First Cast Yoplait Cups

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Chuck Key

Chuck Key

Member
Joined
May 3, 2005
Messages
1,596
Location
Richmond, Virginia, USA.
First cast so now I have two questions.

1. This took two days to set up. Sat over night then in the sun on my driveway under a drinking glass for two afternoons. Not enought catalist?

2. What do I need to get a Michaels to make the next batch dark purple or emerald green?

Thanks.


pr0.jpg
 
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First, what did you use to cut those? A rose engine?

Second, I'd suggest the dyes from ArtStuf.com . (I have no idea what all Micheals carries).
Hmm. I should see if I can salvage sample #1 and get it up on the color library, since that
was done in emerald green without pearl white. (I tried using it to make silicon caulk molds
and it didn't come out well.. should have coated it with Pam).

Oh yeah.. definately too little catalyst if it took that long to set up.
Included in the recipes in the color library is data on how much catalyst
and how long it took to gel (not necessarily cure, but it's a useful guide).
 
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If you got the resin at Michael's you don't know how long it has been sitting there. The MEKp may have oxidised itself out as peroxides tend to do over time. Perhaps if you could get a fresh bottle of MEKp from a auto shop or a boat repair shop, your next batch will cure at a faster rate.
 
I would also like to know how this was done. I really don't think I'm up to the task (don't even have a router yet, have a dremel tool though), but I would still like to see. :)
 
You can use acrylic paints for colors from Michaels. I'll be getting some done this weekend (come hell or high water) and I'll post what the "formulas" are when I show them. I've had real good luck with the paints, but I will be trying some of the pearls soon.
 
Mike, when you say "good luck with the paints" what paints are you using, mixing with the PR?
Thanks
Nick
 
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You can alos get PearlEx Pigments from Michaels...
They are usually with the scrapbooking stuff.

Speaking of Michaels got a 40% off coupon this week in the throwaway flyers!
 
Nick said:
Do you have photos of your set-up that you would be willing to share or this would be a topic for a tutorial..
Click to expand...


This is version 1.0 and I will be making some changes to it. Basically you just index the blank and rotate the router to make the cut. A tutorial covering all the possilities woud be difficult and would depend on what equipment each user would have available to make the parts etc.

PR1.JPG


Hope the photo is helpful.
 
The Michael's I go to has a row of nothing but acrylic paint colors. That's what I've been using. I pour my PR into a mixing cup and add some paint. Mix to my desired effect and then add the Catalyst and mix again. Pour into the mold and wait for the thing to set up.

The pigments that I got from Mr. Fiberglass with my first PR order were nothing by acrylic paints as far as I can tell, so I figured Michael's would have more colors available.

I don't know if I would try them with aluminite as it's supposed to have a bad reaction with water and acrylics have some in it.

I'm supposed to be getting one of Kris' molds which should make doing short runs much easier for experimenting. Right now the mold I use the most give me about 12 blanks per run.
 
Curious...

Not asking for trade secrets, and I'm surely not up to the task using a router, but curiosity is driving me bonkers wondering if you are using a straight trim bit or something fancier.

That is a really nice job on the stopper by the way..!


Chuck Key said:
This is version 1.0 and I will be making some changes to it. Basically you just index the blank and rotate the router to make the cut. A tutorial covering all the possilities woud be difficult and would depend on what equipment each user would have available to make the parts etc.

PR1.JPG


Hope the photo is helpful.
Click to expand...
 
Looks like a v-groove bit to me. The indexing is interesting on that lathe..I haven't seen indexing in that style. Mine is a pin behind the drive head. I had a feeling that's what you did...great work!
 
Jeff and John,

The bit in the photo is a V. I used that and a bull nose on the stopper in the picture. A straight bit could be used along with just about any other bit.

Many designs can be made using two bit with all the different angles, depths, overlaps, concave, convex cuts etc. Lots of possibilities.
 
Brandon25 said:
Mike, are these the type of acrylics you mean? I saw these at Michaels too.

apAB_bottles.jpg
Click to expand...

that's the stuff. Not necissarily that brand though. they have metalics, and flourecents and all kinds of other colors. The Orange I used most recently was from the "airbrush" paint section.
 
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I tried the PearlEx powders and found that you have to constantly mix it to keep it from separating. I lost the first batch but the glob had great pearlesence to it. The second batch was a waste of material. If somebody has any ideas on what I did wrong let me know.

Thanks...
 
Andy,

You might want to start a new thread on this one... what product did you use... Easy Cast, alumilite, silmar 41? I've never had ANY problem getting Pearl Ex's to mix beautifully. If it was a PR off of a store shelf it may be old product. Also what were you mixing in? Paper cups are the best but not the ones coated with wax.
 
Great work! I too agree that the resin/cat might be old. I used some from Michaels a while back and it took quite a while to harden without stickinessssss. One thing I haven't read, probably missed, but a word to the wise, don't leave the resin in a hot shop. It will set without cat. I had half a qt and it hardened in about 2 months. But I'm way down south and shop can get 100+ during summer.
 
Chuck- those are really neet, remind me of the old glass door handles from years ago. Is the much sanding after the routering? I've got 4 routers, & might someday set something like that up. Using that setup I can see where it would cut the concave. Always making an arc with low spot at center. But do you somehow move the banjo to make a convex? Be kinda hard to control I'd imagine. Unless that's just one of your setups in the pic. Can't imagine a router bit moving slowly could leave it that smooth. Somewhere I saw a jig similiar to that that would cut a perfrec ball. It reminded me of an idler arm on a vehicle. Thanks
 
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