Cast- In tube sealing?

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Wpixley

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I am new to pen turning, approx 3 months, and have decided to make some clear acrylic pen blanks as gifts for the upcoming holidays. Unfortunately, I can't seem to properly seal the stickers or labels to the tube. My first attempt failed as the sticker adhesive lifted during casting while subsequent attempts, 5 at this point, have failed after sealing with mod podge or clear lacquer. I have allowed the sealers to cure for a minimum of 24 hours but still get blistering or crinkling effects. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.:confused:
 
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Have researched issue at length on the forum, including the threads you provide, and don't see my particular issue covered.

Thanks for your response and time.
 
I am not sure if this gets to your question or not. When casting photographs, I print the photo on an avery mailing label, attach the label to the tube and spray with clearcote acrylic sealer. That has worked well for me. Here is a Robert E Lee pen that I made using this technique.

image.jpg
 
Multiple ?'s first.

1. what type of labels are you using(name brand and description)
2. what type of resin are you using to cast with?
3. what type of molds are you casting in?
4. Are you warming your resin and if so, to what temps?

this is not a question, but get rid of the modge pod for sealing. Put on some latex gloves and wipe on an even coat of Medium CA over the entire label and let it set up for several days.

BE PATIENT ALSO!!! But I am interested in knowing the answers to the above questions first.
 
Bill; I have used Tacky Glue to mount decals and stickers to wood and brass tubes. It gives you more time to reposition your subjects if you are not happy. First make sure you clean your tubes well as there is a film used when they are made. Let dry a day or two. Mount the tubes back on your lathe and apply several coats of thick CA. This has worked for me many times in the past. Jim S
 
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Cwalker935: Love the Robert E Lee pen! That's the results I am looking for so apparently doing something wrong.

seamu7227: I am using Avery Shipping labels and purchased my PR from Wood n Whimsies. It has no label so I can't determine a brand. I am using a silicone resin saver mold. I have heated the PR in microwave for about 5-10 seconds to help with bubbles but have not applied other heat methods.
Moved from the mod-podge to Deft clear lacquer spray this week which produced a blistering effect on the latest trial which is still curing. Plenty of patience just short on experience...
 
I have had the same problems. I'm now using nice Avery labels with colorblock and they stick very well. The other problem I has was the printing on the labels would bleed. After failing with Mod Podge and clear acrylic spray paint, I started using clear packing tape over the labels and that works pretty well for me.

Per other suggestions from earlier today, I'm going to try Mod Podge again, as my current bottle is probably ten years old - maybe fresh stuff would help.
 
....I use Krylon Crystal Clear Fusion and have not experienced any problem what so ever. I apply paper products w/Mod Podge directly to "usually"painted tubes and wood that has be sealed w/CA, go figure! YMMV, good luck and be well......Jan
 
I have done numberous pens with successful results using decal paper and Krylon clear spray from Walmart. After the decals are printed (in the upstairs office on a inkjet printer) they are dry by the time I take them to the garage. There I spray with a couple light coats. Let dry for at least 24 hrs. I put a plastic lid from tupperware over them to keep dust particles from adhering. Then casting in resin saver molds.. All the decals have been over acrylic blanks.
 
This is what works for me, I get good results with Krylon Workable Fixatif from hobby lobby, over my printed decals. I think the key to working with decals to make sure you give your ink and sealer enough time to dry. I usually give the ink 8 to 10 hours and then 2 light coats of sealer and at least 24 hours before casting but I'm sure there are others that get good results with less time. Then there are casting issues that will contribute to success. Go easy on the catalyst 2-3 drops per ounce, and watch your humidity the day of pouring. Good luck!
 
Did you say that you heat your pr in the micro wave? I wonder if that could be it? I fill a mason jar half of water in a microwave for about 45 seconds and then put the pr into a plastic cup that sets down in the mason jar. I then let that sit for about 5 minutes before adding the catalyst. I do not bother with heating if its hot outside.
 
Thanks to all for the recommendations. I have a number of different approaches to now try and find one which works for me. If others read and have additional suggestions please share as I will be trying them all.
 
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