Casting Postage Stamps

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DJBPenmaker

DJBPenmaker

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Joined
Nov 10, 2016
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Location
Cheshire, UK
I'm relatively new to casting and now want to cast some stamps or labels on the tube. Can anyone help me with the best way to stick the stamps to the tube without getting glue on the face of the stamps or labels. My first attempts have been spoiled because of this. I've been using diluted Mod Podge.
 
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jttheclockman said:
Hello Derek,

Did a quick search here and there are many threads on this topic because at one time this was very popular. So unless others chime in with direct methods here is the link where you can look through these threads. Good luck.

https://www.penturners.org/search/61635/?q=casting+postage+stamps&o=relevance

Here is a label casting article in the library that is basically the same for stamps.

https://www.penturners.org/resources/label-casting.173/
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Hi John that's very kind of you, thank you for those links I'll have a good read.
I'm still having trouble finding my way around the IAP site, I'd got used to using it through Tapatalk
 
Would a contact type adhesive like Uhu work? Never tried it on tubes but works for candle cup holders into candle sticks ie metal to wood . Pretty sure it's fine for paper too
 
howsitwork said:
Would a contact type adhesive like Uhu work? Never tried it on tubes but works for candle cup holders into candle sticks ie metal to wood . Pretty sure it's fine for paper too
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Hmmm, not sure. I'm going to read the links that @jttheclockman sent me. The problem I've had is glue squeezing out from underneath the stamps whilst positioning them and of course when you put one stamp covering part of the one underneath glue comes out whilst positioning it and contaminates the surface. Contact adhesive would stick immediately and I wouldn't be able to re-position.
 
I'm not sure you'd be interested in how I do them because I go through a lot of trouble to make mine. Anyway here's how I do them. First I remove the glue from the stamp. Then I paint the back with a water base acrylic white paint. Then I use clear Elmers glue to glue the stamp to the tube and then coat the whole thing with the same clear Elmers. After the tube has had plenty of time to dry I cast in Alumilite Clear Slow resin. I know that a lot of extra work but I like the results. Good Luck.
 
Kenny Durrant said:
I'm not sure you'd be interested in how I do them because I go through a lot of trouble to make mine. Anyway here's how I do them. First I remove the glue from the stamp. Then I paint the back with a water base acrylic white paint. Then I use clear Elmers glue to glue the stamp to the tube and then coat the whole thing with the same clear Elmers. After the tube has had plenty of time to dry I cast in Alumilite Clear Slow resin. I know that a lot of extra work but I like the results. Good Luck.
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Thanks for that. A couple of questions if I may. Do you also paint the tube and when you are attaching the stamps do you glue them and coat the whole thing in one go or do you let it dry first?
Also does Elmer's allow you time to adjust positioning before sticking.
Thanks, Derek
 
The Elmers is a water base glue. You will have more than enough time ti adjust the stamp. I do pain t he tube although I'll paint it any color I want not just white. The white paint on the back of the stamp will protect the image. Make sure to use the Clear Elmers. The white Elmers doesn't dry clear. it will leave a haze. I see you'r in the UK so I'm not sure if the same brands of products will be available there.
 
Kenny Durrant said:
The Elmers is a water base glue. You will have more than enough time ti adjust the stamp. I do pain t he tube although I'll paint it any color I want not just white. The white paint on the back of the stamp will protect the image. Make sure to use the Clear Elmers. The white Elmers doesn't dry clear. it will leave a haze. I see you'r in the UK so I'm not sure if the same brands of products will be available there.
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I've looked and we can get it here. I wonder if it's like Mod Podge which I've got already.
Do you glue and then coat everything in one go?
I don't care how long it takes to do, I'm a bit of a perfectionist (well I think I am🤣) and I'd rather get it done to my satisfaction.
 
I know others use Mod Podge and have excellent results. I've never had any luck with it. As far as doing it all I one step I'll let the glue on the stamp set then give it a final coat. The water base acrylic paint is the best thing I've found that won't crack or peel when wrapping it around the tube. It also helps to keep the resin from penetrating the paper causing it to look water stained. Once you get where you can paint the back of the stamp and keep it from getting on the front you'll have it made.
 
Kenny Durrant said:
I know others use Mod Podge and have excellent results. I've never had any luck with it. As far as doing it all I one step I'll let the glue on the stamp set then give it a final coat. The water base acrylic paint is the best thing I've found that won't crack or peel when wrapping it around the tube. It also helps to keep the resin from penetrating the paper causing it to look water stained. Once you get where you can paint the back of the stamp and keep it from getting on the front you'll have it made.
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Thanks for all your help. I'll try your method with some Elmer's.
Cheers, Derek
 
Kenny Durrant said:
I'm not sure you'd be interested in how I do them because I go through a lot of trouble to make mine. Anyway here's how I do them. First I remove the glue from the stamp. Then I paint the back with a water base acrylic white paint. Then I use clear Elmers glue to glue the stamp to the tube and then coat the whole thing with the same clear Elmers. After the tube has had plenty of time to dry I cast in Alumilite Clear Slow resin. I know that a lot of extra work but I like the results. Good Luck.
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Appreciate this info Kenny. I've been very frustrated casting postage stamps and will try your method. Can you share how you remove the glue from the stamp? Also, how long do you allow the glue to dry before casting?
 
