Difficulty with Silmar

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stuckinohio

stuckinohio

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Joined
May 3, 2015
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Columbus Ohio
Hello,

I started out using alumilite water clear and had great results,then went to alumilite clear and also had great results. Of course I am going through resin quickly and alumilite is expensive, so I decided to change to a different type or resin.

I bought a gallon of Silmar 41 and started using that. Wow, what a difference and so much more difficult. I'm having a big problem with color bleed/mixing. Also can't get the hardness thing right.

I was used to alumilite heating up so I know when to pour and keep the colors separate. This silmar doesn't heat up until long after it's already poured. I have been waiting for it to get a little thick,then pour but it takes forever to thicken and when it does, it goes straight to too thick

I first tried 10 drops of hardener per 1 ounce or resin,but that took three days to harden. So I tried 150 drops for 8 ounces next time, but I still can't get the whole color mixing thing.

Any tips?
 
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Silmar 41

I use but 3 drops of MEK per ounce? I preheat the Silmar in a cup in a Ultrasonic jewelry cleaner from Harbor Freight. I stir for 2 minutes and then add the hardener and stir another 2 minutes to mix thoroughly then pour, no problems here with this procedure. I do not use a pressure pot but I do vibrate the full mold on top of a old grinder with a unbalanced wheel . Good luck..Jan
 
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150 drops per 8 oz!!! :eek::eek::eek:

I use 4 to 7 drops of mekp per oz. With my schedule, I pour my blanks and take them out at the same time the next day and they're ready to turn.

On pouring with colors, I wait for the resin to start to gel, about 10 to 12 mins depending on how much mekp I've added, then pour.



Harry
 
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If you are using Alumilite dyes, that's your problem. PR uses different dyes. Mica powders work, but don't all cure at the same rate. I use dyes from US Composits for Silmar.

I use 4 drops per ounce. I try to pre-heat my resin up to about 80 degrees. At that temp, I pour at about 16 to 18 minutes. Different colors react differently, so more or less time is needed. I had some troubles when I went from PR to alumilite. Each has it's own learning curve.

EDIT: I also use a timer to make sure of my timing.
 
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BSea said:
If you are using Alumilite dyes, that's your problem. PR uses different dyes. Mica powders work, but don't all cure at the same rate. I use dyes from US Composits for Silmar.

I use 4 drops per ounce. I try to pre-heat my resin up to about 80 degrees. At that temp, I pour at about 16 to 18 minutes. Different colors react differently, so more or less time is needed. I had some troubles when I went from PR to alumilite. Each has it's own learning curve.
Click to expand...

Ahh. I am using alumilite dies as well as mica powders! I guess that's the problem. Thank you for that!
 
BSea said:
If you are using Alumilite dyes, that's your problem. PR uses different dyes. Mica powders work, but don't all cure at the same rate. I use dyes from US Composits for Silmar.

I use 4 drops per ounce. I try to pre-heat my resin up to about 80 degrees. At that temp, I pour at about 16 to 18 minutes. Different colors react differently, so more or less time is needed. I had some troubles when I went from PR to alumilite. Each has it's own learning curve.

EDIT: I also use a timer to make sure of my timing.
Click to expand...

Hi Bob,
..are you using a infrared thermometer to check the temperature?Thanks..Jan
 
I will also try heating up the resin before hardener is added too. I'm happy to know about the dye for sure. Now I have to wait to get new dyes!

If mica causes problems, what is recommended to achieve the metallic or pearl look?

Thank you everyone for all the good answers also. I appreciate it.
 
I don't know what the columbus idea foundry is, but it sounds promising! I'll check it out. I have some good ideas, but not much skill.
 
Janster said:
BSea said:
If you are using Alumilite dyes, that's your problem. PR uses different dyes. Mica powders work, but don't all cure at the same rate. I use dyes from US Composits for Silmar.

I use 4 drops per ounce. I try to pre-heat my resin up to about 80 degrees. At that temp, I pour at about 16 to 18 minutes. Different colors react differently, so more or less time is needed. I had some troubles when I went from PR to alumilite. Each has it's own learning curve.

EDIT: I also use a timer to make sure of my timing.
Click to expand...

Hi Bob,
..are you using a infrared thermometer to check the temperature?Thanks..Jan
Click to expand...
No, I've thought about it though. It's really just a rough estimate. I use a heater during winter, and I put my resin out in the warming garage about an hour before I pour. In the summer I put it out about 30 minutes before I turn on the air. My garage rarely gets below 75 with the air, so the resin stays in the 80 degree range. Scott has used those thermal strips a few times, but it's more trouble than it's worth.

The next time I see one of those infrared thermometers on sale at HF, I may pick one up. And thanks Mark for the compliment.
 
mark james said:
Just a random comment...

Jan, Bob and Harry - kudos to each of you. We b..tch about folks not answering questions/or being polite... But each of you gave very helpful suggestions! We also need to acknowledge stuff like this!!!

Oh, I have no help to offer - sorry!!! :)
Click to expand...


Thank you Mark

When I first joined the IAP, I didn't ask questions because I seen others asking a question and get a reply that was either rude, or a person would take the time to type a sentence that made a newbie feel embarrassed or incompetent for asking, when in that time frame could of typed "this is how I do it or this is what your doing wrong".......or just kept his thoughts to them selves.

Sorry didn't mean to hijack or steer this in a different direction.
Ask anyone that KNOWS me, I'll give and help anyone, just have to ask.



Harry
 
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