to try one of them someday.
When you make these, is it possible to have both the top and bottom on the lathe at the same time? I'm not familiar with how they're done.
When you make these, is it possible to have both the top and bottom on the lathe at the same time? I'm not familiar with how they're done.
punkinn
Member
Any hints for another first-time-peppermill-maker about to do a set? I have two nice blocks of maple burl i'm going to try not to ruin.
Nancy
Nancy
BigRob777
Member
I was going to get into these, but there's so much drilling involved.
Rob
Rob
punkinn
Member
Yeah, that part is making me nervous really. [:0]
Nancy
DavePowers
Member
Can you tells use what problems you ran into so other first timers know what to watch out for.
johncrane
Member
looks fine to me[
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TellicoTurning
Member
Skye & Nancy,
I down loaded every direction I could find and read all of them 5 or 6 times.. not sure I understood a word of what they were trying to tell me... You start by turning a cylinder the length of your finished mill, plus allow for tenons for the scroll chuck, and the cap will have a tenon that fits inside the base of the mill and then you lose just a little when you part the top off.
You will actually turn the top and bottom to final shape separately... that where I had trouble, my top wasn't exactly right... I had a slight out of round and had to put the thing together, (slipped the cap tenon inside the base) then put the bottom on an inside scroll chuck, then padded the top at the tail stock and returned the whole thing back to a cylinder... NOT the correct way to do it.
I have a couple more set up to try later this week.. hopefully, I'll have more luck.
I down loaded every direction I could find and read all of them 5 or 6 times.. not sure I understood a word of what they were trying to tell me... You start by turning a cylinder the length of your finished mill, plus allow for tenons for the scroll chuck, and the cap will have a tenon that fits inside the base of the mill and then you lose just a little when you part the top off.
You will actually turn the top and bottom to final shape separately... that where I had trouble, my top wasn't exactly right... I had a slight out of round and had to put the thing together, (slipped the cap tenon inside the base) then put the bottom on an inside scroll chuck, then padded the top at the tail stock and returned the whole thing back to a cylinder... NOT the correct way to do it.
I have a couple more set up to try later this week.. hopefully, I'll have more luck.
leatherjunkie
Member
I took a class on peppermil turning and other kitchen items at the local woodcraft store. the teacher taught us to turn it all together on the lathe at the same time.
He showed us how to drill it out on the lathe and make the tenon and part it off.
then you just make 1 jam chuck that will fit snugly into the main body hole. put the top tenon side into the hole of main body. main body goes on the jam chuck while live center goes onto the top.
now you just turn it to your desired shape. after all done you need to enlarge the 1/4" hole on the top part of the top to allow for the nut to sit into the top.
I am turning my second one now without any supervision and its not hard. when done i will get pics and post em.
He showed us how to drill it out on the lathe and make the tenon and part it off.
then you just make 1 jam chuck that will fit snugly into the main body hole. put the top tenon side into the hole of main body. main body goes on the jam chuck while live center goes onto the top.
now you just turn it to your desired shape. after all done you need to enlarge the 1/4" hole on the top part of the top to allow for the nut to sit into the top.
I am turning my second one now without any supervision and its not hard. when done i will get pics and post em.
Firefyter-emt
Member
Leon, if you have a chance to take some photos here and there I would love to see some as you go. The jam chuck sounds like a really good idea. Thanks!
leatherjunkie
Member
I wont be able to take pics of this one in progress.
but i will be doing another one tomorrow nite. on that one i will take photos in progress and post em here for you
Jim in Oakville
Member
Nicely Done Chuck!
I would say that your first mill is pretty good, you should see my first one![xx(]
I have made about 20 in the last two years, the drilling is the least interesting part of making a mill, but having a design before you start is a good idea. I use a Talon chuck with spiggot jaws and also a One Way live centre with the large cone. I also do all my drilling on the lathe.
If any one is interetested, I made a cheat sheet for dimensions and process steps that I keep on PowerPoint. EMail me and I will send it out.
Chuck, I hope we get to see your next mill, it's hard to make just one, eh!
I would say that your first mill is pretty good, you should see my first one![xx(]
I have made about 20 in the last two years, the drilling is the least interesting part of making a mill, but having a design before you start is a good idea. I use a Talon chuck with spiggot jaws and also a One Way live centre with the large cone. I also do all my drilling on the lathe.
If any one is interetested, I made a cheat sheet for dimensions and process steps that I keep on PowerPoint. EMail me and I will send it out.
Chuck, I hope we get to see your next mill, it's hard to make just one, eh!
woodwish
Member
I just finished turning my first set as a Christmas gift for my wife. I've had the kits for more than a yeat trying to get the nerve to tackle it. I make big kaleidoscopes all the time so the drilling didn't bother me, it was about the only part I was confident with! The kits I had needed 1 1/16" bore, which luckily is what I use for k'scopes but it is a rare size to find. My biggest problem was making a pair of them for salt and pepper, and getting them to look like they matched. I did add ring of walnut on the pepper and a ring of maple on the salt (body was red oak) so we could tell them apart.
She will love them but I was only semi-happy with how they turned out, she may get another set next year after I make a few more.
She will love them but I was only semi-happy with how they turned out, she may get another set next year after I make a few more.
TellicoTurning
Member
Ray,
Where did you find a 1-1/16" drill bit... I went to 5 stores yesterday looking for one, I found every size except that one. I looked at Woodcraft and the bits they post at eye level were all in the $45.00-$65.00 range... I figured that peppermills may be on hold for a while, but fortunately, found some at floor level in the $9-$10 range... probably will be $9 bits, but at least closer to my budget.
