Deal alert: casting resin

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ecrouse

ecrouse

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Was in Michael's today and picked up 6 of the 32oz Amazing Clear Cast kits (alumilite) for 19.95ea on clearence (reg$34.99). That puts it at the same cost per oz as a 2gal kit of clear slow. ACC has about a 30min open time too, which I really like but some may not.

Not sure if this is just at the one I happened to go to or all of them but it wasnt advertised it just rang up the way at the register. Good luck!

If you want to dabble in casting but aren't ready to drop $200 on a big batch this is a great deal.
 
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Apparently your store is different than the stores I've been to. The resin Michaels and Hobby Lobby sells is a PR Resin. Polyester Resin. It has a very high odor when using. I looked up the wording you used and it is listed as Alumilite which is a Polyester Resin. If that's the case I would purchase some. Thanks for sharing.
 
I am confused and I would be a bit wary, because on the technical info for the Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast (ACC) I see the word "Epoxies".
Going to tag along with this thread to see what others might have to say about this.

I went to the tech data referenced on this web page: https://www.alumilite.com/products/casting-resins/amazing-clear-cast

Here is a cut/paste of what I read there:

Amazing Clear Cast


Alumilite's Amazing Clear Cast is a clear casting and coating system that cures to a rigid, durable, clear plastic. Use Amazing Clear Cast for coating or finishing applications such as bar tops, floors, taxidermy scenery, lenses, and all sorts of other clear casting or coating applications.
  • Easy to use, 1:1 mix ratio system that cures in 24 hours.
  • Can be colored with Alumilite dyes, alcoholic inks, or other non-water base colorants.
  • Complies with FDA 21 CFR 175.300
NOTE: Epoxies in their unmixed state will naturally yellow with time and are NOT recommended over white or any background in which the material's change in color will affect the appearance of the item. It is recommended for high gloss coating over colors or surfaces whereas yellowing of epoxy will not be noticed or an issue. Yellowing of the hardener can occur in as soon as 30-60 days. Yellowing does not affect ultimate cure of product when properly measured, thoroughly mixed, and fully cured.
 
Kenny Durrant said:
Apparently your store is different than the stores I've been to. The resin Michaels and Hobby Lobby sells is a PR Resin. Polyester Resin. It has a very high odor when using. I looked up the wording you used and it is listed as Alumilite which is a Polyester Resin. If that's the case I would purchase some. Thanks for sharing.
Click to expand...


Michael's and Hobby Lobby both sell PR and Epoxy resins. I have used both. The resin I am speaking of in the OP is an Epoxy resin.

Castin Craft is the PR resin I buy at either store and it turns great. As you mention, it is high odor and works differently than an epoxy resin. I like PR because it has a "gel state" between liquid and fully cured and I can manipulate it while it is in that gel state to get some cool patterns. I also like that I have "infinite" time to work with the liquid resin and get the color just how I want it, then I add the correct number of drops of catylist and my cure timer starts.

Both pens I posted in this thread were cast using Castin Craft PR resin.

Techniques for casting faux stone patterns

Hi all, been searching the casting forum and resources sections but all I keep coming up with are people asking for techniques and here I am starting another thread asking for techniques. Below was a first go at it and it turned out alright but I'd really like thinner, more defined webbing...
www.penturners.org

The resin I'm talking about in this thread is Amazing Clear Cast which is an epoxy resin made by Alumilite. Alumilite does not make a polyester resin that I am aware of but I certainly don't know everything :)

It is low odor and mixed equal parts A and B by volume, NOTE: other Alumilites are A&B by WEIGHT so if you do buy this stuff make sure to take note of that as the A is considerably lighter than the B and you'll mess it up if you weigh it. I like the longer open times over their 7 or 12 minute stuff because I mix up the resin for 3-4 minutes then stick it in the vac chamber to degas for 5 mins before I add any colors so it can get hairy on multi color pours with short open times.

The pen I posted in 'Continents' was made using Amazing Clear Cast Epoxy resin

Continents

You've probably heard the story if you visit the casting sub, but I found some rotten wood in my yard and decided to toss it in the vac chamber and turn it in to a pen. This is the result. Well, one of five potential results. I love the "flying over a planet" feeling it gives. Hence the name...
www.penturners.org

I mostly only use the PR when I want to do something with the gel state, otherwise I use epoxy.

Of note, with the standard 40% off coupon you can always get at Michael's the 32oz ACC kit is normally $21 and some change which still makes it a good deal but you can only get one kit per visit (coupon restriction). Today I brought my mother in law and wife so I could game the system and get 3 kits, when i found out they were "on clearance" cheaper than my coupon price and no limit on quantity I went back and grabbed all they had, which was 6 kits.

Hobby Lobby will not honor their coupon for ACC (they call it a 'your price' item) but they will discount Castin Craft PR resin so I buy that at either place but I only get the ACC at Michael's.

Wow, this post got way longer than I meant, sorry about that. Hopefully it helps someone out though.
 
@magpens What would you be wary of, the yellowing or just that it is an epoxy based resin?

