Fine tuning a blank

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Woodchipper

Woodchipper

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I recently made two pens for a local charity's silent auction. Both turned out nice, IMO, but the Slimline lower blank was a bit proud of the center band. Didn't measure it! Duh! I turn down with the roughing gouge to close dimensions. Anyway, I have experimented with turning the ends of a blank by using the toe of a skew, taking very light cuts and measuring frequently. Anyone else have a technique for precision turning pen blanks?
 
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I don't give up in turning it down - until it reaches the target measurement. I measure the pen parts and write them down. I NEVER measure by the bushings, NEVER! I stop frequently and measure. If I do happen to over turn, I make up with thick CA.

IF I am not using CA, then I am extra careful in turning and measuring. It is not hard. If you are not proficient with the skew, then use a scraper or turn the skew on its flat side and scrape. CLUE: Sharpen extra sharp and just "touch" the scraper/skew until it is to the correct size.

So, for me the technique is mental discipline - Measure with a good set of calipers and write down EACH measurement. Turn to that. Quit trying to turn it down, but scrape or cut minuscule amounts. Don't be afraid. I think my first "proud" pen was because I was afraid of over turning the blank. I learned how to "feel" the tool cutting and how to "touch" turn it and remove minuscule amounts. I learned to not be in a hurry and turn the blank down by .003 or .004 and even .001 when needed at a time.
 
I only use the bushing for a guideline and stop short of that dimension. I try not to rush turning but work slower as I get to the dimensions. I measure the pen parts as nib, center band, cap, etc. for final measurements. Good idea to write them down. The one pen was a synthetic so CA didn't come into play.
Never used the skew on a synthetic but have on wood. I used the skew as a scraper, either flat or a bit as a negative scraper. Got an "Oops!" when I lowered the handle and got a catch. Toss one blank.:mad:
Thanks, Lee.
 
Round skews are very manoeuvrable for this Hank and the extra weight can dampen any vibrations in your set up .
 
Woodchipper said:
I only use the bushing for a guideline and stop short of that dimension. I try not to rush turning but work slower as I get to the dimensions. I measure the pen parts as nib, center band, cap, etc. for final measurements. Good idea to write them down. The one pen was a synthetic so CA didn't come into play.
Never used the skew on a synthetic but have on wood. I used the skew as a scraper, either flat or a bit as a negative scraper. Got an "Oops!" when I lowered the handle and got a catch. Toss one blank.:mad:
Thanks, Lee.
Click to expand...
I have a notebook about 19 years old. It has the intructions for every pen type I have purchased in it. And on each individual set of instructions are the measurements of the nib/nose cone end, center band if it has one, and clip end. For the ones that required tenons, the caliper measurements for those also I wrote the measurements down in the instructions.

I will say that I still check the pen parts size on pens such as Slimlines, Sierra types (and others) with the calipers and compare it to the size I wrote down on the instructions when I first bought one. So far none of mine have changed sizes.
 
My answer to your specific situation is a custom center band. You can match up the barrels however you wish. Then you only have to be precise with the ends. I don't trust bushings in general. As much as I don't care for mandrels, a quality one that you trust to be straight makes easy work of the center band area.

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