George,
Never thought about doing that. I would have to use a 'hard' blank, otherwise there would be severe sanding problems, with the hard/softer material.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Bob.
Probably not as many, as you may be thinking of, there is, will all depend of the method you would used for sanding.
Hand sanding with the fingers as the sandpaper backing, isn't reccomended for obvious reasons but, with a good finishing surface from the gauge(s) any rotary sanding tools such as electric sanders, etc., and with the lathe running, gentle passes with some fine grit such as 240 or 300, will be sufficient. The most important detail is having the lathe spin to the opposite direction of the electric pad sander, this is I found, the most effective way to sand/finish turned surfaces with various density parts...!
As I mention previously, that is a considerable waste of resin doing these things, reason why I suggested some special filling stuff sold by the resin people, this would also reduce considerably the chance of resin cracking and would brace most of the hardness of the PR, making the densities of both materials, wood and resin mix, a lot more closer...!
You can always find some of those small pods that will fit in the holes and use them with the resin, stack them up in the hole first (dry) and them pour your coloured resin in...! There are a few little technical issues here, suck as floating but that you can sort out quite easily.
Your drilled style bowls, offer a tremendous number of possibilities, indeed...!
Cheers
George