First Decent CA Finish - Cocobolo rollester

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Jmaxcy

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Mar 28, 2021
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Location
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Rollester kit cocobolo wood

almost gave up twice on this pen after sub par finishes, sanding back down and starting over. Glad I didn't because I think the finish actually came out decent (at least for my standards)

only thing that irks me is I'm undersized on the nib side, I would guess from sanding it down twice....

comments / feedback of course appreciated
 

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Looks really good !!

And with that style of nib it does not look out of place to have the wood slightly undersize.

In fact, it could be said that that is a style-enhancing feature of the pen !!
 
Wow! That finish is shines in both appearance and apparent quality! I haven't been happy with my CA finishes, so would you mind sharing your technique?
 
Wow! That finish is shines in both appearance and apparent quality! I haven't been happy with my CA finishes, so would you mind sharing your technique?
Thank you!

I usually will sand to 600. Sometimes I will do a coat of CA in between grits if the wood has open pores that way the voids are filled before I get to 600. Also depends on whether or not i plan to do tung oil or BLO after I get to 600. I'm not sure if the oil works as well if CA has been applied, I've been meaning to ask on this site but haven't yet.
Once at 600 I'll wipe clean, apply 4 or 5 coats of thin. I usually try to let that dry on its own rather than using an accelerator. Not sure if that makes a difference but usually the thin only takes a minute or so to dry if you keep it spinning on the lathe. When I put the thin on I do a real quick back and forth once with viva paper towels. Some people are particular about the brand of paper towels, I've noticed viva is less patterned but not sure it really matters. The surface isn't smooth anyways after I'm done with the CA coats. I'll do the same with flex CA for 5 or 6 coats. if you don't have flex medium is pretty similar. Just one drop And quick back and forth again. I try to minimize the ridges but I always have them. I use accelerator after application of the flex Bc it will take a lot longer to dry on its own.

after these coats are done I'll wet sand 1500-12000 with the micro mesh pads. I also sand with the grain After each grit and wipe off any slurry. I've found I spend by far the most time on 1500. I make sure the surface has no ridges and is smooth (albeit pretty dull looking) before moving past 1500.
You won't see a real pop in shine or anything until you get way up in grits, like 8000 and beyond, so don't get discouraged before then!
That's what worked for this finish and I finished another pen last night and it worked well for that pen too. Again, this is the first success I've had with CA and I'm sure there are more knowledgeable people on this site, it seems everyone has their own regimen. This (knock on wood) has seemed to work for me.
 
Thank you!

I usually will sand to 600. Sometimes I will do a coat of CA in between grits if the wood has open pores that way the voids are filled before I get to 600. Also depends on whether or not i plan to do tung oil or BLO after I get to 600. I'm not sure if the oil works as well if CA has been applied, I've been meaning to ask on this site but haven't yet.
Once at 600 I'll wipe clean, apply 4 or 5 coats of thin. I usually try to let that dry on its own rather than using an accelerator. Not sure if that makes a difference but usually the thin only takes a minute or so to dry if you keep it spinning on the lathe. When I put the thin on I do a real quick back and forth once with viva paper towels. Some people are particular about the brand of paper towels, I've noticed viva is less patterned but not sure it really matters. The surface isn't smooth anyways after I'm done with the CA coats. I'll do the same with flex CA for 5 or 6 coats. if you don't have flex medium is pretty similar. Just one drop And quick back and forth again. I try to minimize the ridges but I always have them. I use accelerator after application of the flex Bc it will take a lot longer to dry on its own.

after these coats are done I'll wet sand 1500-12000 with the micro mesh pads. I also sand with the grain After each grit and wipe off any slurry. I've found I spend by far the most time on 1500. I make sure the surface has no ridges and is smooth (albeit pretty dull looking) before moving past 1500.
You won't see a real pop in shine or anything until you get way up in grits, like 8000 and beyond, so don't get discouraged before then!
That's what worked for this finish and I finished another pen last night and it worked well for that pen too. Again, this is the first success I've had with CA and I'm sure there are more knowledgeable people on this site, it seems everyone has their own regimen. This (knock on wood) has seemed to work for me.
Thanks loads. That's a lot more coats than the miserly 4 I do.
 
Thanks loads. That's a lot more coats than the miserly 4 I do.
I'm guessing you can get away with less coats if you can nail the application with no ridges. From what I've read the coats of thin is really to fill voids and harden the surface, it doesn't really build much at all. The coats of flex builds up. I do more coats Of flex Bc I assume the amount of sanding I'll need to do to take down the ridges will erode some of that build up.
Best of luck!
 
That looks like a really good finish to me.
Could you maybe disassemble and reassemble the other way round? Less noticeable that way.
 
Looks great. I find with CA keep it simple. I sand to 600 wipe one way with Thin CA no Accelerator gave that up along time ago. Lathe Speed 350 rpm. Finish with Micromesh then Burnishing Cream.
About 5/6 coats of CA.
This works every time for me and I spent hours getting there.
I am also a fan of Melamine for good durability. Not a high shine but looks natural.
 
Looks great. I find with CA keep it simple. I sand to 600 wipe one way with Thin CA no Accelerator gave that up along time ago. Lathe Speed 350 rpm. Finish with Micromesh then Burnishing Cream.
About 5/6 coats of CA.
This works every time for me and I spent hours getting there.
I am also a fan of Melamine for good durability. Not a high shine but looks natural.
Thanks. Never done melamine. Was finishing with pens plus up until recently. CA looks better and lasts longer, but Pens plus feels more natural.
 
That looks like a really good finish to me.
Could you maybe disassemble and reassemble the other way round? Less noticeable that way.
Thanks! I've never disassembled, I thought about flipping it around before I put it together, wasn't sure which would be more noticeable so I went nib side. I knew I was undersized before I assembled but couldn't bring myself to mess with a good looking finish...
 
Thanks. Never done melamine. Was finishing with pens plus up until recently. CA looks better and lasts longer, but Pens plus feels more natural.
Never herd of Pens Plus may not be avaliable in the UK.
I use Chestnut products Melamine Laquer. Sanding sealer first then Melamine several Coates but drys instantly . It does take days to cure to leave a durable finish but you can buff with a clean cloth and assemble straight away it just get harder with time and leaves natural feel. Suggest you give it a try.
 
Never herd of Pens Plus may not be avaliable in the UK.
I use Chestnut products Melamine Laquer. Sanding sealer first then Melamine several Coates but drys instantly . It does take days to cure to leave a durable finish but you can buff with a clean cloth and assemble straight away it just get harder with time and leaves natural feel. Suggest you give it a try.
Do you apply the laquer as you do a friction finish? Or do you just wipe it on and let it dry. I'm thinking it might be good to have some on hand for certain blanks you wouldn't want to CA, like bog oak etc.
 
Do you apply the laquer as you do a friction finish? Or do you just wipe it on and let it dry. I'm thinking it might be good to have some on hand for certain blanks you wouldn't want to CA, like bog oak etc.
Do you apply the laquer as you do a friction finish? Or do you just wipe it on and let it dry. I'm thinking it might be good to have some on hand for certain blanks you wouldn't want to CA, like bog oak etc.
id love to see a finished product if you have any pictures to share
 
Do you apply the laquer as you do a friction finish? Or do you just wipe it on and let it dry. I'm thinking it might be good to have some on hand for certain blanks you wouldn't want to CA, like bog oak etc.
I apply it with the Lathe stationary it dries almost instantly so I apply several Coates with a cloth you can brush it on but a cloth works for me. Although it dries quickly it says upto 28 days to fully cure, but handalable instantly.
 
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