McKenzie Penworks
Member
Ok so I THINK I have this pretty well researched but was hoping someone would shed some light to give me a head start before I start playing around with blanks.
First, I know that I don't need to stabilize everything. However, to get the look I want, I'm pretty sure it's the only way. What I'm looking for is partially natural wood color and partial color. Like a marbled effect.
I've attached an example of one I've purchased.
My thinking is that I start with the clear first. Let the blank soak with no or little vacuum and get the soft parts. Here's where I'd love some guidance. How long do I start with? For reference material let's say a spalted fairly soft maple...
From there I think it's straight forward. Bake that in, sand excess off, and then put dyed color under full vacuum to get complete penetration.
I realize there are no shortcuts and each wood is going to vary a bit but was hoping someone has done similar and is willing to share to get me in the ballpark for that initial soak.
First, I know that I don't need to stabilize everything. However, to get the look I want, I'm pretty sure it's the only way. What I'm looking for is partially natural wood color and partial color. Like a marbled effect.
I've attached an example of one I've purchased.
My thinking is that I start with the clear first. Let the blank soak with no or little vacuum and get the soft parts. Here's where I'd love some guidance. How long do I start with? For reference material let's say a spalted fairly soft maple...
From there I think it's straight forward. Bake that in, sand excess off, and then put dyed color under full vacuum to get complete penetration.
I realize there are no shortcuts and each wood is going to vary a bit but was hoping someone has done similar and is willing to share to get me in the ballpark for that initial soak.