Cactus Juice question

[NotURMailman]

I am getting ready to order a Cactus Juice stabilization setup (once the funds are released by She Who Must Be Kept Happy... LOL!). I have a few questions first (having never stabilized a blank or turned a stabilized blank).

If using Cactus Juice to stabilize "wormy" wood wil it fill the worm holes with a nice clear material, leaving the look of the worm hole intact?

If using the dye that he sells on his site, will the wood itself become dyed or just the gaps that are filled with the casting material?

It looked like from watching the videos that the left over resin can be reused after it is poured out of the vacuum chamber. Is that correct?

Do oily woods need to be cleaned with accetone or DNA before stabilization?

I think that's it for now, thank you!

 

[Jim Burr]

I am getting ready to order a Cactus Juice stabilization setup (once the funds are released by She Who Must Be Kept Happy... LOL!). I have a few questions first (having never stabilized a blank or turned a stabilized blank).

You should direct these questions to Curtis...he's great about calling back. But...since I stabilize a lot...

If using Cactus Juice to stabilize "wormy" wood wil it fill the worm holes with a nice clear material, leaving the look of the worm hole intact? Yes...it doesn't fill, it stabilizes. It will fill very small openings

If using the dye that he sells on his site, will the wood itself become dyed or just the gaps that are filled with the casting material? All the way through, or the depth of the penetration

It looked like from watching the videos that the left over resin can be reused after it is poured out of the vacuum chamber. Is that correct? If stored properly...it sure can

Do oily woods need to be cleaned with accetone or DNA before stabilization?
If it's that oily, does it need to be stabilized?

I think that's it for now, thank you!

 

[Monty]

I am getting ready to order a Cactus Juice stabilization setup (once the funds are released by She Who Must Be Kept Happy... LOL!). I have a few questions first (having never stabilized a blank or turned a stabilized blank).

If using Cactus Juice to stabilize "wormy" wood wil it fill the worm holes with a nice clear material, leaving the look of the worm hole intact?
In a word, No. Small holes maybe, large ones definitely no.

If using the dye that he sells on his site, will the wood itself become dyed or just the gaps that are filled with the casting material?
Only the wood, and then maybe not completely. See this earlier post of mine. I have some maple that has streaks running through it where no dye was absorbed, but the area around it is colored.

It looked like from watching the videos that the left over resin can be reused after it is poured out of the vacuum chamber. Is that correct?
That is correct, but it will become slightly darker after each use. After I use it several times, than I use it with dyes to color the wood.

Do oily woods need to be cleaned with accetone or DNA before stabilization?
I believe most oily woods would not be good candidates for stabilizing as they are usually hard enough already.

I think that's it for now, thank you!

Answers in red.

 

[NotURMailman]

I am getting ready to order a Cactus Juice stabilization setup (once the funds are released by She Who Must Be Kept Happy... LOL!). I have a few questions first (having never stabilized a blank or turned a stabilized blank).

If using Cactus Juice to stabilize "wormy" wood wil it fill the worm holes with a nice clear material, leaving the look of the worm hole intact?
In a word, No. Small holes maybe, large ones definitely no.

If using the dye that he sells on his site, will the wood itself become dyed or just the gaps that are filled with the casting material?
Only the wood, and then maybe not completely. See this earlier post of mine. I have some maple that has streaks running through it where no dye was absorbed, but the area around it is colored.
Streaks of color is actually what I was hoping would happen!

It looked like from watching the videos that the left over resin can be reused after it is poured out of the vacuum chamber. Is that correct?
That is correct, but it will become slightly darker after each use. After I use it several times, than I use it with dyes to color the wood.
Thanks for the tip!

Do oily woods need to be cleaned with accetone or DNA before stabilization?
I believe most oily woods would not be good candidates for stabilizing as they are usually hard enough already.

I think that's it for now, thank you!

Answers in red.

Thanks you both!

 

[NotURMailman]

So if I want to fill larger holes i will be looking to add a pressure pot and some PR? (after I get the CJ set up)

Will dye used in PR stay out of the wood completely? (It looked like it in the "worthless wood" article in the library.)

 

[NotURMailman]

Oh, and; also...

The reason I was considerig stabilizing oily woods is because I I found I like the look of some of the woods a lot when I cross cut the blanks, but this makes them prone to tear out and cracking (especially when very thin like on 7mm pens). Am I on the wrong track here thinking that stabilizing would help prevent this?

 

[Monty]

Oh, and; also...

The reason I was considerig stabilizing oily woods is because I I found I like the look of some of the woods a lot when I cross cut the blanks, but this makes them prone to tear out and cracking (especially when very thin like on 7mm pens). Am I on the wrong track here thinking that stabilizing would help prevent this?

I would suggest you PM Chris, HeartofaPen about crosscut wood.
He has done stabilization on crosscut wood, but IIRC, it takes several times.