Car Stereo problem

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workinforwood

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
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8,173
Location
Eaton Rapids, Michigan, USA.
My daughters car is a 99 Saturn SC2. She's been having a few problems and is having some panick attacks about it because she is a student without lots of money to do repairs. So, I had most of the day free today and traded vehicles with her to attempt some repairs. I replaced the wiper motor and now the wipers turn off when you want them too..omg, what a rediculous job that is! Stupid motor is between the windshield and the dash and I in a hole that is smaller than the motor, so now my hand looks like I just escaped some hand cuffs that were put on nice and tight..shades of "The Hitcher"!
Fixed her headlight..she hit a deer, so I repaired it with epoxy and some screws, looks and works good as new. Door wouldn't unlock, took it apart, lubed it up and it works now.
Stereo...now this is the biggest bugger I ever faced! I used to install car stereo's when I was a teenager, so I kinda know what I"m doing..pretty much the only thing I know about a car. The car had no stereo when she bought it. She bought a pioneer and her bf installed it. I see it is a 50x4...can't remember is that 50 watts total or 200watts total..and I mention this detail because maybe it is important, or maybe not. The problem..and this is the problem she's always had since day one over a couple years now. You get in the car, you turn it on and the stereo works great. You can drive all day, no problem. Night time rolls around, so you need some headlights. You turn on the headlights, the stereo no longer works! The lights in the stereo still work, the display, the station, the time, all that works, just no sound. I had a thought..like back in the day we'd install some big kickers and thumpers and so we would need a better power source than the radio fuse can offer. Perhaps at some point in time, someone added something else into the radio fuse supply and that isn't offering enough amps to run the sound. So, simple enough solution, I get some wire and I run the wire out the door and straight into the battery. That is guaranteed 100% power source. I fire up the radio, and it works perfect. I turn on the headlights..still works perfect, but no sound! :confused::confused::confused:
 
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One of my son's friends had the same problem. He brought it over and the 3 of us went to work. I finally figured out there were (are) two + power leads into the radio. Seems one is for 'memory functions' and the other to power the internal amp and radio. The original owner had tied the two power leads together but had a poor solder connection. A few seconds under my soldering iron fixed the problem! Maybe you have a similar situation?
 
If I remember correctly, been a while for me too, most modern units have two power leads. 1 is the main power lead that make the radio work, the second is the constant lead that lets the clock and memory function when th car is off. If the BF tapped into the headlights for one of the two, it could be the problem.
 
there are actually 2 powers, one is switched the other is constant. those sound right if you do not have to turn off the radio when you exit the car (to get it to turn off). There are also on some radios a wire that dims the radio with the lights being turned on. This is not a necessity so if you have one, cut it and tape it off and see if that helps. If you still have labels on the wires it should say something like illumination etc. There is also a wire on some that lead to an amp. This is the remote turn on lead. If you do not have an amp this should be disconnected too. This is typically (but not always) blue with a white stripe.
 
It sounds like someone tapped into the headlight fuse/line to give the radio power. Change the line to run directly to an empty spot on the fuse box and it should clear up. I have a serious system in my plow truck and the amp is running directly off the main battery, it works great except when the truck isn't used for a while it will run the battery down.
 
did they use a wiring harness adapter? Or just hack into the factory harness?

Here is my guess. Whoever hooked up the wiring harness miswired it. :biggrin:

Verify the correct wiring below. I'd pay special attention to the Dimmer/Illumination wires that are Brown/Gray respectively. I bet he got one of those wires mixed up with another wire for the head unit.

1999 SATURN SC2 2DR COUPE
SecurityBattery RED + RED + (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (2 CONST WIRES)Ignition PNK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter01 YEL + (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESSAllDoorTrigger WHT (-) (-) SMALL HARNESS BELOW ASHTRAYTrunkTrigger RED/BLK (-) (-) AT TRUNK LIGHTFactoryAlarmDisarm PNK YEL/BLK OPEN PNK WIRE AND GRD YEL/BLK SEE NOTE
ParkingLights BRN (+) (+) BEHIND FUSEBOX UNDER CONSOLE OR SWITCH
Remote StartBattery RED + RED + (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (2 CONST WIRES)Ignition PNK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESSIgnition02 BRN + (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS "2ND ACCIgnition03 +Accessory01 ORG + (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESSAccessory02 +
Starter01 YEL + (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESSAntiTheftSystem NONEKeySense LT.GRN (-) (-) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESSTach VIO/WHT (-) (-) AT MULTI COIL PACK OR BLK INJ WIRE 1 CYSpeedSense GRN 5000 (AC) ABOVE PEDAL OR BLU 32 PIN CONN POS D-6
ParkingLights BRN (+) (+) BEHIND FUSEBOX UNDER CONSOLE OR SWITCHBrakeLights LT.BLU (+) (+) AT BRAKE SWITCH
ReverseLights LT.GRN (+) (+) AT BACK UP LIGHT SWITCH
Horn BLK (-) AT STEERING COLUMN
Doorlocks / WindowPowerUnLock WHT (+) (+) POSITIVE TRIGGER OR DRIVERS KICK PANELPowerLock LT.BLU (+) (+) IN CENTER CONSOLE "BEHIND FUSEBOX"LeftFrontWindow01 LF:DK.BLURightFrontWindow01 RF:DK.BLU/WHT LR:DK.GRN RR:LT.GRNLeftRearWindow01 LF:BRNRightRearWindow01 RF:TAN LR:VIO RR:VIO/WHConvenienceHeadLights BLU (+) AT LIGHT SWITCHLowSpeedWipers DISARM: AT KEYLESS MOD. GROUND YEL/BLK(STRT.KILLTrunkRelease GRY (+) PASSENGERS REAR QUARTER BEHIND PANEL Mobile Audio / VideoBattery RED + RED + (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (2 CONST WIRES)Accessory01 ORG + (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESSGround BLK - (-) RADIO HARNESSIllumination GRY (+) RADIO HARNESSDimmer BRN (+) RADIO HARNESSFrontLeftSpeakerPos TANFrontLeftSpeakerNeg GRYFrontRightSpeakerPos LT.GRNFrontRightSpeakerNeg DARK GREENRearLeftSpeakerPos BRNRearLeftSpeakerNeg YELRearRightSpeakerPos DK.BLURearRightSpeakerNeg LT.BLUControl ModulesBEHIND PANEL ON DRIVERS SIDE REAR SEAT
 
Oh stop being such a tight a$$ Jeff !!!:mad: You've got buckets of cash so just buy her a new car:biggrin:
 
First off: I'm with Skippy. She's your daughter, she deserves better. You can give her better. :biggrin:





Okay, now that my daughter has left the room.......:rotfl:

Is there an alternate power source for the speaker system. Pioneer speakers sometimes have a sub-amp that requires its own power to drive the speakers.

My guess is you have two power leads and have only found (or changed) one.

Since the car did not have a radio originally, you may need to wire in a new circuit. You can buy a small fuse block from Radio Shack or Autozone and dedicate it to the radio.
 
By the way, the 50 x 4 means that it is 4 chanels of 50 watts each for a total of 200watts. What that means is that she will need at least 3000 more watts to hear her music when stopped at a light next to a car with some moron trying to get vibrations off his bas speakers to move the car. No wonder why all my kids can do when I say something is answer me with "what did you say? I didn't hear you."
 
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yea. UM.. there were 3 wiring harnesses all spliced up in a huge matted ball. I found a wiring diagram online that identified what wires from the car are what and which wires the radio wires are. I grabbed my scissors, I cut the wiring harness off the radio and off the car, took the huge mass of harnesses and tossed it on the floor. I stripped all the wires down and started to connect them. Then I had a problem. There's 2 dark green, 2 brown and no pink. One green and one brown are speaker wires but which ones? There's an extra wire left over too. I fiddled and fiddled for a couple hours. Now the radio doesn't work at all, the car won't start and it's on a tow truck heading for town!

Any of you guys want me to re-wire your car???
 
yea. UM.. there were 3 wiring harnesses all spliced up in a huge matted ball. I found a wiring diagram online that identified what wires from the car are what and which wires the radio wires are. I grabbed my scissors, I cut the wiring harness off the radio and off the car, took the huge mass of harnesses and tossed it on the floor. I stripped all the wires down and started to connect them. Then I had a problem. There's 2 dark green, 2 brown and no pink. One green and one brown are speaker wires but which ones? There's an extra wire left over too. I fiddled and fiddled for a couple hours. Now the radio doesn't work at all, the car won't start and it's on a tow truck heading for town!

Any of you guys want me to re-wire your car???
Have them tow it to me and I'll try it.
 
Jeff . I do this everyday for a living . If it's a power problem the Pioneer does have 2 power wires . The red wire is ignition and should go the the yellow wire in the cars radio harness the Yellow wire is constant and should go to the Orange wire in the cars radio harness and Black is ground and should go to the Black wire in the cars radio harness . The factory harness supplies more then enough power to run a stock Pioneer radio (oh and it's 50 X 4 = 200 watts peak!) .
Check and make sure that both these wires are getting power , Pioneer uses the Yellow wire to power the radios built in amp and memory functions .
You didn't say if you added any external amps to run the spkrs if you did make sure that the Blue with the white stripe (amp/ant trigger) from the radio is giving power to the amp to turn it on . Also make sure that the Amp has power and ground to the main power connections on the amp , there should be a Fuse or circuit breaker connected to the battery for the amp and ground should go to the body with as short a wire as possible .
If you have power at all these wires then stick a fork in it , the radio is toast . They are repairable but it is not cost effective to repair .
 
I was typing at the same time as you so didn't see your wiring job . Pioneer radios use a unprotected balanced bridged output IC for the built in amp . if you accidently shorted any of the spkr wires to ground or power the its time for a new radio , you almost never get a second chance to hook it up right .

Jeff PM sent
 
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yea. UM.. there were 3 wiring harnesses all spliced up in a huge matted ball. I found a wiring diagram online that identified what wires from the car are what and which wires the radio wires are. I grabbed my scissors, I cut the wiring harness off the radio and off the car, took the huge mass of harnesses and tossed it on the floor. I stripped all the wires down and started to connect them. Then I had a problem. There's 2 dark green, 2 brown and no pink. One green and one brown are speaker wires but which ones? There's an extra wire left over too. I fiddled and fiddled for a couple hours. Now the radio doesn't work at all, the car won't start and it's on a tow truck heading for town!

Reminds me of the good old days and why I got out of the car audio business.
 
It's amazing! I wired the stereo correctly and the car would not start due to coincidence. The mechanic figured out that if you punch the fuse box under the hood, the car fires right up..and that's someplace I never touched. There were some wires corroding at a connector into the under hood fuse box and so her replaced that and everything works. The radio even works with the headlights on now! I thought maybe I screwed up the security system wires when I tore out all the wiring from the dash, but there no..the car has no security system. All is good, other than the $300 it cost me to tow/repair the car of course.
 
Yes. Apparently, one of the diagnostic tests they do is to simply google the problem and see what the computer says. One of the answers google gives you is to punch the fuse box! I checked that out, and it was true. If punching the fuses fixes problem, it means you have some loose fuses or a rusty connector into the fuse box. Hey..it works in space...you've seen Armageddon.
 
When my truck gets back from the shop someday, I'll take some pictures of the results of the punches and kicks that wouldn't get my truck to start.
 
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