Disassemble slimline style pen

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You need a 3/4 inch or larger, block of wood 2-3 inches long, a 1/4 flat washer and a vise. Spare pen blank works.
Take the 3/4 square block of wood about 3 inches long, Drill a 1/4 hole through it lengthwise.
Take a hack saw or simular saw and cut a slot down the hole about an inch to 1/1/4.
Put the 1/4 steel flat washer on the pen you want to remove the transmission from and stick the transmission in the slotted hole in the block of wood. Clamp the wood block in a vise with the pen sticking up and the vise clamping the slot closed. Leave a little room between the pen, washer and block of wood, stick two flat bladed screw drivers under the washer, one on each side, and pry the washe up evenly. You can either remove it entirely or adjust it if you sank it too low to start with.
 

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I certainly like the method that @mredburn has described above.

I am going to try it, even tho' I do not have a present need to disassemble a slimline pen.

One variation I am also going to try is to use 2 washers, inserting the flat-blade screwdrivers between them.
In this way, I would hope to avoid damaging the end of the wood which clamps around the slimline transmission,
thereby extending the life of that wood .

I would expect, when fully removing a transmission in this way, that during the process, it may be necessary to adjust the position at which the vise grips the wood surrounding the transmission .
 
Well, I got it apart with transfer punches. The reason I needed to take it apart is that the refill wouldn't thread into the transmission. Come to find out I needed to drill out the tip, and I had pressed the transmission too far. Well, after I finally got it put back together, the cap won't grip the transmission. So you can't extend the refill. I'm about ready to give up on this pen.
 

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Well, I got it apart with transfer punches. The reason I needed to take it apart is that the refill wouldn't thread into the transmission. Come to find out I needed to drill out the tip, and I had pressed the transmission too far. Well, after I finally got it put back together, the cap won't grip the transmission. So you can't extend the refill. I'm about ready to give up on this pen.

".... the cap won't grip the transmission." . . . . Hmmmm . . . . Is the cap merely "slipping around" the transmission ?

I am wondering if the transmission diameter has mysteriously decreased in the process of removal and replacement .
(Some transmissions have "ridges" to increase the friction between transmission and upper barrel tube.)

Don't know what to suggest . . . . . someone else might have an idea.
 
I hope you can find a solution that works. It is a very attractive pen. - Dave
Thank you Dave. I've had this problem with slimline pens in the past. Sometimes I've been able to squeeze the transmission with pliers to make it "oval" shaped, so the cap can grab it. I tried that with this one, but it didn't work. I have another kit, I need to see if the transmission in that kit fits tight in this cap.
 
Hmm, I take it the transmission does function properly without the top half slid down on it? Should be easy to rob a transmission from another kit. They are pretty cheap to buy.

That is a nice looking pen. What kit is it? The center band doesn't look familiar.

@mredburn I like that method. It sounds like there is a lot less potential to damage pen, or fingers, or...?
 
Hmm, I take it the transmission does function properly without the top half slid down on it? Should be easy to rob a transmission from another kit. They are pretty cheap to buy.

That is a nice looking pen. What kit is it? The center band doesn't look familiar.

@mredburn I like that method. It sounds like there is a lot less potential to damage pen, or fingers, or...?
Yes, the transmission functions properly without the cap. I just tried the cap with a new transmission from another kit, and it does grab it enough to rotate it, but it does slip relatively easily. Another trick I've used in the past it to spread CA inside the tube in the cap, and let it dry thoroughly. Sometimes that's enough to grab the transmission.

The kit is a Mogul from Woodturningz, and the blank is a Color Grain Oasis from PSI. The finish is Pens Plus.


 
I've experienced "transmission slippage" from time to time, usually after I've been over-aggressive with cleaning gunk out of the barrel. It's second on my list of upper barrel annoyances after a clip that spins between the body and finial post.

I've cured the slippage by using a spring punch along the edge of the transmission to create a few dimples. In other cases, I used a fine-tip pliers to "mushroom" a lip around the rim of the transmission so the upper tube would grab it. That way the inkfill screws in and out easily.
 
I've experienced "transmission slippage" from time to time, usually after I've been over-aggressive with cleaning gunk out of the barrel. It's second on my list of upper barrel annoyances after a clip that spins between the body and finial post.

I've cured the slippage by using a spring punch along the edge of the transmission to create a few dimples. In other cases, I used a fine-tip pliers to "mushroom" a lip around the rim of the transmission so the upper tube would grab it. That way the inkfill screws in and out easily.
I've never thought about bending the top edge out. I'll try that.
 
The kit is a Mogul from Woodturningz, and the blank is a Color Grain Oasis from PSI. The finish is Pens Plus.
Thanks. I like it. Looks a bit thicker than a standard slimline. That would work great for those "plastics" that just don't look as good in a thin layer.

The slippage does seem like it would be more of an issue with the upper tube than the transmission itself. I'd think a coating of CA would wear away before too long, but Brian's trick sounds like a good bet. It might be easy to overdo that, though.
 
You need a 3/4 inch or larger, block of wood 2-3 inches long, a 1/4 flat washer and a vise. Spare pen blank works.
Take the 3/4 square block of wood about 3 inches long, Drill a 1/4 hole through it lengthwise.
Take a hack saw or simular saw and cut a slot down the hole about an inch to 1/1/4.
Put the 1/4 steel flat washer on the pen you want to remove the transmission from and stick the transmission in the slotted hole in the block of wood. Clamp the wood block in a vise with the pen sticking up and the vise clamping the slot closed. Leave a little room between the pen, washer and block of wood, stick two flat bladed screw drivers under the washer, one on each side, and pry the washe up evenly. You can either remove it entirely or adjust it if you sank it too low to start with.
I tried your method, and it worked well. But the damaged transmission broke off, so I had to use transfer punches after all.
 

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I want to state that I found this posted by a member on The Pen Makers Guild forum a long time ago. I went back to try and find the original poster for proper credit, but the forum is gone and I dont remember who the author was.
 
I just had the same problem with the Mogul kit tonight. The transmission grips tight in lower barrel and upper barrel before inserting into bottom barrel. Once its inserted into bottom barrel it is loose as a goose.So I took it apart and tried with a new transmission from another mogul kit. Same issue all nice and tight before assembly, but loose after pressing into bottom barrel. I decided to see if a slimline transmission is the same and it is not ,tried one and it is slightly loose on bottom barrel, I can set it in place with just hand pressure but it is nice and snug on top barrel. So I Ca glued the transmission to bottom barrel this time had to use a press , guess the Ca and Activater made up for the slight looseness, low and behold now it's loose at the upper barrel again ,but not as bad. So I just a piece of the kit baggie over the refill and push top barrel on. Nice and snug no slipping. But man can't sell this pen. Will be calling Woodturningz on Monday. Think it is a kit issue.
 
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