Delta 1460

[Alchemist]

Over the weekend I was given a Delta 1460. At least that is what I believe it to be. It was stored in a barn. It's in pretty good condition!

So far, I unseized the 3-jaw chuck.
Disassemblied the head for new bearings.

This is the problem… the semi-original (because I really don't know) is a two prong spliced in lamp wire.

It is set for 110v. Should I try and make it a 3-prong with a ground or keep it 2-prong?

my Laguna 12/16 is out of commission and while I can't do anything about it, I decided I'd work on this.

Laguna customer service is really not good!

So, any help is appreciated!

- David
@alchemist_woodwork

 

[jttheclockman]

Make it a 3 prong and just ground the case of the motor.

 

[Alchemist]

Make it a 3 prong and just ground the case of the motor.

That's what I was thinking of doing. I have 8 feet of 12 gauge cable and a three prong to rewire it. I was reading about older vintage machines can be "double insulated"?

My shopsmith ER10 is a three prong as well, but I didn't do it.

So, pretty much just take the new wire that goes to the on/off switch and use a base bolt to secure it to the case?

 

[jttheclockman]

Yes if the switch has a ground screw then just double up or splice another going to motor housing. You are looking to ground the entire lathe and the motor is metal attached to a metal frame so everything in contact will be grounded. #12 is good.

 

[Alchemist]

Similar to this highly detailed drawing?

Yes if the switch has a ground screw then just double up or splice another going to motor housing. You are looking to ground the entire lathe and the motor is metal attached to a metal frame so everything in contact will be grounded. #12 is good.

 

[Alchemist]

Thanks John!

 

[Alchemist]

Make it a 3 prong and just ground the case of the motor.

 

[jttheclockman]

Yes basically what you are looking to do is ground the switch and the motor housing. All other parts of the lathe are connected by mechanical means so they will be grounded. If the switch box is plastic then no need to ground that box but there should be a green screw on the switch unless it is a bat handle toggle switch then it will not have one then ground the box only if it is metal and the motor. The motor needs a ground no matter what. Somehow you have to ground all tools.

 

[Alchemist]

Yes basically what you are looking to do is ground the switch and the motor housing. All other parts of the lathe are connected by mechanical means so they will be grounded. If the switch box is plastic then no need to ground that box but there should be a green screw on the switch unless it is a bat handle toggle switch then it will not have one then ground the box only if it is metal and the motor. The motor needs a ground no matter what. Somehow you have to ground all tools.

Got it! The switch is old and the box is metal. I may replace the actual switch.

 

[jttheclockman]

Got it! The switch is old and the box is metal. I may replace the actual switch.

The whole lathe looks old. I bet the switch does not even have a green screw on it. I would replace with a 20 amp rated switch. You want a good quality switch being it is getting turned on and off alot.

 

[monophoto]

Make it a 3 prong and just ground the case of the motor.

Agree - - - but I would add that you should replace the power cord entirely. If its dinosaur-era lamp cord, the insulation has likely dried out enough that its dangerous. Also, its only two conductors, and you would need three. You can buy three-conductor power cable at any decent hardware store. My experience is that you should estimate how long you will need, and then make it twice that long so that you have flexibility to make the location changes you think of later.

 

[jttheclockman]

Agree - - - but I would add that you should replace the power cord entirely. If its dinosaur-era lamp cord, the insulation has likely dried out enough that its dangerous. Also, its only two conductors, and you would need three. You can buy three-conductor power cable at any decent hardware store. My experience is that you should estimate how long you will need, and then make it twice that long so that you have flexibility to make the location changes you think of later.

I thought he was doing that. If not that is a good suggestion. Todays wire is superior to years ago.

 

[Mike]

As mentioned above, I would definitely replace that switch and all the cord. Looks dangerous. Switch contacts could be corroded.
Make sure you are switching the hot side of the 120VAC and not the neutral.

Mike

 

[Alchemist]

The whole lathe looks old. I bet the switch does not even have a green screw on it. I would replace with a 20 amp rated switch. You want a good quality switch being it is getting turned on and off alot.

The lathe is old! From the late 40's to early 50's. I will be changing the switch.

 

[Alchemist]

Agree - - - but I would add that you should replace the power cord entirely. If it's dinosaur-era lamp cord, the insulation has likely dried out enough that it's dangerous. Also, it's only two conductors, and you would need three. You can buy three-conductor power cable at any decent hardware store. My experience is that you should estimate how long you will need, and then make it twice that long so that you have flexibility to make the location changes you think of later.

I have 8 feet of 12 gauge electrical wiring to replace all the old wires from motor to switch to prong. Nice thick industrial stuff from Ace. Also, a new three prong plug!

 

[Alchemist]

I'll add that someone did actually use an old two prong lamp cable as well.

 

[Mike]

Back in the 80s we bought a house built in 1910. That wiring reminds me of some of the stuff in the guy's garage when we toured the house.
I was given an old Porter Cable belt sander and it had lamp cord that was cracking. I never plugged it in. Put it on CL as is and got a little cash for it.

Mike