Jay--i'm not the expert, but Curtis suggests very dry, beyond the point of being able to use a moisture meter. If i understand the science correctly, any water vapor in the wood during the cure will add to the amount of juice that gets forced out of the wood. The wood still stabilizes if the moisture content is low enough, but it won't hold as much product.
I picked up a vacuum oven over the winter--and while water boils at 212 F in one atmosphere at sea level...at 29" of vacuum it boils at about 80 F. Moisture DOES mix with pump oil, and can lead to damage. My intent in the vacuum oven was to get a good stable curing temp (trying to stay at 190 in a toaster oven is impossible). But...i tried dying in the vacuum oven. First batch drew so much moisture so fast--i worried about trashing my pump!! Since then i'll pre-heat the oven to about 120 F, put my stock in, draw 29", isolate from the pump and let the temp rise to about 220 F slowly. I can get to super dry from EMC in around 12 hours (i was going 36 to 48 before).
Starting from "wet" like in freshly cut--you may have to slowly cook some of the moisture out before finishing in an oven. If you're in the Phoenix area--how about a solar kiln to speed that up???
earl