Casting and Decals

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hasha2000

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I've read a lot today about decals and casting. Maybe I haven't ran across it yet but maybe this is a new idea, it is for me at least. Has anyone tried to take a PR/Acrylic or even a wood blank turn it as thin as one can get it, Then add a decal just to cast it again in clear, then turn it to size? Does sound like a good idea for someone that doesn't like or hasn't mastered CA?

Wasn't sure where to place this so I put it in here :)
 
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I used to use the decoupage hardcoat to protect my cigar labels. I found that spraying them with a poly acrylic first is better than the decoupage stuff. For decals the fixative spray seems to be enough to protect them. Only suggestion I would have is to slow down your lathe for the first few coats of CA, seems to put less stress on the label or decal.
 
hasha2000 said:
I've read a lot today about decals and casting. Maybe I haven't ran across it yet but maybe this is a new idea, it is for me at least. Has anyone tried to take a PR/Acrylic or even a wood blank turn it as thin as one can get it, Then add a decal just to cast it again in clear, then turn it to size? Does sound like a good idea for someone that doesn't like or hasn't mastered CA?

Wasn't sure where to place this so I put it in here :)
Click to expand...


Have never tried what you are asking. Heck I am just getting into decal work myself. But a couple things I feel might be a problem with what you ask. The thiness of both layers. You need to use a kit with some thickness to it. Next how would wood handle the heat?? That would be an unknown. I think you are better off learning the CA method. It really is not hard at all. You don't have to be an expert. I think people make the CA finish out to be harder than it is. People all come up with their own ways of applying but in the end it is all the same. read alot from the past threads. Just do a search on CA finishes. Then if you have specific questions this is the place to ask. You will get help. Good luck.
 
I have cast, turned down, applied the decal and recast in clear. It is time consuming and wastes a lot of material. You still need to seal the decal to the blank before recasting, so I figured it is just easier to do the CA.
 
Tim,

Here is how I do it, I have done well over 300 pens with water-slide decals.

Underturn the barrel 2 or 3 thousands to allow for the thickness of the CA and decal

Sand down to 12k MM

Apply 3 costs of CA thin and sand with 12k MM. This is to be sure the material is smooth. I have found that ANY rough surface will show thru the decal.

Apply the decal, making sure the edge is in contact with the surface all around the decal and no air bubbles under the decal.

Allow the decal to dry. I put them in my hotbox for a least a hour.

Apply 5 coats of CA thin and allow to fully cure.

Sand lightly with 12k MM

Look at the edge using a low-angle light, if you can see the edge, apply one or two coats of CA med, sand with 12k MM and look at the edge again. Repeat this process until the edge is gone.

After the edge is gone I apply 3 coats of CA med and polish.

Done!

This works for me, may not work for you.
 
I've done the turn small, apply decal, cast, then turn again. It works, but it's long and a pain in the butt turning it the second time. Larry's method is the way to go. I've not done anywhere near as many as he has, but those that I've done that way worked out fine.
 
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