First Casting with Pressure Pot Results

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Scottb

Scottb

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2015
Messages
31
Location
Houston, TX
Sorry I don't have pics, this is more of a log of my experience so far using the pressure pot and alumilite clear.

Previously I was using the Amazing clear and getting good results, except for the fact that it is a softer acrylic and when wet sanding with Micro Mesh it tore up my pads (which sucks, because I used the same ones for three years now).

I upgraded my tools to a used Binks pressure pot (thanks Billy), and Alumilite clear from TurnTex.

I was printing out my designs using matte photo quality ink jet paper instead of photo paper, adhering the design to the barrels with Mod Podge (Dishwasher Safe) adhesive, then adding a top coat of the same before casting. The results were horrible! I had bubbles everywhere even when using 60PSI. Mod Podge reacted to the Alumilite is all i can guess.

I went back on this forum, did more research and decided to do a CA finish on top of the printed images that were glued to the barrels. I mixed my Alumilite and tried again. Waited 60-90 minutes before removing from the pot. The first one I demolded just to see what would happen. The tube started moving inside the cast, NOT GOOD! So I left the second one alone until this morning. It seemed to work out better but still had flaws that I felt were unacceptable to my quality standards. I put it on the lathe anyway and turned it and polished it just to see the difference.

The difference was night and day compared to the Amazing Clear. It didn't tear up my (new) Micro Mesh pads and polished to a brilliant shine, but like I said previously, the cast didn't meet my standards.

I just put in three more molds using the above technique. The difference this time is that I am waiting six hours before I release the pressure from the pot and remove the molds in order to put in the next set. I will let these molds sit over night and see what results I get in the morning.

I hope I can get better results from this. I just spent a heck of a lot of money to improve productivity in my shop and my perceptions seemed to be off a little.

I am open to any suggestions anyone may have to help improve the odds of getting perfect results every time. Like I said, I have been reading posts like a mad man trying to figure out the best techniques. I heat my molds, pour my resin by weight (digital scale), pour the resin, give it a couple seconds and then load it into the pot and slowly add 60-65 PSI of pressure.
 
Last edited:
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Make sure that the CA is cured for 24 hours before you cast it?

Also, it might be a good idea to invest in a small vibrating machine to help get those bubbles out in addition to heating it up to make it easier for the bubbles to move.

If you can SEE the bubbles down by the tube, use a toothpick to push it away... and then put it through the pressure pot cycle.
 
Would there be a noticeable difference in waiting 24 hours as opposed to using the instant cure spray?
 
duncsuss said:
Scottb said:
Would there be a noticeable difference in waiting 24 hours as opposed to using the instant cure spray?
Click to expand...
In my understanding, there's a huge difference.

The spray accelerates the set, but doesn't fully cure the CA.
Click to expand...
I agree. CA will off gas for a time. Just how long, I don't know. It may have been the problem with the mode podge too. Based on what you're trying to cast, you may have better luck with PR.
 
If you are using printed labels on tubes and casting in alumilite, no need for ca. Alumilite will not stick to the ca. You've already proved that. Wrap the label on the tube and cast it.

What are you using for your label?


Harry
 
What Harry said. I don't do label casting but at the Arrowmont class Don Ward and I taught this year, he was teaching PR casting with labels and I was doing Alumilite with Worhtless Wood and others things. He had some labels on tubes ready to go so I gave them a whirl with PR and they turned out fantastic. No CA or any other kind of top coat. The problem you had with the modge podge is that it is water based and was not 100% dry.

For best results, get your labels on your tubes and into the mold. Then put it all in a toaster oven at 150° F for 30 minutes or so. Then pour your Alumilite while it is still hot. Tube in casting in silicone molds typically do not have enough volume since you are usually only pouring a few ounces. There is just not enough heat generated by the exothermic reaction to get a good polymerization. Heating the mold and tube provides some extra kick and you will end up with better casts.
 
MesquiteMan said:
What Harry said. I don't do label casting but at the Arrowmont class Don Ward and I taught this year, he was teaching PR casting with labels and I was doing Alumilite with Worhtless Wood and others things. He had some labels on tubes ready to go so I gave them a whirl with PR and they turned out fantastic. No CA or any other kind of top coat. The problem you had with the modge podge is that it is water based and was not 100% dry.

For best results, get your labels on your tubes and into the mold. Then put it all in a toaster oven at 150° F for 30 minutes or so. Then pour your Alumilite while it is still hot. Tube in casting in silicone molds typically do not have enough volume since you are usually only pouring a few ounces. There is just not enough heat generated by the exothermic reaction to get a good polymerization. Heating the mold and tube provides some extra kick and you will end up with better casts.
Click to expand...

Thank you for that! I was actually going to call and ask for advice. I am just in a time crunch. I have 72 pens to get out this week, 24 of which need to be cast. I have six left to do. Just can't afford any mistakes.

I am printing these off my Epson photo printer, but it seemed to affect the ink when I just poured alumilite straight onto the tubes.

I just took my new casts out of the pot and they seem to be OK. Not going to mess with them until tomorrow, just for good measure.

