Casting Resin Comparison Chart

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
vtgaryw

vtgaryw

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2012
Messages
657
Location
Milton, VT
Maybe someone's done this, but I haven't found one in my searches either in here or elsewhere. I've started to put together a chart comparing different casting resins, since lots of people new to casting have to sort through a lot of posts and instruction sheets.

It's a work in process, but I'm looking for feedback:

1) Is it useful?
2) What other resins should I include that are commonly used (I've just started with ones I've personally used so far.)
3) What other factors should I add? One I want to include is what kind of dyes/colorants can you use.

And, if anyone has any of my fill-in-the-blanks off the top of their head, it would save me some more digging.

Thanks,

Gary
 

Attachments

  • Casting Resins.pdf
    622.8 KB · Views: 709
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Couple of comments on Alumilite:

1. It is Urethane rather than Epoxy.

2. Although Alumilite says that shelf life is 3 months, generally it is much longer than that; typically a year or longer for the regular if it is kept cool and in the dark.

Bill
 
bmachin said:
Couple of comments on Alumilite:

1. It is Urethane rather than Epoxy.

2. Although Alumilite says that shelf life is 3 months, generally it is much longer than that; typically a year or longer for the regular if it is kept cool and in the dark.

Bill
Click to expand...

1) Thanks. I had corrected that in my Excel file, but had apparently saved the .pdf first.
2) I'm going to list the vendor's specs for all of these attributes, but can add things like this to a notes section.

Gary
 
I am looking for something like this right now. A column that gives you - time from un-molding until ready/able to turn - would be appreciated by us newbies.

Maybe that is "cure" time ?
 
This is great, very helpful! I would like to see cost as well, even if it is just something generic like $, $$, $$$, etc.
 
You should add Smooth-On to the list. They have a lot of products, but I mostly use 2. For solid color, I use the Smooth Cast 300, it's a polyurethane resin. 3 min pot life, 10 min cure. I usually give it a 1/2 hour before I demold. White color, tints easily but you can't get a good deep black. No pressure needed if solid resin, but you do if you are adding any inclusions.

For clear, I use the Crystal Clear 202. Also polyurethane, 9 min pot life and 90 min cure. I usually pressure, you get tiny bubbles otherwise. Although they do look pretty cool when the resin is tinted. I leave these in the mold for 24 hours before demolding, I mostly cast the clear tube on, and you risk getting a small air pocket between the tube and the resin if it's not completely kicked. It doesn't need to stay in the pressure pot for that time though.
 
vtgaryw said:
Maybe someone's done this, but I haven't found one in my searches either in here or elsewhere. I've started to put together a chart comparing different casting resins, since lots of people new to casting have to sort through a lot of posts and instruction sheets.

It's a work in process, but I'm looking for feedback:

1) Is it useful?
2) What other resins should I include that are commonly used (I've just started with ones I've personally used so far.)
3) What other factors should I add? One I want to include is what kind of dyes/colorants can you use.

And, if anyone has any of my fill-in-the-blanks off the top of their head, it would save me some more digging.

Thanks,

Gary
Click to expand...

Once you are happy with your chart this definitely needs to be in the library. Contact me when you're ready. We can work together if you need any assistance.

Wayne
Library Manager
 
Assuming that you are using MEKP as the hardener (which is typical but not universal) with polyester resins (they are not all exactly the same), the recommended ratio is 1%-2% +/- depending on the resin, the thickness of the application, the ambient temperature, and any colorants added. It doesn't much matter if you go by weight or by volume, as the two are close enough to be within the error of measurement.

As you can probably guess, it really takes some trial-and-error, given the above variables. When casting Silmar 41 1-2 inches thick in a pressure pot at around 70 degrees F, I usually start at 1% MEKP.

I hope that helps,
Eric
 
Wayne said:
Once you are happy with your chart this definitely needs to be in the library. Contact me when you're ready. We can work together if you need any assistance.

Wayne
Library Manager
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reminder! I need to get back to this. Still have some holes to fill in before I'd want it out there as a real reference. I'll go back through it and see what I still need to add and/or update.
 
Sylvanite said:
Assuming that you are using MEKP as the hardener (which is typical but not universal) with polyester resins (they are not all exactly the same), the recommended ratio is 1%-2% +/- depending on the resin, the thickness of the application, the ambient temperature, and any colorants added. It doesn't much matter if you go by weight or by volume, as the two are close enough to be within the error of measurement.

As you can probably guess, it really takes some trial-and-error, given the above variables. When casting Silmar 41 1-2 inches thick in a pressure pot at around 70 degrees F, I usually start at 1% MEKP.

I hope that helps,
Eric
Click to expand...

Can you say some more about determining the correct quantity of hardener? I know varies by thickness is vague. What's your experience with adding colorants? Which ones work best? Which ones don't work at all (I know there's some.)
 
Dinosaurnut said:
You should add Smooth-On to the list. They have a lot of products, but I mostly use 2. For solid color, I use the Smooth Cast 300, it's a polyurethane resin. 3 min pot life, 10 min cure. I usually give it a 1/2 hour before I demold. White color, tints easily but you can't get a good deep black. No pressure needed if solid resin, but you do if you are adding any inclusions.

For clear, I use the Crystal Clear 202. Also polyurethane, 9 min pot life and 90 min cure. I usually pressure, you get tiny bubbles otherwise. Although they do look pretty cool when the resin is tinted. I leave these in the mold for 24 hours before demolding, I mostly cast the clear tube on, and you risk getting a small air pocket between the tube and the resin if it's not completely kicked. It doesn't need to stay in the pressure pot for that time though.
Click to expand...

How well do they both turn?
 
CaptainJane said:
I am looking for something like this right now. A column that gives you - time from un-molding until ready/able to turn - would be appreciated by us newbies.

Maybe that is "cure" time ?
Click to expand...

Down below, Dinosaurnut gave information for Smooth-On products for both cure and demold time. Demold was the longest. So if I use that as standard terminology across the board would that work? Is there a better way to attack these two factors?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom