Wow Alice...you gave yourself several opportunities to get some water into the mix. If it wasn't mixed right, then it still shouldn't be white, but it might be soft in some spots from improper mixing. The resin saver mold requires a bit more demold time due to less volume, but does not have to be pre-heated for success. Water sounds most likely the issue, the mold being wet and/or the air being wet in the hose. You can get an air dryer, a pretty good one, at HF for about $30. You still should drain that tank every so often too. Even still, you can get a bit of moisture in the line, but this can be eliminated by doubling the amount of air line to 100 ft. Air gets warm inside the tank because it is being compressed. The air outside the tank may be cooler than inside the tank, which will result in condensation on the slick metal surface inside and outside the tank. This water needs to be drained. This same thing also happens inside the air hose. Plastic is slick, so hot air and cold air do the same thing there too. Doubling the length of the line will reduce some moisture in the line as well as prevent the possibility of condensation inside your pressure pot caused by warmer air introduced in there, because the longer air line will give air a chance to cool before it exits the hose.
On a side not...alumilite is not a great product for casting clear tubes in a resin saver mold. It just doesn't stick good enough, like if you are casting labels or skins, then you should switch to PR. The alumilite will stretch a hair when you assemble the pen kit and the stretching action will cause the resin to seperate from the tube. Because PR is so hard, it does not stretch itself free from the tube. If you are casting tubes but the resin is colored, then it wouldn't matter, because if the alumilite pulled free of the tube just a hair on either end then it wouldn't be noticable.
