Finish for Peppermills

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Deft gloss "wipe on" for the base coat- sometimes a couple coats. Then sand smooth (400-600 grit). Then several coats of deft spray on-with the lathe turning slowly. VERY THIN coats. Let dry to "tacky" between coats. If you have a bead, watch that it doesn't turn into a magnet for your finish. "Little mountains" of spray finish are a pain.

When complete, another light sanding to make it feel great-then a coat of some type of wax and you're "good to go".

I'd be very interested in hearing what some of the other "peppermill guys" do and I encourage them to critique MY method. I've never had complaints, but I'm not enamored with this for durability.

Chuck and Barry come to mind, immediately!!!
 
Ed I forgot, I did seal the maple with some Lacquer wipe on sanding sealer I think it was by Zinsky or some thing like that, I got it at Lowes. I've been using it on my handles as a sealer and spraying with Deft, it even seals the grain in Ash nice and smooth. My woodchuck handle gets a lot of use, and it's done about the same way except I used minwax sanding sealer, and about 5 coats of Deft Gloss, and it's about 4 months old and still in great shape. I have one of my original tools that was sprayed with Deft but no sealer only a bunch of coats and it's held up well., for almost two years, and I think it as got more use than a pepper mill ever would.
 
A question before I give an answer.
Is the wood one that already has an oily content? i.e. rosewood or olive? If the answer is yes then an oil finish is recommended.
If not, then here is a step by step

Sand down to 400. Finish with each grit by sanding horizontally (with the grain) with the lathe stopped.

Seal with a 50% mix of cellulose sealer and cellulose thinners. Apply two coats, After the last coat of sealer and before any further finishing product is applied, rub over the moving condiment with a white synthetic finishing pad to remove 'nibs' of sealer. The Webrax pad is made from aluminium oxide or silicone carbide grains, which adhere to a no-woven mix of nylon fibres. It has a high grit level.

Next, All of my non-oily woods receive several coats of acrylic gloss lacquer. Spraying can be carried out whilst the condiment is still on the lathe but usually because of time constraints I spray away from the lathe in a dust free and well ventilated area of the workshop.
Acrylic lacquer will, subject to the ambient temperature, be dry in 20 minutes. It is recommended that the mill parts are put back on the lathe when dry to receive a de-nibbing between coats. The end- result will be well worth the extra time. Usually a maximum of three coats will suffice.
I like to leave the sprayed items, overnight before beginning the buffing process. I find that this 'hardening' time gives me a better end result than trying to buff immediately.

All of my condiments receive the buffing process. I have three 6" loose stitched mops, which I mount individually on a right-handed threaded polishing mop adapter held in chuck jaws. An alternative is to purchase a Beall polishing system, which comes with all you need to buff any wooden item you may turn.
The first mop will be lightly loaded with Tripoli, which is a gentle abrasive compound that will remove minor scratches. I should stress that this is not a substitute for a rushed sanding phase!

The second mop will contain White Diamond, which is a micro-abrasive polishing compound for removing traces of the Tripoli and to create a deep shine. Do not press the condiment too hard or 'smearing' on the polished surface will occur.

The third and final mop is for applying carnauba wax. Apply a small amount and buff the condiment to create a final polish.

You should end up with a mill, that looks go, feels good and stay that way for a long time.
Am I talking about the wife?????? No a pepper mill !
 
For non-oily wood either deft or spray on deft work well. As others said many thin coats. lightly sanding in between. since pepper mills get a lot of use they need a very durable finish
Alice
 
Mostly, I've used Wipe on Poly and Master's Magic (not both on the same piece, 3-4 coats of either). Both are easy to apply but represent sort of a compromise in durability, I think. I haven't found anything else I've been particularly happy with so far.

-Barry
 
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My answer is simple - anything you want on the outside, and nothing on the inside.

The reason for "nothing" on the inside is that any finish you use will wear off, become a part of the pepper, and may add a flavor to it.

What is used on the outside depends on whether it will be use for pepper or decoration. There is a good reason to use nothing other than just a edible oil, a wax, or nothing, on side of a pepper grinder that will be used. There is nothing to wear off, and the bare wood will take a natural finish. The real reason is the housewives prefer bare wood because it is food-safe, and I like it because there is no having to explain why the finish will not harm anyone when it starts to wear off.

I don't use a wood that will add an oil, a flavor, an odor, or a color to the pepper. That means not using a lot of species, and the reason I have used mostly Maple, Cherry, and Ash over the years. Maple makes the best pepper grinder (personal opinion) but there is nothing wrong with other species as long as they add nothing to the pepper.
 
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Wood Selection

Russ,
Two questions. Is Walnut good wood for a pepper mill. I was given big chunks of walnut and mill some into blanks large enough for peppermills. Also what do you consider an edible oil finish. I have never used an oil finish. Only CA and laquer. Thanks for the info.
 
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