Cool drill bits.

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Psychmike22

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Oct 26, 2013
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139
Location
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My shop has always been the back half of a one-car garage. I never had space for an air compressor so, I learned to turn using canned air (computer duster). I was drilling some acrylic blanks today and I realize that I use the can right side up to clear swarf and upside down to cool off the drill bit. Does anyone else do this?
 
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Not me. I drill plastics / acrylics without any special cooling. Frankly, it never occurred to me, and I haven't seemed to need it.

I drill on the lathe. I drill a small amount at a time and then release the tailstock and pull the bit completely out to clear the swarf and let the exposed bit cool. I give it a little time, then push it all the way in, back it off a hair, turn on the lathe, and drill another small portion by cranking the tailstock, repeat until done - about 1/2 inch at a time or so. Do a few plastic blanks, and you will get a feel for what works. I haven't had any issues with that approach - no melted blanks or frozen bits. I don't know how much slower it is, but it doesn't seem to take much time to drill.

Turning plastics / acrylics takes me a lot longer than turning wood.
 
I just keep the bit cool enough by using my air compressor. I just blow air on the bit and the blank while I drill. When done drilling, the bit is warm, but never hot, certainly not hot enough to cause some of the problems I've heard about. I've drilled acrylic, polyester, inlace, fauxstone, trustone, corian and antler. A variety of woods, of course. I drill on both a press and the lathe, same general approach. Cool with the air, back off every half inch give or take (depending on material, I may back out more often), once I'm near the other end of the blank, I either drill to my required depth and stop, then trim off the excess to reveal the hole, or I just go very slow and careful to properly cut the hole at the other end without chipping out.
 
Having slept on it overnight, I realized that there is a difference between drilling on the lathe and drilling with a drill press.

When I drill on the lathe, it is easy to back the drill bit completely out of the hole very quickly, which allows it to clear and cool off. I just release the tailstock and pull it back until the drill bit is completely clear.

The drill press is different. Once you reach a certain depth on the drill press, you can't get the drill bit out quickly. My drill press does not have a long enough quill travel to do a pen blank in one pass without raising the table once the hole reaches a certain depth. There is a crank handle to raise and lower the table. To make matters worse, the table wants to swing from side to side as I crank it up and down when it is unlocked. I have a cheap Delta benchtop drill press. I don't know whether other drill presses work the same way.
 
Having slept on it overnight, I realized that there is a difference between drilling on the lathe and drilling with a drill press.

When I drill on the lathe, it is easy to back the drill bit completely out of the hole very quickly, which allows it to clear and cool off. I just release the tailstock and pull it back until the drill bit is completely clear.

The drill press is different. Once you reach a certain depth on the drill press, you can't get the drill bit out quickly. My drill press does not have a long enough quill travel to do a pen blank in one pass without raising the table once the hole reaches a certain depth. There is a crank handle to raise and lower the table. To make matters worse, the table wants to swing from side to side as I crank it up and down when it is unlocked. I have a cheap Delta benchtop drill press. I don't know whether other drill presses work the same way.
I picked up the Jet 17" free standing drill press earlier this year (for $999), as I had the same problem with my older Wen press. I couldn't drill a blank in a single pass, as the stroke was only 2.5". The Jet press has a 5" stroke, so I can easily drill blanks in a single pass. I'm working on getting a jig table set up so I can simply bolt on my pen vise, which itself will be bolted to a piece of MDF, and have it properly centered and leveled and all that. I then simply need to center the table rotation, which should make it easier to drill on the press.
 
My shop has always been the back half of a one-car garage. I never had space for an air compressor so, I learned to turn using canned air (computer duster). I was drilling some acrylic blanks today and I realize that I use the can right side up to clear swarf and upside down to cool off the drill bit. Does anyone else do this?
I also use a drill press to drill my blanks. About 6 years ago I had a can of WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner and used it to spray on my drill bit and into the blank. The cleaner comes out as a liquid and quickly flashes and cools off the drill bit and the inside of the blank. It has worked flawlessly for all these years for me. It is CFC free do it does not effect the atmosphere. I'm sure almost any Electrical Contact Cleaner will work but the WD-40 I use I found to be very reasonably priced. It does not affect the blank or drill bit in any way that I have found.
 
I also use a drill press to drill my blanks. About 6 years ago I had a can of WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner and used it to spray on my drill bit and into the blank. The cleaner comes out as a liquid and quickly flashes and cools off the drill bit and the inside of the blank. It has worked flawlessly for all these years for me. It is CFC free do it does not effect the atmosphere. I'm sure almost any Electrical Contact Cleaner will work but the WD-40 I use I found to be very reasonably priced. It does not affect the blank or drill bit in any way that I have found.

Warren,

I was intrigued by this so I did a little research and found the following:

Most of the "canned air" products that are available through retail are made of hydrofluorocarbon 152A (which is primarily an aerosol propellant), along with some bittering agents to discourage huffing (huffing it contributed to the death of Sky McCole Bartusiak in 2014, a talented young actress that appeared in many TV shows and movies).

From a quick look at the MSDS for the WD-40 Contact cleaner, it is primarily a concoction of Hexane Isomers (highly volatile solvents used in cleaners, degreasers and adhesives) and n-pentane (although it is a solvent it is usually used as an aerosol propellant).

The only caution I would offer is that hexane vapors are usually extremely flammable, so take care when you are using it.

Dave
 
My shop has always been the back half of a one-car garage. I never had space for an air compressor so, I learned to turn using canned air (computer duster). I was drilling some acrylic blanks today and I realize that I use the can right side up to clear swarf and upside down to cool off the drill bit. Does anyone else do this?
i have a similar shop and what i use is a 12v air compressor/tyre inflator. however i was thinking about a diy solution like this one:


has anyone tried this or something similar?
 
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I bought the valve stems and was planning to use an empty can of air for the container, but so far I haven't made one yet. I just don't think it is going to have enough capacity between charges to satisfy me. So I've just continued to buy canned air from our local Menards store. Dave
 
Warren,

I was intrigued by this so I did a little research and found the following:

Most of the "canned air" products that are available through retail are made of hydrofluorocarbon 152A (which is primarily an aerosol propellant), along with some bittering agents to discourage huffing (huffing it contributed to the death of Sky McCole Bartusiak in 2014, a talented young actress that appeared in many TV shows and movies).

From a quick look at the MSDS for the WD-40 Contact cleaner, it is primarily a concoction of Hexane Isomers (highly volatile solvents used in cleaners, degreasers and adhesives) and n-pentane (although it is a solvent it is usually used as an aerosol propellant).

The only caution I would offer is that hexane vapors are usually extremely flammable, so take care when you are using it.

Dave
Thanks for the heads up. I felt like if could be used on electrical contacts it would be pretty tame material. I read the SDS for it and was very surprised it was flammable. A number of times I have used it in distribution panels where the power was removed from the contactor but power (480V) still on in the panel. Sounds like this could be a miss application of this product in an electrical environment where sparks might occur as a contactor breaks.
 
Thanks for the heads up. I felt like if could be used on electrical contacts it would be pretty tame material. I read the SDS for it and was very surprised it was flammable. A number of times I have used it in distribution panels where the power was removed from the contactor but power (480V) still on in the panel. Sounds like this could be a miss application of this product in an electrical environment where sparks might occur as a contactor breaks.

Yes, the older I get the more careful I get regarding these things. Back in the 80's I routinely used Carbon Tetrachloride as my go to cleaner for magnetic tape heads, capstans and the like. I was also very liberal with an aerosol 111-Trichloroethane pushed by butane as my contact cleaner - maybe I'm just wiser now? - There are times I wish I still could get some of those nasty chemicals -- they really did a good job on some things. I remember being bummed out when Energine spot remover changed from 111-Trichlor to Naphtha - it didn't work nearly as well as a spot remover - and even the Naphtha version was completely discontinued in 2006. - Dave
 
Having slept on it overnight, I realized that there is a difference between drilling on the lathe and drilling with a drill press.

When I drill on the lathe, it is easy to back the drill bit completely out of the hole very quickly, which allows it to clear and cool off. I just release the tailstock and pull it back until the drill bit is completely clear.

The drill press is different. Once you reach a certain depth on the drill press, you can't get the drill bit out quickly. My drill press does not have a long enough quill travel to do a pen blank in one pass without raising the table once the hole reaches a certain depth. There is a crank handle to raise and lower the table. To make matters worse, the table wants to swing from side to side as I crank it up and down when it is unlocked. I have a cheap Delta benchtop drill press. I don't know whether other drill presses work the same way.
I did not know Delta made cheap drill presses. I have aDelta tabletop also and it is reliable and solid piece of tooling. There is a spring return on the quill to return the handle to the starting position. Maybe your is broke. The table has a lock on it that locks it in position after you find the height you need. I do not drill blanks on the drill press, I use the lathe. But it is so easy to adjust for a short drill distance and has been talked about many times here. Just add a spacer block under the blank as you slowly allow the bit to return to starting position. You want to keep the bit engaged in the hole as much as you can to keep the hole lined up. If you are using a device to hold the blank steady then add the spacer under the device.
 
I use DNA ( denatured alcohol) to cool my bits. Keep a rag soaked in it when I pull the bit out I hit with the soaked rag. Now of course if using a drill press you do not do that with it running. I drill on the lathe. Very inexpensive way of cooling a drill bit which really should not be allowed to get too hot anyway.
 
I did not know Delta made cheap drill presses. I have aDelta tabletop also and it is reliable and solid piece of tooling. There is a spring return on the quill to return the handle to the starting position. Maybe your is broke. The table has a lock on it that locks it in position after you find the height you need. I do not drill blanks on the drill press, I use the lathe. But it is so easy to adjust for a short drill distance and has been talked about many times here. Just add a spacer block under the blank as you slowly allow the bit to return to starting position. You want to keep the bit engaged in the hole as much as you can to keep the hole lined up. If you are using a device to hold the blank steady then add the spacer under the device.
It is a 20 year old Delta 11-990 that I bought used for $cheap in early 2020. That's what I meant by "cheap." Everything works, including the spring return, but the quill depth isn't long enough to drill a pen blank without raising the table to lower the drill bit into the hole. The table mechanism has a clamping screw that clamps the table to the post. The table itself has a crank that slowly raises or lowers the table. I like the ease and precision of the crank, which is a vast improvement over my previous drill press. While the clamping screw is loose, the table wants to swing left and right, which can be an issue if the drill bit is inside the pen blank. The real issue is that it takes several turns of the crank to get the drill bit out of the pen blank to cool - too slow to be effective.

Drilling on the lathe is quick, easy, more accurate, and better overall. The only issue with the lathe is the need for a four-jaw chuck on the headstock and a Jacobs chuck on the tailstock. If all you make is pens and you already have a drill press setup, then the cost and storage for the extra lathe chucks may keep you from using the lathe. For me, the two lathe chucks have many other uses besides pens alone. (For that matter, I use the lathe for pen assembly too. It just works for me and makes the job easy.)

That Delta drill press replaced a 40 year old Rockwell Model 10 drill press. It still runs fine and is very light weight. The table raise/lower mechanism is nothing but a clamp with a post that hurts your hand to tighten it enough to hold. We were young and it was all we could afford at the time. I shouldn't complain about it, because it built a lot of furniture, did a complete kitchen remodel, and made many household repairs over the years. I keep it today because it is light and I can take it to sites for simple uses, such as bulk hard drive data destruction. :)

Rockwell Model 10 Drill Press.JPG
 
Thanks for the explanation. Have to say it is the nature of the beast. If drilling on the drill press you will run into those problems if you raise and lower the table to increase drill bit depth but you can avoid if you use the spacer. Most drill presses have some sort of mechanism that mimics what Delta uses so no help there. All tables will spin if not locked. That is what they are suppose to do. I too drill on the lathe. If you have a lathe then you should have the chucks and no they are not extra because if you turn you need those at some time anyway. If anyone is serious about pen making then they should learn to drill on the lathe. Good luck.
 
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