casting

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theartist07

theartist07

Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2007
Messages
224
Location
lenoir, nc, USA.
Hi everyone, hope you folks won't be to hard on me for asking this.I have a question on casting. I may have over looked it and sorry if i did. I did my first cast a couple days ago and used the liquid die, what i need to know is , do i also need to use the powder everone is talking about. because the die alone does not give you a solid color/colors. And also,what is good to use to put in the end of the tubs if i want to cast with the tubs already in it? I hope this is not a dumb question but i was always told to ask if i wasn't sure about something. Any help here on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

http://www.customhandcraftedpens.com
 
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I'll not comment about the casting materials because I havent colored much at all.

However, when I cast some before with the tubes in it, I was able to find these blue silicone stoppers/corks on ebay for dirt cheap. Before that I had been using black ones from hardware stores which were darn expensive. I want to say the ones I got were some sort of ear piercing supply. If I can find the vendor I'll pass it on. Best of all is they're silicone so they pop right out because the PR won't stick to them.
 
thanks Skye, any thoughts on getting the color to where you don't see through it,i'm trying to get the effect of a acrylic blank that you would buy, then i'm going for the wrapping the tube idea. All help on this is greatly appreciated.

Jim

http://www.customhandcraftedpens.com
 
In my opinion, the powdered pigments do a better job of providing a non-opaque result than the liquid dyes do. As a benefit, they don't affect the curing of the PR like the liquid dyes can.
 
Thanks for all the info,i'm going to try the powdered pigments because as i stated the non-opaque blank is what i'm trying to get, at this time.Once again thanks for all the help, i believe i have a better understanding of what it takes now.I just received my mold from "Gadget", must say he does great work and i'm getting ready to use it,wish me luck. I'll post a pic when i get one i'm happy with.

Have a great all,
thanks again,
jim
 
Originally posted by sbell111

In my opinion, the powdered pigments do a better job of providing a non-opaque result than the liquid dyes do. As a benefit, they don't affect the curing of the PR like the liquid dyes can.
Click to expand...

Non-opaque is transparent. I think he wants it to be opaque or solid colored. It can be achieved with liquid colors and shouldn't affect cure time. I've not had any colorants cause problems.
 
Jim-

While there are certainly those here who know more than I,
there is my Color library
One thing I'm still working on is a better way to indicate opacity.

I'm always looking to add recipes, so if you (or anyone else) keep
notes on what you did and send them to me I'll add it.
 
I use the Opaque and transparent colors from U.S Composites just 2 or 3 drops per OZ of resin, and don't have any problems with messing up my cure or gel time.
If you want Pearlescent colors, use Pearl Ex available at hobby lobby or art stuf, even off eBay, use 1/8 Tsp. per OZ. Getting consistent results with powdercoating powder is very hard,and can have an effect on you cure time I started using it and now just coat my tubes with it if I want to use transparent colors and Macro Pearl, also I am using PR (silmar41) not Alumilite, BIG DIFFERENCE,
 
Originally posted by DozerMite

Originally posted by sbell111

In my opinion, the powdered pigments do a better job of providing a non-opaque result than the liquid dyes do. As a benefit, they don't affect the curing of the PR like the liquid dyes can.
Click to expand...

Non-opaque is transparent. I think he wants it to be opaque or solid colored. It can be achieved with liquid colors and shouldn't affect cure time. I've not had any colorants cause problems.
Click to expand...

Actually, non-opaque can be transparent or translucent. http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/opaque

In my experience, powders do a better job at producing opaque (i.e. solid) PR. Liquids do a good job at producing a translucent (i.e. tinted, but still able to see through) PR. Adding nothing produces a transparent (i.e. clear) PR.
 
i agree with you Blind_Squirrel, thanks for the replies, remember i'm just starting at this, but i'll get it right. Thanks all....


jimhttp://www.customhandcraftedpens.com
 
Here is a link to an article I wrote that went along with casting demonstration I did at our local club. I will check this Monday if they will consider putting the video up on the clubs "Wood Tube"

The 3rd page is the formulation page that went directly with the demo, and has one of my formulations for Purple & Gold that people have really liked. The article may answer some of the recurring questions, then again, maybe not.

Some of the places mentioned in the article are local to me as this was presented as a local demonstration
http://www.jaxturners.org/tech/casting_with_polyester_resin.pdf
 
Hi, once again i thank you for the help, i have a simple question if you don't mind ; has anyone experienced a difference in the quality of powders, you know ;name brands? I'm ready for powder, already cast a died one, not to happy with it, at least what it was ment for.

thanks folks'

jim
 
Originally posted by theartist07

Hi, once again i thank you for the help, i have a simple question if you don't mind ; has anyone experienced a difference in the quality of powders, you know ;name brands? I'm ready for powder, already cast a died one, not to happy with it, at least what it was ment for.

thanks folks'

jim
Click to expand...

I really hope you meant a Dyed cast, and not a Died cast...

Many people like the powders from Artstuff, many like the powders from Coastalscents. I like the Jacquard Pearl-ex. I can get about half of the colors at 40% off from the local Box craft stores. The other half (well all of the colors) are sold at a small boutique artstore 3 miles from my house. So I don't have to wait for the mail if I miscalculate how much powder Pigment I need. The only downside for the Pearl-ex's is they don't have much in the way of greens and REDred is absolutly missing from thier color lineups.
 
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