Combining aluminum and acrylic

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NGLJ

NGLJ

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Sep 15, 2021
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Surrey BC, Canada
I wasn't sure if I could glue acrylic to aluminum, turn it and it stay in one piece. So, I gave it a try and gluing was somewhat problematic because I used polyurethane. My first attempts did not work. So, instead of gluing the acrylic to the aluminum and then drilling, I drilled the aluminum and acrylic separately. Then I glued them together, and to my surprise it stayed that way! See attached. Having proven the approach so far (or perhaps just lucky!) , I must try something more adventurous - yet to be determined. I don't doubt that most would say "use epoxy" and they may be right. I do plan to try epoxy when I actually have some. I find polyurethane is less messy, (no mixing) which I like, and unlike CA you have time to breath. All my recent work uses poly.
 

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Funny timing. I was just thinking about this earlier today as a way to assemble mixed materials today. Looks like it worked quite well for you. The seams look tight. that opens up a lot of possibilities.
 
The seam between them might really cause issues, especially after turning the metal or even sanding once the aluminum heats up but it looks great. How did you dissipate the heat so the resin stayed round and even with the aluminum?
 
I took very light cuts and stopped turning frequently to allow things to cool. The aluminum heats up very quickly even with light cuts. I ran the lathe at full speed to aid cooling when not turning. To be honest I was very surprised that the heat did not cause a problem, especially melting the acrylic. I guess you could also use some active cooling like a fan or even water to speed things up. Water might cause things to cool too quickly creating its own problem. I did not do wet sanding but you could to help control the heat. While sanding I applied the same approach as turning. I sanded to 600 and then used 2 applications of Ultra Shine as polish. I need to experiment more with finishing aluminum. I guess the main ingredient is patience :).
 
I always had good luck with using 2 part epoxy for gluing mixed materials, especially aluminum. It's flexible, unlike CA, and held much better while turning and drilling. Heat can be the big issue when working the blank. I usually step drilled and used a little water when drilling and sanding. Good luck!
 
I always step drill regardless of the material drilled. With slimline I make starter holes with a 6mm carbide end mill. This helps to get the 7mm drill bit started in the right direction, especially with more difficult to drill materials. Haven't tried water or a different lubricant/coolant for drilling but it sounds like a good idea. I have used plastic inlays with epoxy where you get good gluing area but gluing mixed materials end to end is new for me. I am surprised at my success with polyurethane. I only tried because I ran out of epoxy. Always lots to learn!
 
NGLJ said:
I always step drill regardless of the material drilled. With slimline I make starter holes with a 6mm carbide end mill. This helps to get the 7mm drill bit started in the right direction, especially with more difficult to drill materials. Haven't tried water or a different lubricant/coolant for drilling but it sounds like a good idea. I have used plastic inlays with epoxy where you get good gluing area but gluing mixed materials end to end is new for me. I am surprised at my success with polyurethane. I only tried because I ran out of epoxy. Always lots to learn!
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Your success was helped along with the fact that you predrilled the holes and that you also glued all parts to a solid tube. Your problem will come into play many times if you build the blank and then drill. That is where many failures happen. Nice pen.
 
I guess I found that out by trial and error. Your confirmation gives me confidence to use that approach in future. What I didn't say was that I glued the tube to the aluminum first and then added the end pieces once the aluminum glue started to set. That way things can't move and it is easier to center the tube in the aluminum. Then I clamped it all together.
 
NGLJ said:
I guess I found that out by trial and error. Your confirmation gives me confidence to use that approach in future. What I didn't say was that I glued the tube to the aluminum first and then added the end pieces once the aluminum glue started to set. That way things can't move and it is easier to center the tube in the aluminum. Then I clamped it all together.
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Predrilling and stacking it on the tube is the easiest way to keep it all straight and together, no matter what your working with. That way you don't have to worry about not drilling straight center. In the past I've glued thinner pieces of aluminum in blanks that I've cut wavy - length wise. There's no way to pre drill but step drilling and epoxy will be your friend then.
 
My wife has taken to inspecting my hands and complaining if they aren't at least reasonably clean :(. She isn't some kind of neat freak but she does have a point when I have managed to get CA and/or polyurethane on my hands. It doesn't look good. They can be difficult to remove, that is without sacrificing some skin which I am loathed to do!
 
NGLJ said:
My wife has taken to inspecting my hands and complaining if they aren't at least reasonably clean :(. She isn't some kind of neat freak but she does have a point when I have managed to get CA and/or polyurethane on my hands. It doesn't look good. They can be difficult to remove, that is without sacrificing some skin which I am loathed to do!
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I'm investing in acetone next time I'm at the pharmacy. A little rough on the skin, but eventually the CA comes off. If it's good enough for my wife's nails, it's probably good enough for me. :)
 
cyclop5 said:
I'm investing in acetone next time I'm at the pharmacy. A little rough on the skin, but eventually the CA comes off. If it's good enough for my wife's nails, it's probably good enough for me. :)
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Oh yeah my wife buys many bottles of it. There's 1 brand that we've found works best, its from Walmart and it's called "Onyx Profesional nail polish remover". It comes in 16oz. Bottles and is under $3 a bottle. She's tried a bunch of different types of 100% acetone but this brand seems to pull it right off.
 
Whilst I understand the desire to remove CA from hands please be very careful with the use of acetone. It removes the glue but also the essential oils that protect the skin. Too much use and you could end up with dermatitis and possibly a difficult to treat infection. It is one thing to put it on nails to remove nail polish but skin is quite different. Strong solvents are not intended to go near skin. I stopped using acetone for the reason just stated. Fortunately, I stopped before it became a serious problem. If you wish to continue to use acetone at least make sure that you use an antibiotic cream immediately after use of the acetone. Elbow grease and a pumice based hand cleaner like Fast Orange may not be as efficient but it is a whole lot safer!
 
Any time when my segments are a straight 90 degree cut to the tube, I always drill all materials first and assemble on the tube. It really eliminates any failure due to the adhesive.
 
Although I discovered it via trial and error, taking that approach has allowed me to be successful. I guess I should have asked here and saved myself some time and material :).
 
I solved some of these issues by actually casting around credit card inserts. I'm sure it would also work with aluminum inserts.
 
cyclop5 said:
I'm investing in acetone next time I'm at the pharmacy. A little rough on the skin, but eventually the CA comes off. If it's good enough for my wife's nails, it's probably good enough for me. :)
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I acetone and DNA by the gallon at Lowe's. Have squeeze bottles from HF filled with acetone and DNA. Got a deal on DNA as the handle on the gallon can came loose on one end.
 
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