Cant keep Cherry from cracking

[jtalbert]

I have recently came by two large chunks of cherry. The logs were cut from a large farm in North Arkansas and most was sold, but the buyer did not take it all. I got some of the left over, and for the life of me every thing I try to do with this cracks. It starts out barely noticeable, but within two days a large crack appears.
I'm doing something wrong but dont know what.

 

[KenV]

1. Did you cut the pith out of the log?

2. Did you seal the endgrain?

3. Did you check to see if it was reaction wood (such as a branch that has been under stress)

4. Are you working with green wood and leaving it to dry?

These are the 4 most common problems.

 

[dubdrvrkev]

What type of blanks and how are you treating them? Are we talking pen blanks only? Are you sealing the end grain? In my experience, Cherry likes to warp and crack a lot. But normally with a coat of anchorseal it slows the drying enough it keeps movement to a minimum. For most woods, you really just need to slow the drying process down, or control it, to keep blanks in their best condition. There are a LOT of methods to doing this.

 

[Woodnknots]

When you say "it cracks" are you referring to before or after you turn it?
If it is still in log form, is it anchor sealed? Cherry logs will crack quite prolifically if exposed to direct sunlight on the log ends for long periods of time, no matter how much you anchor seal it.
If it is after you turn it, is the pith gone? That, and the closely surrounding area, is where most cracking originates. The pith is the weakest part of the tree.
I have not had very many problems at all with cherry, if handled correctly. this means cutting out the pith if you are going to store a bowl blank after cutting from the log, turning, the pith out of the blank if turned immediately after sawing out of the log... Pith, pith, pith. If you are making a vase and center turning, then you should probably try to stabilize the pith with CA when you are done hollowing, if possible. Sorry, it's late and I'm rambling. Hope I helped a little, at least!

 

[loglugger]

I think if these have been down for awhile with out the ends painted they might not stop cracking. Like KenV said cut the pith. You might try to boil them or a DA soak just a thought.
Bob

 

[Gary Max]

And then if it was cut this spring with the sap up---it's going to crack. You may have to kilm dry it.

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

Once it's cracked, it's cracked.

Cherry starts cracking within minutes of being cut. You won't see those hairline cracks until a day or two later when they start opening up.

When you cut cherry, or any fruit wood, anchorseal immediately.

 

[jtalbert]

Thanks so much for the reply's. The trees were cut in the spring along with several Black Walnut, and the logs that were left were not sealed. The pieces I have are about 14" in Dia. and the only part I have tried to use is the outside few inches, but it looks like that's not going to work either. Beautiful wood though, wish I could come up with something.
Thanks agin

James

 

[jrc]

When I get wood like that I cut them 3/4 X 3/4 and in long pieces, stack and let them dry for a few months and then cut them blank size and let them dry for a few more weeks. To check to see if there dry enought, drill one or two and wait a week and if the tube slides in easy they are dry enought to use. If there tight let them dry longer. I NEVER coat the ends, there will be a little checking on the ends of the long pieces, just trim it off. I have cut a few hundred blanks like this each year for the past 5 years.