Stabilization Can I harden driftwood without a pressure pot?

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BGrubb

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Irvine, Ca
I found a small board, about three-quarter inch thick that had been underwater for a very long time and then in the sun for years. I cut the board into a number of pen blanks and they look like they may be really interesting to turn.
However, they are as light as balsa wood and I am pretty sure they won't turn well. I don't own a pressure pot and I am not interested in getting into that just yet. Is there any "wood hardener" liquid or other method I could try to harden these blanks? If so, I would fill the deep cracks with CA glue and I think I may get some really interesting pens out of them.

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Thin CA can be used to harden small pieces. I would recommend carefully drilling, then soak the inside with thin CA till it stops absorbing. Run the drill into the hole again after the CA has set up and glue your tubes in. You can start by soaking the blank first and turning till you get past the CA or you can turn down partway and then soak it. Either way it usually takes multiple rounds of soaking and turning to get a complete hardened piece. Be careful if theres much moisture you can have the CA heat up and scorch the wood, go easy applying till you get a feel for how it will act.
 
I think there is some stuff called Penatrol. Never used it, but I don't think it requires pressure to penetrate the wood.
I think most of those cracks will be turned off by the time you get to needed diameter for your pens. You could drill through
the blanks to get better penetration also. Just an idea. Have fun!
 
You can turn with out stabilizing . I would soak the outside with thin ca, turn with sharp tools and light cuts- put a little more a and turn dome more. I have done this with old punky wood with no trouble - go easy and stay sharp.
 
"Minwax Wood Hardener" is what I have ordered now and should be here Monday to try out on some punky wood. I did a search on here several days ago and the MinWax was recommended by a couple turners who I feel know their stuff.
 
If you know someone who can stabilize it with Cactus Juice you'll find it works very well. I used CJ on some drift wood I collected in Hawaii and mailed it home, got it dried and then I stabilized it. Turned out great and was easy to turn and I had no problems with it.
 
I have used "Minwax Wood Hardener" in similar situations. . No guarantees, but here is my process.
When you buy the product, getting the screw-top can's lid off can be a challenge. . I get the salesman to loosen the lid before I buy.

If your blank is firm enough to turn round as it is, you can do the soaking right in the original can by suspending the blank from above.
The blank size will, of course, have to fit through the spout of the can (about 3/4"). . Be sure to have a way to remove the blank from the can !!
The blank will swell a little bit during the soaking.

1) Soak for 20 minutes (in a covered dish or tray ... this Minwax product will evaporate)
2) Let dry for 2 days
3) Turn round (oversize)
4) Drill to size (or slightly under) for desired tube; best to do this drilling on the lathe
5) Soak again
6) Let dry for 2 days
7) Re-drill to correct size
8) Glue in tube and Proceed carefully with making pen

During step (3) you should keep checking that the blank is firm enough to continue. . If not, repeat from step (1) until firm enough.
Be very careful with the turning and drilling at all stages. . Use sharp tools and drill bits.

The Minwax Wood Hardener will NOT fill the surface gaps shown in your picture.
 
I just wanted to add that, some people think that CA (super glue) all has the same viscosity and most of what we get in small bottles is medium to thick ca while the type of CA needed for these type of applications/soaking you require the thinnest CA you can get your hands on, the one I know works wonders is the E-Z thin (5 cups) red label, HOWEVER, I should also stress the fact that soaking wood with CA will create lost of fumes that are extremely toxic, CA application should be done in well-ventilated locations and using an appropriate chemical mask, the use of a fan blowing the fumes away will help immensely.

Cheers
George
 
I have used the minwax wood hardener and the parts it penetrated were definitely hardened but it is a penetration issue so if you go down that route I would follow mags instructions. Except I would drill a 1/4 inch hole in the middle slide it on a pen mandrel a turn it down to size plus maybe 1/8 inch or so. Then stabilize, dry, drill, and so on.
For me personally I would drill and stabilize from the inside as Keith mentioned. George also talked about all CA is not the same I would add to that all thin CA is not the same. I have found for me if penetration is what I am after the original formula stickfast thin CA is the best. Not the thin wood finish formula. The process that works best for me is I use masking tape to seal the hole at one end of the tube. Then fill about 1/3 to 1/2 full with thin CA. Tape of the other end sealing the blank. Then roll it around on my bench for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove tape discard and remaining CA. Lastly dry without accelerator preferably with a small fan blowing into the hole for at least 12 hours.
Best of luck let us know how it goes. 🤞
 
I think there is some stuff called Penatrol. Never used it, but I don't think it requires pressure to penetrate the wood.
I think most of those cracks will be turned off by the time you get to needed diameter for your pens. You could drill through
the blanks to get better penetration also. Just an idea. Have fun!
 
Just for info, in the pharmacy we have lots of wide necked plastic containers which have to be recycled . I find thses just the right size for soaking wood in and they sometimes have screw tops, some times click type ( care when releasing these 🤦‍♂️ , just don't ask !). the one below was actually for tennis balls but shows the point.DED109C8-8F83-41D5-94CB-EBD1DC97588C.jpeg
 
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