Here is my process. It may be overkill but like I said it's works for me. First thing is I've never had any luck with Mod Podge but others have so try your luck with it if you wish. First I'll remove the glue from the stamp. If it's the old lick and stick I soak it in water for a minute or two and use a very soft brush to wipe it off. If I t's the peal and stick, Forever Stamps in the US, I'll soak them in white gas or Coleman Lantern Fuel for a minute and use an old credit card to squeegee off the glue. I use a brush on water base acrylic paint to paint the tube and the back of the stamp. I use white for the stamp to keep the resin from soaking through and discoloring the face. When that is dry I use Elmers to glue the stamp to the tube. I'll let that dry enough to keep it from sliding and then coat the entire tube and stamp with the Elmers. That needs to be completely dry or it will cause pro twitch the resin. Good luck and feel free to reach out and ask more questions.
 
Kenny Durrant said:
Here is my process. It may be overkill but like I said it's works for me. First thing is I've never had any luck with Mod Podge but others have so try your luck with it if you wish. First I'll remove the glue from the stamp. If it's the old lick and stick I soak it in water for a minute or two and use a very soft brush to wipe it off. If I t's the peal and stick, Forever Stamps in the US, I'll soak them in white gas or Coleman Lantern Fuel for a minute and use an old credit card to squeegee off the glue. I use a brush on water base acrylic paint to paint the tube and the back of the stamp. I use white for the stamp to keep the resin from soaking through and discoloring the face. When that is dry I use Elmers to glue the stamp to the tube. I'll let that dry enough to keep it from sliding and then coat the entire tube and stamp with the Elmers. That needs to be completely dry or it will cause pro twitch the resin. Good luck and feel free to reach out and ask more questions.
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Perfect. Thanks! I've been using modpodge (Gloss and Matte) with no luck; lots of bleed thru and discoloration. One more question... If you are covering the entire tube with stamps (no gaps), is it still necessary to paint the tube?
 
I wouldn't think it would still be necessary to paint the tube but I always felt comfortable doing it just in case there's a pin hole or a possibility of brass showing through.
 
Kenny Durrant said:
Here is my process. It may be overkill but like I said it's works for me. First thing is I've never had any luck with Mod Podge but others have so try your luck with it if you wish. First I'll remove the glue from the stamp. If it's the old lick and stick I soak it in water for a minute or two and use a very soft brush to wipe it off. If I t's the peal and stick, Forever Stamps in the US, I'll soak them in white gas or Coleman Lantern Fuel for a minute and use an old credit card to squeegee off the glue. I use a brush on water base acrylic paint to paint the tube and the back of the stamp. I use white for the stamp to keep the resin from soaking through and discoloring the face. When that is dry I use Elmers to glue the stamp to the tube. I'll let that dry enough to keep it from sliding and then coat the entire tube and stamp with the Elmers. That needs to be completely dry or it will cause pro twitch the resin. Good luck and feel free to reach out and ask more questions.
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Stamp Cast.jpg

I followed your directions Kenny, and so far I am very pleased with the results. I removed the glue from the stamps, painted with 2 coats of white acrylic paint, adhered to the tube with Elmer's clear glue, and once dry, sealed the outside surface with 2 coats of the same Elmer's clear glue, making sure to cover the edges of the stamps and the ends of the tubes. These were cast in Alumilite slow inside a pressure pot. I have not turned yet, but I do not see any yellowing or bleed thru. Thanks for your suggestions!

I'm now trying the same method on images printed on plain computer paper, in lieu of using labels.
 
Glad I could help. They look good to me. I'd like to see the finished pens if you don't mind sharing those. Alumilite has a sealer that I use as well. They said it's a similar product as Mod Podge. It's white and dries clear and it dries really fast. Not to throw too much at you but I still use Elmers to glue up the tubes but I use the Alumilite Sealer to coat them to seal up everything. As far as the stamps and pictures go be careful when putting the final coat on not to trap air or cause bubbles along the edges. Once you cast a few you'll see how easy it is and wonder why you had all the initial issues.
 
Kenny Durrant said:
Glad I could help. They look good to me. I'd like to see the finished pens if you don't mind sharing those. Alumilite has a sealer that I use as well. They said it's a similar product as Mod Podge. It's white and dries clear and it dries really fast. Not to throw too much at you but I still use Elmers to glue up the tubes but I use the Alumilite Sealer to coat them to seal up everything. As far as the stamps and pictures go be careful when putting the final coat on not to trap air or cause bubbles along the edges. Once you cast a few you'll see how easy it is and wonder why you had all the initial issues.
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I hope to get these turned this weekend and will post additional pics. Appreciate the heads up on the Alumilite Sealer. I didn't know that product existed, and will look into it.
 
Quick follow-up question on 'white acrylic paint' for the backs of the stamps.
Would you suggest Testor's acrylic paint, or Apple Barrel acrylic paint?
Before I waste a few stamps, I thought I would inquire to the hive-mind.
I guess I could double-down and ask the same question about 'labels' also.
Thanks
 
Jeff-in-Indiana said:
Quick follow-up question on 'white acrylic paint' for the backs of the stamps.
Would you suggest Testor's acrylic paint, or Apple Barrel acrylic paint?
Before I waste a few stamps, I thought I would inquire to the hive-mind.
I guess I could double-down and ask the same question about 'labels' also.
Thanks
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Not sure I can answer that. I suppose any acrylic paint will work. It provides an extra layer behind the stamp so the resin won't bleed thru.
 
Jeff-in-Indiana said:
Quick follow-up question on 'white acrylic paint' for the backs of the stamps.
Would you suggest Testor's acrylic paint, or Apple Barrel acrylic paint?
Before I waste a few stamps, I thought I would inquire to the hive-mind.
I guess I could double-down and ask the same question about 'labels' also.
Thanks
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Labels are much easier. But "weatherproof" matte labels at Online Labels.com. Just print, cut, stick and cast. You can get floss also but it doesn't work as well with alumilite clear and leaves little specks on the image where air bubbles were. Either work fine with Silmar 41 PR.
 
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