epoxy finish?

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studioso

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Feb 14, 2010
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Location
Montreal, qc, Canada
hi,
I went to a beautiful woodworking show this past weekend here next to Montreal, and I saw a fellow which had some amazing stuff, all coated in a nice, super shiny, wet, thick coat. I asked him if it was epoxy, and he says yes, 2 parts. but he then got busy with a potential costumer, and couldn't ask him for more details.
here is the guy's web site:
http://www.jacquescouture.com/jacquescouture.com/vases.html
he had the same finish on the few pens he had at the show, although you can't see the beautiful gloss on the pen pics on the web site. but you can see what I'm talking about on the vases.

any idea what finish is this?
can you brush on a 2 part epoxy leveling pouring finish? perhaps if you keep the lathe spinning bubbles will sort of get out on their own?

what if you dip a pen into that stuff? (plugging the tube somehow?
 
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I dont know if its the same, but a number of years ago I fiddled with making a long bow. I never tried it, but at the time there was talk of an epoxy finish. Basically empty both halves of the epoxy into acetone (the solvent) then brush it on.

Sorry, I dont know any details, but google might yield something for you.
 
The guys vases are definitely shiny, that is an amazing finish. It could be catalyzed Lacquer or even a polyurethane automotive finish, there used to be a paint called Imron that was a two part paint that was hard as could be, and had about the highest gloss around, we used to use it on our big boy toys.
 
Epoxy finish

If you can find a custom fishing rod builder in your area, he can probably teach you how to do the coating. Yes, you must keep the item turning slowly both while you are putting on the epoxy and while it is curing. You might also need a "clean room" or some kind of container while curing to keep out the dust which is always present. When mixing rod epoxy, you will get bubbles so I would thin the mixture with xylene which helped release the bubbles as will an alcohol lamp. But then, I haven't built any rods since Dale Clemens went out of business and that was probably 20 years ago. There are probably many newer materials available today. Good Luck!
 
I've used this:
GC_QUART_BOX_SMALL.jpg


I picked it up at Lowes for about $20. It's a 2 part epoxy. Leaves a thick almost wet looking finish. Here's a clock I made out of a chunk of cedar.
That's the cured finish.
 

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Yeah, I've used it many times before, is also know as "liquid gloss" or liquid glass"...!

Not easy to work with, unless is a totally flat surface but like anything in life, you can learn how to use it in curved surfaces like pen blanks...!:wink:


Cheers
George
 
I would advise not using rodbuilding finish, first it is not really formulated to work on wood and in some cases will peel completely off, first hand experience, Rod building epoxy is self leveling thus it needs to turn for about 3-4 hours or it will all drip off the low spot. products such as permagloss (urethane) used in rod finishing will work but you won't get a finish like the photos to many coats needed which will cause the finish to appear different when dry(eggshell) appearance.
Rumor has it a new type of finish for rodbuilding will be soon available one part but no idea if that will work on wood.
 
I know a guy who runs a recurve bow business and finishes all of the wood and fiberglass bows with 2 part epoxy and spray lacquer. He said he uses his finger to pat the epoxy on which leaves small finger print. He coats the entire bow this way then uses spray lacquer which fills in the finger prints and drys smooth. Iv been using one of his bows foe ten years now in rain and snow with no wear and it still looks brand new. Might be worth trying on a pen.
 
Should I dare mention his name again but Barry Gross does his pens like this and he has a video or CD out explaining this process. You may want to check into that. He also sells the stuff he uses.
 
Imron is still around. It is used in the aircraft industry quite a bit.
GK

The guys vases are definitely shiny, that is an amazing finish. It could be catalyzed Lacquer or even a polyurethane automotive finish, there used to be a paint called Imron that was a two part paint that was hard as could be, and had about the highest gloss around, we used to use it on our big boy toys.
 
i think what most folks are describing here is called "bar top finish". System 3 sells a product called Mirror Coat that is quite fantastic. However, it is expensive and I suspect might be fussy to apply to a pen. Bar top finishes are designed to be poured and as such have a fairly high viscosity and tend to self-level. The wet look is really fantastic. There are products of a similar nature (the name escapes me at the moment) that are designed for decoupage and the like. I have used it on plaques and the like.

I have been doing quite a lot of research of late looking for a FDA approved epoxy or polymer finish to use on goblets and mugs with out a great deal of luck. Along the way I have thought about how it would be applied to a pen or other turned objects. Dipping comes to mind but I am not sure how well that would work. Plus I do not know how well it could be polished out.

Doug
 
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