Dying wood

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chartle

chartle

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Ok this is a segmenting and dying question but the dying is the hard part.

For Xmas I want to make segmented ornaments. I've started with just some cherry and walnut and i've come up with a way to make small segments (small wedgie sled), glue them up into small rings, get them machined into consistent thickness (router jig), glued together, and turn them into balls.

So now thinking I want to make some of the pieces in red and green and by using the multiple ways to cut and assemble rings should be able to make some cool stuff.

So I've asked around and some suggest plain liquid dye coloring in alcohol. So I'm thinking of just using 91% Isopropyl Alcohol with the food color but wondering about whats the best technique.

I have the full gambit of entry level casting and stabilizing stuff. Inexpensive rotary vane vacuum pump, mason jar with PVC cap lid for chamber and a Harbor Freight pressure pot.

So thinking of cutting the segmented pieces, which are small triangular shaped and about the size of maybe a quarter and around 1/4" thick. Putting them under vacuum for as long as bubbles form and then putting them under pressure for some amount of time like overnight.

Maybe also thinking of drying them out a bit in a toaster oven before dying.

Does this make sense or could just dunk them in some alcohol with dye and let them soak?

I really need them dyed all the way through since I'll be cutting deep into them.

Oh also thinking of using maple but if I need something softer to let the dye soak in lighter colored poplar.

ETA: I did just find this. http://www.penturners.org/forum/f43/dye-wood-blanks-all-way-through-142963/
 

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Well trans tint dyes are some of the strongest pure color wood dyes. I have used them and I have also use Rit dyes (clothing dyes) and mixed with Denatured alcohol. If you use rubbing alcohol it is full of water and I believe that is not what you want to add to the project wood.
 
jttheclockman said:
Well trans tint dyes are some of the strongest pure color wood dyes. I have used them and I have also use Rit dyes (clothing dyes) and mixed with Denatured alcohol. If you use rubbing alcohol it is full of water and I believe that is not what you want to add to the project wood.
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I wouldn't use isopropyl rubbing alcohol which is traditionally 70% but 91 or 93% isopropyl.

Doing a little research and even DNA seems to have some water in it. 100% ethanol is pretty impossible. Since every time you open it it will suck water out of the air.

But my main issue is the process to get the dye all the way through the small hucks of wood.
 
Totally off base, but I would suggest you consider using some of the dyed plywood like Colorwood or CWP. The home brew dying of wood all the way through cannot match the commercial processes.

I have tried Trans Tint, RIT, bird toy dye and leather dyes, using pressure, vacuum and just weeks of soaking on maple blanks. It just didn't get the same dye penetration that a commercial set gets.
 
dogcatcher said:
Totally off base, but I would suggest you consider using some of the dyed plywood like Colorwood or CWP. The home brew dying of wood all the way through cannot match the commercial processes.

I have tried Trans Tint, RIT, bird toy dye and leather dyes, using pressure, vacuum and just weeks of soaking on maple blanks. It just didn't get the same dye penetration that a commercial set gets.
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I do have a box of those blanks and probably a red and green one but once cut them into strips for segments I lose a lot of wood.

I think I'm just going to use padauk for red or maybe try casting some strips.

Dying may still work since the way I cut my segments it has a lot of end grain exposed.
 
Ok I have some maple segments in DNA with red powdered food color under vacuum

I dont think its bubbling due to air but I'm vacuum boiling away the DNA. Well I needed to change my oil out anyway.

But as I right this the boiling is slowing down.:question:
 
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Keeping everything as cold as possible should help reduce the amount of boiling.

I'd suggest bloodwood over padauk for red. My experience with padauk is a pretty rapid darkening.
 
Ok I think for now just not going to try to get this working. I took it off vacuum and let it dry and nothing except a mess in my jar I use for smaller stuff.

So for now I think I'll try to get some slabs of this burl I have. I want to square it up to see how much solid wood I have to use and while doing that I'll try making some 1/4" pieces.

I'll post the result of what I posted above a little later once i set up my photo box thing.

Oh and I do have some dyed veneer I could use as an accent.
 
Dehn0045 said:
Keeping everything as cold as possible should help reduce the amount of boiling.

I'd suggest bloodwood over padauk for red. My experience with padauk is a pretty rapid darkening.
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I might grab a hunk of red heart from rockler. even at $12 or so per board foot. a 12 by 12 3/4" thick piece is a lot of wood for this application.
 
My woodworking mentor does intarsia, he uses mineral stained poplar for green. It is fairly common and inexpensive. I think he just looks through the stack of standard poplar to find his stuff. Here is a couple examples: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-4-Wide-Poplar-with-mineral-stain-15-x-58-/143011145546 http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/poplar/poplar, tulip 16a s50 plh.htm

Some people say verawood is green, I'm not so sure. I have come across Blue Mahoe pen blanks that are very green in color (colors range from gray to tan to green), but I haven't seen any blue mahoe planks available for sale so finding it might be a challenge (and fairly expensive).

Redheart is nice, but keep in mind that it will turn a lighter tan with age/sun exposure. You might want to choose something that will darken so that you keep a good contrast (BW, bubinga, or padauk (though I personally think padauk is more of a burnt orange color)). Given the application, redheart might be fine, probably not too much sun exposure for a Christmas ornament.
 
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I have done many birdhouse ornaments using the DNA and Rit dye method and had no problem coloring. I stained after the item was turned though.
 
chartle said:
jttheclockman said:
I have done many birdhouse ornaments using the DNA and Rit dye method and had no problem coloring. I stained after the item was turned though.
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Yes but I'm looking to dye all the way through since I have to turn it after I dye it.
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I understand but if your wood has thickness you are not going to make it happen. Even if the top area is deep color the more you turn off the lighter it will be. You are better to use spectraply woods where they use layers to get rich colors and they use higher pressure equipment than you have. Or use natures colors. Good luck:):)
 
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