dying, casting and stabilizing ?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

hanau

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2007
Messages
1,384
Location
thomasville, nc, USA.
What process would be best to Dye, cast and stabilize?

For example say you are using buckeye burl. with some voids in the wood.
Would you stabilize and dye at the same time then cast?
or cast then clean it up then stabilize and dye?

Using PR or Alumilite as the cast material.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
You wouldn't use either PR or Alumilite to stabilize. You would use Cactus Juice, or a similar product (is there one?), and add your dye to the CJ.

Then, once it's impregnated, if you have voids, you can recast with PR or Alumilite. CJ requires heat to cure it, so unless you have a large oven that you can put a pressure pot into, you'd need to recast it.
 
You should cast it first with the pr or alumalite and then dye and stabilize the pic of wood . Otherwise the cured resin will not let the pr/ alumalite to fill the voids . both of those products can take the heat cure . I have done it this way lots of times with no problems .
 
Last edited:
I have also used CJ and dye for small pieces of Big leaf maple burl, then put the pieces in a form and cast with PR under pressure for "worthless wood" type casting. Makes some very pretty pieces. All the little pieces don't even have to be the same colors!
 
You should cast it first with the pr or alumalite and then dye and stabilize the pic of wood . Otherwise the cured resin will not let the pr/ alumalite to fill the voids . both of those products can take the heat cure . I have done it this way lots of times with no problems .


This won't work because casting it first will seal the outside of the wood--not allowing the CJ to penetrate and stabilize.
 
Not if you clean up your casting on the table saw to expose the wood . You have to clean up the blank anyway . I have done it this way with no problems at all .
 
Not if you clean up your casting on the table saw to expose the wood . You have to clean up the blank anyway . I have done it this way with no problems at all .


Ah, yes, there is that option. You don't *have* to clean up a blank; as long as you can get a point stuck in one end, and a drive on the the other, you can turn it "clean".
 
You should cast it first with the pr or alumalite and then dye and stabilize the pic of wood . Otherwise the cured resin will not let the pr/ alumalite to fill the voids . both of those products can take the heat cure . I have done it this way lots of times with no problems .


This won't work because casting it first will seal the outside of the wood--not allowing the CJ to penetrate and stabilize.

Yep! I was kinda wondering how he planned to dye and stab. if he had already cast the piece ?????:confused::confused::confused:
 
Back
Top Bottom