Alumilite clear and slow are urethane resins, so less prone to yellowing but it is still an issue. It is not listed on the main Clear page but it is in the technical data sheet.

8. Color Stability Alumilite Clear and Water Clear do NOT contain any MERCURY and are cured using a much safer tin catalyst. Mercury cure systems typically have better UV stability than tin systems which are not known for long term color stability. The health and safety benefits of not using Mercury outweigh the expectation of some yellowing over time. Although clear castings do not typically change drastically, you should expect some change in color. If color is added, typically no color change is ever noticed.

I do know Mesquite Man did a resin write up about the differences in Alumilite formulations and DID NOT recommend ACC for pen casting due to the slow cure time but to me that is an advantage. More time to work with it, more time to get the bubbles out before it sets up.

I guess I should have also included that, it is 6 to 8 hours before you can even think about demold, sometimes overnight, so it is a different animal than Alumilite Clear but that is again an advantage to me so I didn't think to mention it. So thanks for bringing it up I'd hate to mislead anyone who didn't know the differences. I love the stuff.

Went and found MM's thread in case anyone cares to read.

Differences in Alumilite forumlations

Fist, let me state specifically and to the point, I do not work for, nor get paid by Alumilite in any way. I am just a very happy customer that has had the privilege of working closely with Mike Faupel, the owner, over the last 6 or 7 years. I thought I would state thins since I just did some...
www.penturners.org
 
@ecrouse

Why I used the word "wary" .....

Ever since my introduction to Alumilite I have had the (mis)understanding that it is a unique type of resin.
I learned only late today that it is the name of a company that makes a variety of resins, some of which are urethane-based, some Epoxy, etc.

So for me to say "Here is a great deal on Alumilite !" is, at best, ambiguous.

And for me to say that I want some Alumilite blanks is equally unclear. . But that's the way I have been using "Alumilite".

Until I know what I am talking about, I need to be careful.
And until I know what I am reading about and hearing about, I need to be wary !

But I don't mean "wary" in any negative sense .... please understand that.

Thank you for your helpful post immediately above.
 
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Thanks guys for clearing up my mistake. The Alumilite I was referring to is the urethane resin. I've been experimenting with some different thing and got my names mixed up. I guess my original intent was to make sure the two stores mentioned carried resins other than the PR and Epoxy resins. I do realize Alumilite is a brand but I guess I've been accustomed to assuming when the name is used it's a particular product. I've forgotten that Michaels does carry the epoxy resin as well. Thanks again for the original post and to the others for clearing up my mistake. The 40% coupon can make a big difference when buying some things. As far as one per trip I go by a store often so it's no big deal for me to stop by and pick something up.
 
Thanks guys for clearing up my mistake. The Alumilite I was referring to is the urethane resin. I've been experimenting with some different things and got my names mixed up. I guess my original intent was to make sure the two stores mentioned carried resins other than the PR and Epoxy resins. I do realize Alumilite is a brand but I guess I've been accustomed to assuming when the name is used it's a particular product. I've forgotten that Michaels does carry the epoxy resin as well. Thanks again for the original post and to the others for clearing up my mistake. The 40% coupon can make a big difference when buying some things. As far as one coupon per trip I go by a store often so it's no big deal for me to stop by and pick something up.
 
No worries, I've learned something too :) Alumilite is used on IAP mostly in reference to the Urethane product so I should have been clearer in the OP. I find ACC a suitable and in some cases preferred alternative because of the longer open time but buyer beware it is not the same resin as Alumilite Clear.
 
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In case anyone wonders how it turns, on a fast lathe with sharp tools it shoots looong streamers. IMO it polishes nice as well.

I turned this to see what it was gonna look like inside so I could figure out what pen to put it on. Polished to 4000 then hit with Meguiars 205. No other top coat.

TurnsNice.jpg


PolishesNice.jpg


ACC.jpg
 
Here's the whole recipe :)

They were a 2 color pour. I used liquid dyes and mica powders. The liquid dyes I use are epoxy dyes by Let's Resin and the micas are no name or Let's Resin, both off Amazon.

I made the 'Continents' blanks and a few others at the same time so it was a 26oz batch of resin mixed and degassed 5mins.

For these, 5oz in a cup and 1oz in a cup.

In the 5 oz cup enough Ruby Red liquid to give a light rose color then an unmeasured amount of orange mica powder + and unmeasured but roughly equal amount of pearl orange-red color shift mica. I use popsicle sticks to dole out mica so I know how much I am adding relative to how much I always use but I've never measured it.

In the 1oz cup a few drops of liquid lemon yellow, then Fantasy Yellow mica powder and roughly 1/8 that amount of metallic gold mica powder

Poured in half the orange then used a popsicle stick to drop blobs of yellow throughout, using half the yellow. Gently poured the rest of the orange on top then dropped the rest of the yellow.

Used a dental pick to drag the yellow blobs across the blank after pouring only dragging across, not along the length.

Let it set up overnight and demold.
 
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