filling voids/cracks in bowls

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
M

massmans

Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2008
Messages
267
Location
Columbia, MO, USA.
Up to now I have only used PR to make stoppers/kaleidoscopes/pens and all have been pressurized in HF paint pot.

I turn big bowls also and have some natural edge and regular bowls that I need to fill some cracks and voids. These bowls are too big to fit in the paint pot. Some of the problem areas are on the sides and some in the bottoms. These include drying cracks and bark inclusions and some open knots. So most likely they would have to be filled individually in stages to prevent the resin from going all over the place. .

So my question is what method would be best for using either PR or Alumilite to fill these voids and prevent bubbles. I was thinking of using a large heavy plastic bag and using a vacuum with PR or Alumilite. Sort of like using a veneer bag with vacuum. But didnt know how best to get the bowl into the bag in the correct orientation, and then pour the resin and prevent it from going all over the place. In the past I have used epoxy with pearlex and then attached painters tape on one side and then filled the void from the other side. But I always had bubbles or murkiness when using epoxy.

I am open to either Alumilite or PR but would prefer PR since I just ordered some more. I tend to think that Alumilite would be easier since the cure time is so much faster. I would be able to get the starter set of Alumilite from Hobby Lobby with their 40% coupons. So either resin is fine.

Thanks for the help and maybe this will get others think of different ways to use resins.

Steve
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
I can't answer any of your questions since most of the casting techniques are over my head anyway... would like to give it a try someday. Where do you find the Alumilite in Hobby Lobby?? I've looked all over the local store and can't find anything for casting.. and frankly clerks aren't much help.. they either don't know what I'm asking or don't care and aren't interested in helping customers.

I will be interested in the responses to your questions... I have some bowls that need some additional fill or something in cracks and voids too.
 
At our store I have seen it close to the model cars section and by the model train section.

I think I have seen the super kit in our store.
http://www.alumilite.com/Category.cfm?Category=Starter Kits




ozmandus said:
I can't answer any of your questions since most of the casting techniques are over my head anyway... would like to give it a try someday. Where do you find the Alumilite in Hobby Lobby?? I've looked all over the local store and can't find anything for casting.. and frankly clerks aren't much help.. they either don't know what I'm asking or don't care and aren't interested in helping customers.

I will be interested in the responses to your questions... I have some bowls that need some additional fill or something in cracks and voids too.
Click to expand...
 
Steve, in my opinion, it wouldn't be practical to fill voids in something big like that with either PR or Alumilite. Plus, I think it would really give a lovely wooden bowl a "plastic" or cheap look. Pens are often plastic anyway, so it's not much of a reach. But if you had a bowl with mostly voids, that's an art piece with the voids, and if you just have a few voids, why not just use crushed rock or shell and CA? WAY quicker, and frankly I think classier looking.

Just my 2 cents. But if you do try, I for one would love to see it! And Chuck, if you have a Michael's nearby, they have quarts of PR to get started with.

Dale
 
The voids and cracks are just a few and not a large amount of the bowl. I have thought of the crushed stones and that sort of stuff but would have to buy it off the internet and pay shipping so I thought I would try resins since I either have them or can get them locally.

BTW, the Michael's about 30 miles from home will offer out of towners a %50 off one item. You just have to ask at checkout.


spiritwoodturner said:
Steve, in my opinion, it wouldn't be practical to fill voids in something big like that with either PR or Alumilite. Plus, I think it would really give a lovely wooden bowl a "plastic" or cheap look. Pens are often plastic anyway, so it's not much of a reach. But if you had a bowl with mostly voids, that's an art piece with the voids, and if you just have a few voids, why not just use crushed rock or shell and CA? WAY quicker, and frankly I think classier looking.

Just my 2 cents. But if you do try, I for one would love to see it! And Chuck, if you have a Michael's nearby, they have quarts of PR to get started with.

Dale
Click to expand...
 
I think that if I were going to try to do this kind of thing that I would not worry about pressure or vacuum. I would create a small dammed area using clay and fill the crack using tinted PR. I would use care to avoid mixing in too many bubbles and then try to vibrate out as many of them as possible.

I would also probably reduce temperature and/or catalyst to extend the cure time to give a greater chance of eliminating any residual bubbles.
 
If i follow this method would it be beneficial to mix my PR in PP cups and then put them in the paint tank and pull a vacuum to get rid of the bubbles. Then pour into the void.

Just a thought.


sbell111 said:
I think that if I were going to try to do this kind of thing that I would not worry about pressure or vacuum. I would create a small dammed area using clay and fill the crack using tinted PR. I would use care to avoid mixing in too many bubbles and then try to vibrate out as many of them as possible.
Click to expand...
 
My intuitive reaction would be to avoid PR as a bowl fill. I'm not sure what the expansion/shrinkage is. The idea is interesting, though, especially if you can match up the resin using wood dust, etc.

Right now I use structural epoxy with on or another colorant - dumping some shavings in for good measure. This produces a pretty stable join that will hold against moderat stress until I can turrn the walls thin enought to relieve the pressure. I'm also experimenting with just leaving the crack as is and using butterfly wedges to 'stitch' up the crack.

Marc
 
Steve, when I have a crack or void in a bowl, I've used regular two part epoxy mixed with crushed instant coffee. No vacuum or pressure pots to worry about - put it in, let it dry for a day, turn it off.

PearBowl 002.jpg
 
I cast poly resin in open trays and rarely have bubbles unless I mess with the mix too late in it's cure. I would think that simply damming the void and allowing the resin time to soak in would work ok. I've been thinking about trying it myself sometime. I think the look would be fine as long as you use the right pigments. I do ave a pressure pot but haven't used it yet. I believe that Alumilite might penetrate better for a good bond, but this is just a thought based on what I've read here. You might want to stick the bowl on a scroll saw or other vibration device.
 
I disgarded the idea of Alumilite because it sets up too quickly to avoid any bubbles in the joint. That being said, Marc's point regarding PR shrinking is a good one. As such, I would probably go with Steve and use two-part epoxy. You can still dye it however you want.
 
depending on the cracks and voids, I use crushed turquoise or inlace from Craft Supply. sometimes in bigger bowls if they are big voids I just leave them. just depends on the piece.
 
You can use embossing powder and mix it with CA. It fills nicely and looks good, similar to powdered stone. You can find it and crushed stone in hobby stores.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom