Drilling blanks with PSI Dedicated Pen Drilling Chuck

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monark88

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2 part question. Is the PSI Dedicated Pen Drilling Chuck just another gadget or does it actually help in drilling over 3 jaw chucks?

At any rate, how do you drill resin and especially tru stone, without being able to keep blank well lubricated? Maybe something thick and substantive like lard or vaseline?
I'm not concerned about wood blanks.

I would like to give lathe drilling a try, especially with my 2 drills 50 miles away, til May.

An help or ideas appreciated.

Thanks Russ
 
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A little squirt of PAM works pretty good. Just wash out the hole afterwards so your adhesive will stick - or paint if you are reverse painting.
I use the PSI chuck on square blanks and a collet chuck on rounded blanks.
Either way works great.
gordon
 
I use the PSI Drilling Chuck on all my square pen blanks. In fact, I have given the drill press a permanent rest for this job. I have not experienced an issue with heat build up as I drill very slowly and use low RPMs on the lathe. I drill wood, acrylics, TruStone equally well and have not, at least to this point, used any lubrication.

One thing I do to prevent blow out is make sure I drill from both ends. I drill through the blank only until I see the very tip of point of the bit coming through. I then reverse the blank and drill out the last 1/16th or so.
 
I have had no problems what so ever drilling true stone or acrylic with my PSI drill chuck, I do use Bostic blade lubricant that doesn't leave any residue behind, and I also use the Colt drill bits. The lubricant can be bought from Wood Craft.
 
By far one of the best inventions that has come along recently. I highly recomend that chuck. Money well spent. I think they just came out with one that opens wider for things like bottle stoppers. That may interest you more.

The key to drilling on the lathe is shapr bits, sharp bits, sharp bits. Get it???? Heat is the enemy. I am sure many will post their methods of keeping the bit cool. I use simple denatured alcohol. I wet a rag and after every time I pull the bit out of the hole I cool the bit off with it. Works great for me. Also recomend getting a couple center bits too. Great for starting a hole dead on center.
 
I always start with a center drill and then a pilot hole first. Even when the blank is not square I still get a decent hole. I drill all my blanks on a metal lathe. I have never used any lubricants except when drilling aluminium blanks. The dedicated pen chuck is a decent piece of kit to have

Donovan
 
jttheclockman said:
By far one of the best inventions that has come along recently. I highly recomend that chuck. Money well spent. I think they just came out with one that opens wider for things like bottle stoppers. That may interest you more.

The key to drilling on the lathe is shapr bits, sharp bits, sharp bits. Get it???? Heat is the enemy. I am sure many will post their methods of keeping the bit cool. I use simple denatured alcohol. I wet a rag and after every time I pull the bit out of the hole I cool the bit off with it. Works great for me. Also recomend getting a couple center bits too. Great for starting a hole dead on center.
Click to expand...

Yep got it. I think I'll go with the larger for use also with bottle stoppers. I do have the center bits. Good info and thanks you.
Russ Darr
 
PSI drilling chuck

I use the PSI chuck with great success.

Keys to success:
1. Drill at slow speed. 2 cool and lubricate, i use water with little dish detergent in spray bottle. 3. Drill a little, clear waste, drill little more. 4. most importantly, back up your blank by gluing backer to prevent blowout. I know when I'm through when I get into the wood.

I have used this methodology with acrylic acetate, inlace, trustone and as pictured some Italian acetate.
 

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butchf18a said:
I use the PSI chuck with great success.

Keys to success:
1. Drill at slow speed. 2 cool and lubricate, i use water with little dish detergent in spray bottle. 3. Drill a little, clear waste, drill little more. 4. most importantly, back up your blank by gluing backer to prevent blowout. I know when I'm through when I get into the wood.

I have used this methodology with acrylic acetate, inlace, trustone and as pictured some Italian acetate.
Click to expand...

I will have to try the wood backer. Would never have thought of that. This chuck is a lot cheaper than what I have spent on drill vises over the past few years. I still have a vise in the box, never opened, still on the shelf. Used the "blue" one (at 89.00) and never liked that one.

Good info, all. Russ
 
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