Epoxy Stabilizing

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QuillandQuiver

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I am set up for stabilizing with a vacuum chamber and a pump but am looking for a one-step, no cook solution. Now, that is a pie-in-the sky idea. I don't know if it's even possible but I'm determined to try to find a way and here's what I have questions.

Has anyone tried impregnating wood with a thin epoxy resin?
What I have in mind is using a long-setting epoxy (stays liquid longer) under vacuum. My theory is that with a little coaxing, something like epoxy can work its way all the way down into a blank. Has anyone experienced that level of epoxy penetration (maybe while casting under pressure)?

I am not anti-Cactus Juice or anything like that. I'm just looking for a creative solution.
 
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i doubt that you will get the penetration needed. when you try add some color to the epoxy so you can easily see how deep it goes. I would still oven dry the blanks. The moisture in them fills areas that you want the epoxy in and the dryer it is the more it will absorb.
 
If you did get the penetration, I wonder how many days of cure time for the epoxy. I agree with Patrick on the penetration though. Plus…I get at least as much uptake of CJ in the hours of soak time after releasing the vacuum.
Earl
 
I cant imagine the clean up. Epoxy all over the vacuum chamber, hardened. If you use a secondary container in the vacuum chamber you still need to get the container off the 'stabilized' blank.
 
QuillandQuiver said:
I am set up for stabilizing with a vacuum chamber and a pump but am looking for a one-step, no cook solution. Now, that is a pie-in-the sky idea. I don't know if it's even possible but I'm determined to try to find a way and here's what I have questions.

Has anyone tried impregnating wood with a thin epoxy resin?
What I have in mind is using a long-setting epoxy (stays liquid longer) under vacuum. My theory is that with a little coaxing, something like epoxy can work its way all the way down into a blank. Has anyone experienced that level of epoxy penetration (maybe while casting under pressure)?

I am not anti-Cactus Juice or anything like that. I'm just looking for a creative solution.
Click to expand...
there are some wood hardening products sold (i.e.minwax, borma wachs) you could give a try, although i think that the "golden standard" is cactus juice and baking, cheers.
 
Here's my 2 cents. I've tried the Min Wax. There's a few different ways to use it and I used the vacuum method. It did help stiffen the wood fibers but I thought it wasn't worth the effort as far as stabilizing the blank. I've heard in the past that some were using Acetone to dissolve plexiglass and soaking the blanks in that. I bought a few blanks that were processed that way and they were awesome. If that's what was done I couldn't tell you for sure. One thing to keep in mind is that when your playing with chemicals is to be cautious of harmful fumes. I've talked to a guy that made knife blanks and he said some of the stuff that was used was very bad for your health. I'm no chemist but I do know some of the common stuff we use is very flammable so please don't kill yourself or burn your house down!! After saying all that Sometimes it's best just to go the proven way.
 
I have not done it but have some things to consider. Some epoxies may off gas or portions evaporate under vacuum, so the soaking time to get the air out of the wood could affect the curing or properties of the resin. If contemplating using a particular resin consulting with the maker as to the suitability of the resin under vacuum to see if it would break down could save wasting an expensive product. The viscosity of the epoxies, even the thin ones may be more than the Cactus Juice type resins reducing the penetration. Pressurizing after vacuum might have to be many times that can be applied with a paint pot type tank that we have available to us to get the resin in deep enough to achieve saturation. Trying to make a pressure vessel in the range of commercial systems is far beyond the capabilities of most of us and should be nondestructive tested and hydrostatically tested for safety in order to get the pressures needed for penetration. You can try and see what happens as some discoveries are made by accident or flying in the face of convention. Have a good new year trying. I'm curious to see what happens.
 
it is common to de-gas epoxy under vacuum for certain uses.
For this to work the epoxy would need to be very thin And very slow setting. Most of my experience is with LD. Even this is too thick and too fast.
 
I've seen epoxy used under vacuum (ex. turning resin and wood bowls, etc.) so I'm not so concerned with the process per se. I've also seen the Minwax method and I'm not very thrilled about it (I would rather use cactus juice than that because you can reuse it over and over without much waste!).

I have looked into a few Low Viscosity epoxies. This one in particular cites that it's used for "impregnating" but as of yet I have to find out in what way it's used for impregnating. https://theepoxyexperts.com/shop/impregnating-resins/carbon-fiber/max-1618-48-oz-epoxy-resin-clear-thin-4-casting-sealing-bonding-filling-use/
 
QuillandQuiver said:
I've seen epoxy used under vacuum (ex. turning resin and wood bowls, etc.) so I'm not so concerned with the process per se. I've also seen the Minwax method and I'm not very thrilled about it (I would rather use cactus juice than that because you can reuse it over and over without much waste!).

I have looked into a few Low Viscosity epoxies. This one in particular cites that it's used for "impregnating" but as of yet I have to find out in what way it's used for impregnating. https://theepoxyexperts.com/shop/impregnating-resins/carbon-fiber/max-1618-48-oz-epoxy-resin-clear-thin-4-casting-sealing-bonding-filling-use/
Click to expand...
Minwax and similar wood stabilisers are sold as products that stabilise rotten wood in order to be repaired(i.e. an old door frame) i don't think they are suitable to properly impregnate wood blanks
 
@MedWoodWorx I've heard of people using minwax under pressure to try to stabilize (as mentioned above) but I wouldn't be a fan of the product for the reasons you stated.

For those curious of the findings up to this point-
I have found some low viscosity epoxy resins along with epoxy additives that can lower the viscosity even a bit more. obviously if you thin too much you can mess with the properties of the epoxy…but for those familiar with the residential painting world, it reminds me of certain additives you can put in paint (I.e. That lower the viscosity or help with self-leveling). I'm still debating whether I'll commit the money to it yet (some molds, epoxy can be relatively expensive, etc) but that is the route I'm at least considering- lowest viscosity epoxy, with an additive, under pressure (with periodic releases) for as long as the curing properties will allow.
 
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