Should I bypass Mod Podge altogether and maybe print on self adhesive paper?
 
Last edited:
Scottb said:
MesquiteMan said:
What Harry said. I don't do label casting but at the Arrowmont class Don Ward and I taught this year, he was teaching PR casting with labels and I was doing Alumilite with Worhtless Wood and others things. He had some labels on tubes ready to go so I gave them a whirl with PR and they turned out fantastic. No CA or any other kind of top coat. The problem you had with the modge podge is that it is water based and was not 100% dry.

For best results, get your labels on your tubes and into the mold. Then put it all in a toaster oven at 150° F for 30 minutes or so. Then pour your Alumilite while it is still hot. Tube in casting in silicone molds typically do not have enough volume since you are usually only pouring a few ounces. There is just not enough heat generated by the exothermic reaction to get a good polymerization. Heating the mold and tube provides some extra kick and you will end up with better casts.
Click to expand...

Thank you for that! I was actually going to call and ask for advice. I am just in a time crunch. I have 72 pens to get out this week, 24 of which need to be cast. I have six left to do. Just can't afford any mistakes.

I am printing these off my Epson photo printer, but it seemed to affect the ink when I just poured alumilite straight onto the tubes.

I just took my new casts out of the pot and they seem to be OK. Not going to mess with them until tomorrow, just for good measure.

Should I bypass Mod Podge altogether and maybe print on self adhesive paper?
Click to expand...


I use avery shipping labels. Get them at wally world.
I use a ink jet printer. Print the image, cut and wrap. I use PR, so I use a few coats of ca before casting.


Harry
 
Last edited:
It may also be worth mentioning that you will probably want to use Genuine ink in your inkjet rather than cheaper "store brand" inks. Real inks made by Epson, Canon, HP, ect ... have waterproofing and other qualities that the store brand generally don't, like additives to prevent bleeding of the colors and fading.
 
Skie_M said:
It may also be worth mentioning that you will probably want to use Genuine ink in your inkjet rather than cheaper "store brand" inks. Real inks made by Epson, Canon, HP, ect ... have waterproofing and other qualities that the store brand generally don't, like additives to prevent bleeding of the colors and fading.
Click to expand...

I buy HP ink. It's what Walmart has. Off the shelf stuff, nothing fancy



Harry
 
I was formerly a photographer, so I only use Epson inks just because the quality is there. Found out the hard way (and lost over $100 in process) that Alumilite and label casting DO NOT work. So now I am trying out PR. I purchased some PR and catalyst from a local art store here, hoping it will be the answer. I do like how Alumilite polishes up! No contest in that department, but my labeled tubes were separating from the Alumilite causing striations in the blank after turning. I have about five sets of blanks now that are useless due to quality control.

I had no real issues using the Amazing clear cast other than it is softer and trashes my micro mesh when polishing. If I didn't have so many pens due out this week, I could maybe spend more time experimenting, but unfortunately that is not the case.
 
Scottb said:
I was formerly a photographer, so I only use Epson inks just because the quality is there. Found out the hard way (and lost over $100 in process) that Alumilite and label casting DO NOT work. So now I am trying out PR. I purchased some PR and catalyst from a local art store here, hoping it will be the answer. I do like how Alumilite polishes up! No contest in that department, but my labeled tubes were separating from the Alumilite causing striations in the blank after turning. I have about five sets of blanks now that are useless due to quality control.

I had no real issues using the Amazing clear cast other than it is softer and trashes my micro mesh when polishing. If I didn't have so many pens due out this week, I could maybe spend more time experimenting, but unfortunately that is not the case.
Click to expand...

You say the PR is trashing your MM. In what way?
I've made and turned LOTS of PR blanks, start out at 400 grit then MM to 6000 or 8000 grit then polish. I have 2 sets of MM. One set for dry sanding and 1 for wet sanding.
I do sand some PR casted blanks dry.
I have never trashed any MM pads. JME


Harry
 
As far as using alumilite, DO NOT CA THE LABEL. Alumilite won't stick to it. The tube will slide out of the cast.
If your going to use and want to use alumilite for labeled blanks. Wrap the tube, leave it for a day and cast it.

I don't like using alumilite for label casting for a couple reasons but that's me



Harry
 
Last edited:
MesquiteMan said:
Harry, He did not say that PR was trashing his MM. He said that Amazing Clear Cast was. That is an Alumilite product that is epoxy based and is really a bar top finish.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the correction Curtis. :biggrin:
I have used Amazing clear cast also (what i started with ) for my colored blanks. Only when i have a coupon to buy it. :wink:



Harry
 
Last edited:
Yeah, the coupons helped. The alumilite I purchased from Turntex is awesome stuff, just not for my current project. I am praying that the PR cures and works for me tomorrow. If my experiment works, then I am in business. I just have to get these last pens done to complete this first order.
The info I have found on here has been very valuable to me. I am hoping to save future folks the hours of searching. I am going to, when I have time, log my results into one long post...or maybe talk to someoneabout making it a library addition.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom