monophoto
Member
I'm not a big fan of most FP kits - too much bling, and too complicated (multiple bits), etc. And the popular kits are like Model T Fords - any color you want as long as it's gold. The best of the poor selection seems to me to be the CSUSA Artisan. But it has a couple of shortcomings.
1. The metal extension on the body is ugly, so I prefer a closed-end version. My closed-end mandrel is a length of 1/4x20 allthread with an HDPE cap on the end that is turned to just fit inside the 10mm tube. The mandrel is held in the headstock with a Jacobs chuck, and supported by a cup-style live center on the tail stock. A standard pen bushing is required at the open end of of the body turning. If the pen is to be used with a converter, the hole in the body turning has to be about 3" deep. If cartridges are to be used exclusively, the hole doesn't have to be as deep - perhaps 2.5". But - measure your components before drilling because not all cartridges and converters are the same.
2. The Artisan uses the dreaded snap-cap design, and installing that snap sleeve is a PITA. The first problem is that the instructions tell you to install the sleeve after the cap has been pressed into the end of the turning, and you are supposed to use the threaded stud under the cap to cut threads in the top of the sleeve. There are tools that you can buy that supposedly do this; it is said that a No 2 Phillips screwdriver will work. My experience is that a Robertson (square drive) screwdriver is even better. But my experience is that an even better approach is to use a tap to cut threads in the sleeve before assembling anything, and then screw it onto the stud on the bottom of the cap before pressing the cap into place. I also put a minute drop of thick CA on the threads. The CA doesn't really adhere to the plastic snap sleeve, but it does tighten up the threaded connection between the snap sleeve and the stud on the bottom of the cap so that it's less likely to work loose over time.
1. The metal extension on the body is ugly, so I prefer a closed-end version. My closed-end mandrel is a length of 1/4x20 allthread with an HDPE cap on the end that is turned to just fit inside the 10mm tube. The mandrel is held in the headstock with a Jacobs chuck, and supported by a cup-style live center on the tail stock. A standard pen bushing is required at the open end of of the body turning. If the pen is to be used with a converter, the hole in the body turning has to be about 3" deep. If cartridges are to be used exclusively, the hole doesn't have to be as deep - perhaps 2.5". But - measure your components before drilling because not all cartridges and converters are the same.
2. The Artisan uses the dreaded snap-cap design, and installing that snap sleeve is a PITA. The first problem is that the instructions tell you to install the sleeve after the cap has been pressed into the end of the turning, and you are supposed to use the threaded stud under the cap to cut threads in the top of the sleeve. There are tools that you can buy that supposedly do this; it is said that a No 2 Phillips screwdriver will work. My experience is that a Robertson (square drive) screwdriver is even better. But my experience is that an even better approach is to use a tap to cut threads in the sleeve before assembling anything, and then screw it onto the stud on the bottom of the cap before pressing the cap into place. I also put a minute drop of thick CA on the threads. The CA doesn't really adhere to the plastic snap sleeve, but it does tighten up the threaded connection between the snap sleeve and the stud on the bottom of the cap so that it's less likely to work loose over time.