Crafted defect how to fix ?

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
TN_Eric

TN_Eric

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2024
Messages
19
Location
East Tennessee
Turned this last night, this morning finished it, and then assembled it. In the photo it shows the Nib where it contacts the wood body, I tried to get the end to be flush with the Nib but couldn't. It's on a Slimline pen. Is it the bushings, or me being too worried to mess up my detailer or bushing? Using carbide turning tools. Any way to fix this after it's assembled?

May be answering my own question, but I guess I could do the Nib assembly before finishing to test, but do I sacrifice a bushing or took to get it exactly flush with the Nib?
 

Attachments

  • defect.jpg
    defect.jpg
    36.2 KB · Views: 43
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
KenB259 said:
Use bushing to get close, then switch to TBC to finalize. Also use calipers. You'll have to disassemble this one to fix it.
Click to expand...
Well I do have calipers, digital ones used for another "sport" I'm into. All I have to disassemble are the PSI clamp and punches for pens but how to do you remove the twist mech?
 
KenB259 said:
Use bushing to get close, then switch to TBC to finalize. Also use calipers. You'll have to disassemble this one to fix it.
Click to expand...
So I looked up Turn Between Centers. I'll have to get a Dead Center 60 degree chuck, no big deal, but do I need TBC bushing adapters like I saw in a video as well or just put the pen tube between the centers and finish it off?
 
TN_Eric said:
So I looked up Turn Between Centers. I'll have to get a Dead Center 60 degree chuck, no big deal, but do I need TBC bushing adapters like I saw in a video as well or just put the pen tube between the centers and finish it off?
Click to expand...
I don't use any bushings when I get to that point. They get in my way.
 
Like Ken, I don't use bushings when turning to the final diameter.
This is the easiest way I have found to disassemble a slimline or similar pen. Using the largest transfer punch that will fit through the middle of the transmission, use a hammer to knock out the nib tip. Next, drill a7mm hole in a piece of HDPE (my choice} or a piece of wood. In the chuck of your drill press or tail stock of your lathe, place the largest transfer punch that will fit in the 7mm tube. Put the twist end of the transmission in the hole of the HDPE or wood and press the transmission out with the transfer punch. Be sure the transmission will fall through the center hole of your drill press table or the center of the head stock spindle,
 
TN_Eric said:
I've got the 60 degree tail stock center, so I'll just buy the dead center.
thank you!
Click to expand...
Just so you know, when you mount the blank between centers, it takes very little pressure. At that point, you're taking off very little material. You don't want to flare the tube.
 
Thanks all for the help. Got the Nib, and Transmission out successfully. Don't know WHY it never dawned on me to use the punch to go "through" the transmission to get to the Nib, feel like an idiot now lol.

I used Monty's method on the lathe to get the transmission out. Have the dead center arriving Saturday to fix the bottom part of the pen.
 
The technique shown in Ed's YouTube (with the transfer punch) works, but it is a bit 'hit or miss' (that's a pun), and it can damage the transmission. There is another approach that Mike Redburn described in this thread. This is the approach I prefer, but with one minor modification; I use two washers instead of one. Insert flat-blade screwdrivers between the two washers, and then twist them to force the washers apart. Since the transmission is securely clamped into what amounts to a collet held in the bench vice, separating the washers forces the pen body to move away from the clamp and therefore from the transmission.

Once again, the approaches to feline decortication are many and varied (ie, there are many ways to skin a cat).
 
So I'll ask a different question. What is your finishing routine? Could you have built up so much finish on the piece that you added that to the diameter of the body of the pen?
 
bugradx2 said:
So I'll ask a different question. What is your finishing routine? Could you have built up so much finish on the piece that you added that to the diameter of the body of the pen?
Click to expand...
I don't think so. Only put on 4 or 5 coats. I just don't think I cut it down far enough. Until I get better, and use the TBC system when I get close, I'll test each turned blank with the Nib, and pound it back out till I know it's where I want it. I have my dead center arriving tomorrow.
 
TN_Eric said:
I don't think so. Only put on 4 or 5 coats. I just don't think I cut it down far enough. Until I get better, and use the TBC system when I get close, I'll test each turned blank with the Nib, and pound it back out till I know it's where I want it. I have my dead center arriving tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Better to not assemble it until you have it sized. Calipers are your friend.
 
TN_Eric said:
……I'll test each turned blank with the Nib, and pound it back out till I know it's where I want it. I have my dead center arriving tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Be aware that when you reinsert the nib, it may easily just slip in or it may be easy to pull out after reinsertion. To overcome this do not use CA glue as the vapors may deposit on your finger prints on the nib. I and many others have found that a small amount of blue loctite works for this.
 
KenB259 said:
Better to not assemble it until you have it sized. Calipers are your friend.
Click to expand...

Monty said:
Be aware that when you reinsert the nib, it may easily just slip in or it may be easy to pull out after reinsertion. To overcome this do not use CA glue as the vapors may deposit on your finger prints on the nib. I and many others have found that a small amount of blue loctite works for this.
Click to expand...
Loctite.. I've got some of that, the blue.. Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom