CA finish question

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Coop

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Mar 13, 2007
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Brazil, Indiana, USA.
I just posted to Coops photo album a slimline pen with a body of Cedar. I have to redo this finish. I have been placing on CA finishes only a short time for this pen turner. Note in this photo I always seem to get a white area near the center bushings area. Take a look and let me know how I can not repete the mistake. I think I may be knocking off or disturbing the CA finish when I take the tubes of the mandrel. Sometimes I get them and sometimes I do not.CA sticking to bushing I think. Look at upper tube at the ring..I'm sure I not the only one this has happen too...HELP! Coop

200752821505_cederpen.jpg
 
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Coop,

Most certain way to eliminate sticking to bushings, run an "Exacto" knife around the joint before removing from the mandrel.

From the pic, it also looks like you MAY not have sanded real close to the bushing, looks like a "bump" just above the centerband.

I am NOT an expert, just making my CA finish come to life, also.
 
coop,

i agree with ed. it looks like you may not have sanded enough near the bushings. try a little more sanding and see what happens.
 
To Ed & Andrew, Thanks for your replies. Sometimes my old brain is not running on the right track. That Exacto is a GOOD idea! I will resand and refinish the upper tube. Tho not a real good photo, I think what the bump is; a raised part of the CA finish where I had to break-away the bushing. This is my second CA finished pen and only my 36th pen total. Trying to get away from the friction finish. I started with 12oo grit ad two coats of thin CA then 5 coats Med. and used OOOO steelwool then 1 fine coat and a spray of E. Let it all dry good. Then 4 more coats of Medium CA and speed up the lathe a bit and MM to 2400 grit then 2 more coats and 1 of thin on top and buffed..So thanks guys for all your help!
,Coop
 
IMO, that's a LOT more CA than I use.

3 coats of medium with sanding to 1000 grit between them, then a final MM - NOT world-class, but a nice finish.
 
again, i agree with ed, that's way more CA than you should need (unless you really want that much) especially if you're using medium. i use only thin CA and usually use between 3 and 6 coats depending on the wood type. usually 6 with sanding to smooth after 3. if you MM all the way to 12000, you'll get a nice looking gloss before buffing also.

i think with all that CA, you'll have a MUCH harder time getting the bushings free of the blanks and will probably increase your chances at having some chips leave the pen and stay on the bushings, like you described.

all i usually have to do after done finishing is tap the bushings with a small hammer as i remove it from the mandrel and they almost always just pop off without taking any chips or anything. exacto knife comes out when the finish is a little thicker and the hammer won't work.

p.s. - normally, a CA finish can be applied and finished in 1 hr or less.
 
I agree.
Way too many coats of CA.

Have you watched the video on BLO/CA finishing? Check in the Library of this site.

Are you using boiled linseed oil along with the CA? I find that the BLO/CA method gives a nice finish because the BLO facilitates the CA flowing all over the wood evenly. I don't know about the chemistry but it seems to help for me.

Usually, a CA finish takes me about ten minutes. Not bragging or anything - that's just what it takes me. Others may get a better finish and maybe it's because they spend a lot more time on it than I do.

Additionally, I'm getting to be a BIG fan of lacquer dipping. On a pen like this one, thread the bushings and penparts on a threaded rod, screw on wing nuts top and bottom and then dip it in a can of lacquer. Stick the end of the threaded rod in a hole drilled in scrap wood. Let it sit for two hours and dip again. Dip a third time after another 2 hour delay and you have a durable high gloss shine. I use Deft glossy brushing lacquer straight out of the can.

If youy have beads and coves, lacquer dipping may not work as well, but for this kind of pen it's great.

Julia
 
I am working out my own finish, like many, and have had bad luck with the BLO and yes I have seen the film footage. But will admit I have placed way to many coats on the pen. My thanks again to all for your comments. I sure do want you all to feel you have help, for you have. Everyone is so nice here at IPA. I have enough information to redo the upper pen. If I can get the Gloss to match the lower half without so may coats of CA, that will be great. Plus Ed's exacto idea to try as well. ,Coop
 
The chipping thing is just going to happen sometimes. It happened to me tonight - evn though I cut around the bushing like I was supposed to. Ugh!

Keep up the good work. It does look good!

Julia
 
Also, remember that any finish is ONLY as good as the finish of the wood to which it is applied. Sand till you are satisfied with the woods finish, then apply the CA, let it cure very well, and re-sand with MM. [:D]
 
One other trick I learned this past weekend after twice getting a pen finish ruined because of CA sticking to the bushing is that as you after you've applied the medium CA and are buffing with the rag buf with your left hand and then use an exacto in your right hand to separate the CA from the bushing. If you're moderately dexterous you can do it and not have it harm the finish and the bushings don't stick as badly that way.
 
You could just get some delrin bushings from James Man or make them yourself. CA does not stick to delrin. I purchased a bunch of them from fangar (James Mann) and turned them dowm to the bushing size. When I get to the CA stage, I just switch to the delrin bushings I made.
 
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