Leon,
Originally I turned this one at the same time on the lathe, but when I finished and put it together, form some reason I was out of round... fortunately, I had enough wood that I could re-turn it and get the top to match the bottom...
I'm still not happy with this one... hopefully the next ones will look better.
Where did you find a 1-1/16" drill bit... I went to 5 stores yesterday looking for one, I found every size except that one. I looked at Woodcraft and the bits they post at eye level were all in the $45.00-$65.00 range... I figured that peppermills may be on hold for a while, but fortunately, found some at floor level in the $9-$10 range... probably will be $9 bits, but at least closer to my budget.
Leon,
Originally I turned this one at the same time on the lathe, but when I finished and put it together, form some reason I was out of round... fortunately, I had enough wood that I could re-turn it and get the top to match the bottom...
I'm still not happy with this one... hopefully the next ones will look better.
TellicoTurning
Member
I sometimes wish I lived a little more urban, than would be close enough to take some lessons.. most of my lessons are self taught... trial and error..
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
You can get the 1&1/16" from Penn State and their resellers.
FB1-116 $7.95 (I got a couple from Woodturningz-they have to order, but only took a couple days)
FB1-116 $7.95 (I got a couple from Woodturningz-they have to order, but only took a couple days)
TellicoTurning
Member
ok.. tks
woodwish
Member
Chuck,
I found 1 1/16" Fortsner bits originally from Highland Hardware in Atlanta, maybe $10. I a LOT of k'scopes and drill a 8 1/2" through hole in each of the big ones so that first cheap one dulled up quickly. I bought some from Woodcraft thinking a few cheap ones would work until dull and replace them. I have touched them up some with a file at times. Finally decided that a carbide one would be worth the money to me, and it probably has but it's starting to slow down some.
I start with a 2" square blank in a 4-jaw Vicmark chuck, but I also line up the other end with the center touching the drill bit. I use a Forstner style bit with a 6" extension on it in a drill chuck, #2 mt, in the tail stock. I run the lathe at about 500 rpm, a little faster for soft woods and slower for dense oily woods. I advance the drill pretty rapidly, usually as fast as I can crank the tailstock for most woods. I stop every 1 1/2" or so, crank the bit back out, loosen the tail stock and pull it all the way out to remove chips. I push the whole tailstock to put the bit back in again to get more loose chips. Finally I tighten the tailstock and advance maybe another inch or two, pull it out to clear chips, etc. By using long "shark" jaws on the chuck I don't put the stock all the way in so the bit can push all the way through without drilling the chuck. I just stop when I can see the bit and pull it back.
This sounds slow but I drill maybe 12-24 at a time, takes maybe 75-90 seconds each. I have tried using drill press but it's not as true or as easy to clear chips since it is vertical. I also have tried compressed air to blow out chips but doesn't really work. Keeping the chips out makes it run cooler, which is the secret to making the bit last.
I found 1 1/16" Fortsner bits originally from Highland Hardware in Atlanta, maybe $10. I a LOT of k'scopes and drill a 8 1/2" through hole in each of the big ones so that first cheap one dulled up quickly. I bought some from Woodcraft thinking a few cheap ones would work until dull and replace them. I have touched them up some with a file at times. Finally decided that a carbide one would be worth the money to me, and it probably has but it's starting to slow down some.
I start with a 2" square blank in a 4-jaw Vicmark chuck, but I also line up the other end with the center touching the drill bit. I use a Forstner style bit with a 6" extension on it in a drill chuck, #2 mt, in the tail stock. I run the lathe at about 500 rpm, a little faster for soft woods and slower for dense oily woods. I advance the drill pretty rapidly, usually as fast as I can crank the tailstock for most woods. I stop every 1 1/2" or so, crank the bit back out, loosen the tail stock and pull it all the way out to remove chips. I push the whole tailstock to put the bit back in again to get more loose chips. Finally I tighten the tailstock and advance maybe another inch or two, pull it out to clear chips, etc. By using long "shark" jaws on the chuck I don't put the stock all the way in so the bit can push all the way through without drilling the chuck. I just stop when I can see the bit and pull it back.
This sounds slow but I drill maybe 12-24 at a time, takes maybe 75-90 seconds each. I have tried using drill press but it's not as true or as easy to clear chips since it is vertical. I also have tried compressed air to blow out chips but doesn't really work. Keeping the chips out makes it run cooler, which is the secret to making the bit last.
TellicoTurning
Member
Ray,
Sounds like we drill pretty much the same way... my dp is a table top and only has a 2" quill travel, and only about 10" or less under the quill, so I drilled on the lathe for this mill and will for the rest as well.
thanks to both you and Ed for the source of the drill bit... my Woodcraft store in Knoxville didn't have the 1-1/16,, maybe after I sell a few of these and get some cash flow, can get the better drill bits.
Sounds like we drill pretty much the same way... my dp is a table top and only has a 2" quill travel, and only about 10" or less under the quill, so I drilled on the lathe for this mill and will for the rest as well.
thanks to both you and Ed for the source of the drill bit... my Woodcraft store in Knoxville didn't have the 1-1/16,, maybe after I sell a few of these and get some cash flow, can get the better drill bits.
punkinn
Member
I got a 1 1/6" bit and a bit extension from CSUSA - the bit was under $10 and I had it within 2 days. I just love that place. []
Nancy
]Nancy
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