Drill press spindle stroke

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GaryMGg

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Nov 23, 2006
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McIntosh, Florida, USA.
As some of you know, I'm living in two places.
My main shop has a great OWWM drill press with a 4" spindle stroke.
My secondary shop--where I am most of the time--has a tabletop Craftsman with a 2" stroke.
Of course, 2" is less than the length of most blanks.
Any good ideas for modifying the DP to obtain greater depth and maintain accuracy?
The vast majority of drilling would be for slimlines.

Thanks for your good thoughts.
 
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put a screw jack under the work table of the drill press and push the table up rather than the quill down?:eek::biggrin: Better yet a 20 ton hydraulic bottle jack. Now thats a Mans answer!:smile-big:
 
If you clamp system will allow it I have drilled to max depth, un-clamped and pushed the piece up the bit (drill off of course). Put a 2" block under the piece. Clamped again making sure the bit isn't binding and continued drilling. The initial hole should keep the bit running fairly true.


I have 6+ inches of tail stock travel on my lathe so I do most of my drilling there.
 
Once you have a 2" length drilled in the blank a drill bit will use the 2" as a guide and continue straight. Sort of like using a doweling guide.
 
... drilled to max depth, un-clamped and pushed the piece up the bit (drill off of course). Put a 2" block under the piece. Clamped again making sure the bit isn't binding and continued drilling. The initial hole should keep the bit running fairly true.

That's exactly what I used to do. My original drill press had just under 2" quill travel, this method worked until I was able to get another press with more travel.
 
Drill till the chuck almost hits the blank, turn it off and loosen the chuck a little, withdraw the head while leaving the drill bit in place and re tighten the chuck at the upper part of the drill bit shank then continue drilling,

You only need about a quarter inch or so grip on the shank since the bore the drill is in guides it the rest of the way and all you need to do is keep it turning and pressing downwards. You can usually get about another inch of drilling if you're careful and the bore is usually as true as if you had used a longer stroke drill press. The chuck needs to be in good condition, not worn out wobble at the tips of the jaws.

Alternatively, get a second drill bit that is longer and when you've reached the limit of the first bit put the longer bit in the hold and bring the chuck down on it to grip it then just keep drilling.
 
... drilled to max depth, un-clamped and pushed the piece up the bit (drill off of course). Put a 2" block under the piece. Clamped again making sure the bit isn't binding and continued drilling. The initial hole should keep the bit running fairly true.

That's exactly what I used to do. My original drill press had just under 2" quill travel, this method worked until I was able to get another press with more travel.

+ 1 ^...I know it may effect accuracy...but if that's what ya got...that's what ya got!
 
Toss it and buy a real drill press like this one :)

When you get real drill presses they have adequate quill travel. On mine here 11 1/2".

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Sorry, just had to show off my baby, she's over 100 year old and still pristine.
 

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She's not pristine but then again I use it all the time..

1911 W.F. & J. Barns Drill press.
Grandpa made a few mods like converting it from belt drive..
I would like to restore the old leather wheel and disk variable speed system someday.
IMGP7586.JPG


All set up and ready for action..
IMGP7675sm.JPG


I have no idea what the travel is.. I"ll have to measure when I get home.
 
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Thanks but unfortunately, the links to images only work if you're a member of the *.uk forum. :frown:

Doesn't cost anything to become a member - just two minutes to fill out a web form.

But the basic concept is for a jig that elevates the drilling platform by a half-inch or so.

A simpler solution is to have a couple of pieces of 3/4" MDF next to the drill press that can be stuck under the vise to elevate it a bit higher.
 
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