Deer Antler Tips

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Steve68

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Hello all,

I just picked up some deer antler for pen blanks for the first time, but I've never worked with it before so I'm not exactly sure what to expect (other than the smell when turning!) . Any tips for an Antler newbie?

Most of my tools as HSS - I assume they will dull quickly on the antler?
Is there a finishing process for antler?

Thanks in advanced for any tips!!
 
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There are some YT videos on it. I have a thread over in blank making forum about turning antler, as well as a thread in the metal lathes forum. I've only turned it once so far but got some good advice in those threads.

You should wear a respirator--antler/bone dust is very bad for you. My piece was very soft under the "skin". I couldn't even sand it 'til it was well slathered with CA. It turned easily, though bear in mind that I use a metal cutter bit on my metal lathe, so YM will probably V.

After getting enough CA on it to finally fill the pores, I sanded as normal and finished with CA/BLO. It came out pretty good, I think.
 
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Thank you, that's good advice. Wasn't expecting it to be soft underneath - but it makes sense now, though. I'll check out the threads you mentioned too.

Thanks!!!
 
Be SAFE with the respirator.. if you smell it.. you need a better respirator.

Drilling the tube hole can be tough... it is not easy to hold. there are videos on that as well.

It will take a lot of CA, but the results are great! have fun with it!
 
Steve68 said:
Hello all,

I just picked up some deer antler for pen blanks for the first time, but I've never worked with it before so I'm not exactly sure what to expect (other than the smell when turning!) . Any tips for an Antler newbie?

Most of my tools as HSS - I assume they will dull quickly on the antler?
Is there a finishing process for antler?

Thanks in advanced for any tips!!
Click to expand...

HSS will be fine if it's sharp. I have no idea how much antler I've done over the years, let's just say a lot. You should not smell it while turning, it's when sanding and it gets hot. Don't get it hot. Let your tools (skews, sandpaper ect) do the job and don't try and force them. They could also crack if too hot...again, hot is bad.

You can finish them just like any other pen/project. Many times I don't use CA and just polish the antler. Old racks that have spent time in the sun will be white and powdery. Fresh racks will be hard with a soft core. If they are all fresh and soft, you can store them and they will firm up over months.

You should be using some type of respirator anyways when working.

If you do any casting or consider casting later, save your tips. I cut them into sections and apply them to tubes and cast in resin. You can also use the tips for keychains or light pulls. I even bust and cut them into pieces and cast in resin. Really pretty effect.
 
A respirator is mandatory.

I turn antler using carbide tools but twist them to about 45 degrees so they're shear-scraping...makes nice tight curly shavings that look like shredded coconut. Very little sanding required.

I hit them with BLO and CA but keep the total pile of CA layers very thin. I don't want the antler to look like it's encased in plastic...

For drilling, I grip the antler piece in a hand screw. That lets me easily position it under the drill press' bit...longer pieces need a block or three of scrap under the hand screw to make room for the excess antler that dangles below the hand screw. I use a large hand screw like these (not sure what brand I have but that doesn't matter): http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-LHS-10-10-Inch-Handscrew-Clamp/dp/B001AQMDBM
 
Steve; Here are my observations on turning White Tail antlers. It's true, the older the buck, the stiffer the horn. Large horns tend to be much more dense and easier to turn and drill. Sheds that have been exposed to sun, weather , and winter are better than a fresh kill. Look at rummage or yard sales for old mounts or loose horns. I have seldom, if ever, used CA on any pens that I have turned out of horn. Paste wax or polish is all I ever use. CA will give you an unnatural glassy finish, but that may be what you want. Cut your antler to rough length, and drill on the lathe using a pen blank drilling chuck on one end, and start your hole on the other end with a centering drill. Make sure your antler is large enough to drill a straight hole from center to center allowing for the curve found in most antlers. Soaking your antler in hot water and clamping in a vice can straighten out some curve. No matter what you do that sickening smell is going to last for a while in your shop !! Jim S
 
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Thanks everybody for the GREAT advice! I appreciate it! Good information from all!

Respirator is out and ready for use!!!

Thanks again!!
 
Other than the tips above - I always put a couple of coats of thin CA on antler. I don't know if it is necessary but I like to seal antler. Sand it good and then polish
As others have said:
WEAR A GOOD RESPIRATOR
 
Deer and elk antler

I work with deer or elk antler ( shed's ) allot.

If you are turning the antler round and you are using a engine lathe I use a live cutter on my tool post . Ridgid veneer trimmer /router bits.

Then I will drill the center on the lathe.

Sometime I will fill the center with some very thin epoxy ( west systems 105/206 hardener ) Or I will put thin ca in side and re drill the antler.


The surface of the antler looks tons better if you buff it out on a buffing wheel ........

Then I will do either a CA Finish or a epoxy finish...

Regardless what you use the antler should be sealed..

Ps I have been using used coffee grounds as a stain on some of my machined antler work.
I will soak the ( ends )of antler in the coffee grounds .

Good luck
 
Thanks! Some great tips I will definitely consider. I'll give the buffing wheel a run and I love the coffee grounds tip. I may play with that soon.

Thanks!!!


farmer said:
I work with deer or elk antler ( shed's ) allot.

If you are turning the antler round and you are using a engine lathe I use a live cutter on my tool post . Ridgid veneer trimmer /router bits.

Then I will drill the center on the lathe.

Sometime I will fill the center with some very thin epoxy ( west systems 105/206 hardener ) Or I will put thin ca in side and re drill the antler.


The surface of the antler looks tons better if you buff it out on a buffing wheel ........

Then I will do either a CA Finish or a epoxy finish...

Regardless what you use the antler should be sealed..

Ps I have been using used coffee grounds as a stain on some of my machined antler work.
I will soak the ( ends )of antler in the coffee grounds .

Good luck
Click to expand...
 
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